Possible wheel bearing = noise

[Steve55]

Just acquired a 2001 V70 XC and would appreciate any help.

I get a rpm type noise, sounds like from the right rear after about 45 miles per hour. When I say rpm like I mean it sounds like a small muffled motor, it does not go up and down with the engine speed. At freeway speed, when I turn the wheel to the right it diminishes, with the wheel straight or to the left I hear it.

Does it sound like a wheel bearing and is there any way to inspect which one? I understand the bearings are sealed inside the wheel hub. Many thanks for any help.

[Xheart]

There is no way to accurately isolate. Equipment wear, replace both front hub assembly and go from there.

[Steve F]

Xheart is right, it's very difficult to determine which is the bad one manually. I had one go on mine, it annoyed me for months. I was finally able to get my mechanic friend to ride in back and listen to which side it was coming from. From your description, I'm pretty sure it's the right side. When you turn left you're loading that bearing and it makes more noise, turning right unloads it. That's exactly how mine reacted. You'll know when you get it off, it will feel gritty inside and you might even see rust coming from under the seal.

I replaced mine and about a year later the other side went. I kind of fumbled my way through the first one, the second I pretty much knew what I was doing and it took about an hour, replacing the brake pads at the same time. A tip: It isn't necessary to remove the E-brake shoes from the hub, you can get the bearing off and back on by moving the tension springs a little with a screwdriver. Made that mistake on the first one. Good luck!

[Mario1975]

I replaced my left front bearing last friday. I was able to identify which one was defect because the sound was heavier when i turned the steering to the right so the weight of the vehicule was transfert on the left wheel. When I replaced my steering back to the middle position, the noise was still there but was more subtle.

[sjonnie]

Does it sound like a wheel bearing and is there any way to inspect which one?
An electronic microphone can tell you, but it's irrelevant, if one is gone the other is likely to be on its way out. Replace them both and you'll be good for the next 100k miles. I'd recommend getting the Volvo wheel bearing kit as opposed to just a bare hub, come with replacement bolts, dust shield and grease to prolong the life of the hub. Should last 100k+ miles if installed correctly.

[Mario1975]

I didn't replace both in my case as it is not like struts/shocks. It is not mandatory but as some said, maybe the other one is in the end of its life. But I agree, you cant save to buy cheap one as they wont last. You'll need to do the job again in short term. OEM or FAG are recommended. OEM come with everything you need. Don't reuse old bolts. Trow them as soon as you remove them.

http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j324/oceanicworldwide/bearing/IMG_8157_zpsf1685caa.jpg

[Xheart]

...
Don't reuse old bolts. Trow them as soon as you remove them.

Like the photo, it has "ready-to-install-me" to it.
What is the socket size on the new bolts, is it same as the ones you removed?

[Steve55]

Thanks everyone for the great replies. Very helpful and much appreciated.

[Mario1975]

Like the photo, it has "ready-to-install-me" to it.
What is the socket size on the new bolts, is it same as the ones you removed?

Yes they were the same size. Maybe because the old one was the original that came with the car and I replace it with an OEM. I can't talk for aftermarket bolt size though

[MrDOS]

I had a similar issue with my 2001 XC 70. Mechanic says left wheel bearing - $400 parts & labor to replace. Is this a reasonable rate?
Thanks!

[Xheart]

I had a similar issue with my 2001 XC 70. Mechanic says left wheel bearing - $400 parts & labor to replace. Is this a reasonable rate?
Thanks!

Aftermarket part are not recommended. Volvo part <$200, add labor.

[billr99]

Aftermarket part are not recommended. Volvo part <$200, add labor.

OEM bearings are usually FAGs, at least they were on my '02. You don't need to go to the dealer to buy FAGs and online they are 50% cheaper than the dealer price. Personally, I've used FAGs and GMBs on a number of cars (Volvos and VWs mostly) and haven't had issues with either, even after putting major clicks on them.

Cheers,

Bill

[MrDOS]

Thanks for the replies, folks! My Indy shop only uses expensive parts; but I am happy driving with quiet again (with $380 less in my pocket :) )