Replacing rear shocks/springs this weekend, any tips?

[StuntmanMike]

I have what I think is a broken rear spring, so I ordered new springs, shocks, and end links for the back from FCP. I figured I might as well do everything while I'm in there.

Any tips on the install?

Thanks!

[sjonnie]

I have what I think is a broken rear spring, so I ordered new springs, shocks, and end links for the back from FCP. I figured I might as well do everything while I'm in there.

Any tips on the install?

Thanks!

Here's (http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/how-to/pdf/replacing-rear-shock.pdf) the howto.

You need to figure out how you're going to tighten the upper shock nut, Volvo has a specific set of tools (http://www.myswedishparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=AccessoryCatalog&catalogid=1051&siteid=213784&categoryID=159756) but it can be done with a socket held in a vice grip with a torx bit going through the middle or presumably a large enough box wrench, I don't remember the size. Other people have used a impact wrench in which case the counter hold is not needed.

Use a jack to push down the lower control arm. I put a small bottle jack between the bump stop and the control arm, worked great. Other people have put a tension strap between the control arms to stop it springing up on removal of the spring.

[winsotaxc]

The scissor jack that comes with the car works great for moving the control arm. There is a picture, I think in the files section of this site, that shows it. If not this site, then Howards site has a pretty good write up. Sorry I don't have time to find it right now.

Wade

[passleft]

The scissor jack that comes with the car works great for moving the control arm. There is a picture, I think in the files section of this site, that shows it. If not this site, then Howards site has a pretty good write up. Sorry I don't have time to find it right now.

Wade

This technique works great, but be careful what part you're applying the pressure on. I had trouble getting the shock off the pin and was getting frustrated; I acccidentally put the jack on the control arm and bent the heck out of it!

FYI, if the shock sticks on the pin use a heavy duty ratchet strap to the front of the car to pull it off...

[StuntmanMike]

I worked on this last Sunday and got the broken side fixed. It was definitely a broken coil, the small loop that sits on the perch on the shock broke.

I wanted to do both sides, but I only got to the one. I had a hard time getting the old one out, the broken spring was wedged in there good and it took a lot of prying from different angles to finally get it out.

Then of course I put the strut assembly back together incorrectly, so I had to disassemble and do it again. As I was doing this my aunt pulled up in front of the house with a flat tire that I changed for her. This led up to me finishing up a little to late to get the other side done without running out of daylight.

A few comments:

Air tools are awesome! I had no problem with the top nut as I was using an impact, but I can see how it would be a PITA w/out it. Also, with the impact it took literally ten seconds to remove the sway bar link.

I only jacked up one side to do this. I had seen it written that both sides needed to be in the air, but I did fine with the one wheel still on the ground. Probably the fact that I disco'd the swaybar first helped. I did it because I was replacing the link, but disco'ing it is quicker than jacking up the other side. (this is an offroader's trick, btw. Disco'ing the swaybar makes for more suspension travel. I did this on my Jeep all the time)

The jack tip is spot on. I DID initially have trouble with it, but once I repositioned the jack I was able to get enough droop to install the strut.

I had no problem getting the shock off the post. I popped it right off with a pry bar. No ratchet straps necessary.

One thing I noticed though after re-reading the Volvo instructions was that I seemed to have installed the coil backwards. It states the upper ends of the coil needs to be facing the inside of the car, of course mine ended up the opposite way.

It sits level and rides fine with no noises, so I don't know if this is worth worrying about.

All in all not too bad, now that Ik now the trick the other side should be cake. The car seems to ride a bit tighter in the rear too, even with just one new shock.

I'm going to order new shocks/springs/mounts for the front, as well as front wheel bearings, and take a weekend soon to do everything, as well as a tranny fluid change.

[Mario1975]

I'll have to do the rear shocks soon. I plan to use a crowfoot socket for the top mount screw. Anyone tried this? It will let the space for the counter hold torx bit to do its job. Thanks for the other advise, they will be helpful!

6058

[Astro14]

Don't think a crowfoot will fit. I think I used an offset box end wrench. I've done this in both P2 cars...but it's been a while...

Something like these: http://www.stanleysupplyservices.com/facom-mod-55-1-offset-ring-wrench-set-metric/p/456-715

Very useful set...

[StuntmanMike]

Yeah I don't see the crowfoot working either.

I saw in one writeup that someone used a pipe wrench on a spark plug socket to do it. Not using a ratchet on the socket allows the torx bit to fit through the top of the socket.

[Mario1975]

A spark plug socket is very long. You'll need a very long torx bit. Mine aren't. Maybe the trick with a regular socket, a vise grip and a torx bit is the best.

[Waterdog]

The offset wrench approach worked very nicely on my V70, on which I changed the rear shocks this past weekend. You can get a set that will work just fine at Autozone, or probably Sears. You can also get very pricey sets that are probably better, but not needed for this project.

FWIW, on the V70, the rear shock changeout is very easy, since you can jack up the car, take off the wheel, then jack up where the control arm attaches the knuckle - and the shock drops out the bottom. installation is the reverse. Takes all of 10 minutes (per side) working carefully.