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XCHauler
11-01-2013, 03:19 PM
I have had drivability problems with my 2001 XC for a couple of years now and I finally found the problem. I have replaced a fair amount of engine parts trying to fix this issue and saw the problem when I was cleaning my ETM last weekend. The problem was a large gash in my IPD silicone turbo coupler hose that connects to the top of the turbocharger. I installed the IPD hoses a few ago and used the original OEM clamps. The slash in the hose was hidden by the clamp so I had no reason to suspect any problems with it. I brought my XC into a shop that specializes in European cars (Audi, Mercedes, BMW and Volvo's) and they found numerous vacuum leaks. I proceeded to replace my PVC system, the turbo hose from the intercooler. the hose from the intercooler that connects to the ETM, Turbo Control Valve, IAR sensor, turbo boost sensor, MAF, replaced all turbo lines with blue silicone IPD lines, brake booster, all ignition coils and spark plugs (twice), and the gas cap. The drivability problems that I was experiencing included, rough and erratic idle, rough acceleration that was quite variable, lack of horsepower, and poor shifting with the transmission.

MY XC is running much better and I hope the gas mileage will improve as well. I installed a new IPD Turbo coupler hose and noticed that they must have changed the design from a few years ago because this hose was relatively easy to install, whereas the first one was a real pain! I also installed new IPD hose clamps which are very high quality and recommended!

I have attached an image of the old turbo hose.

XCHAULER

guyeye
11-02-2013, 07:05 AM
That'll do it!
Be sure to reset your ECM now that everything is sorted. It has probably been trying (unsuccessfully) to compensate for this for a while and learning some bad habits. Disconnect the battery (properly!) and touch the + & - cables together for 30 sec. or so. Then do 3 of full throttle 3rd gear (geartronic mode) pulls (carefully!) this should teach the ECM to control fuel ratios and TCV values properly again.
All my problems have come from bad or disconnected hoses & pipes. I'm switching to T-bar clamps when I get a chance.

men2be
11-02-2013, 05:19 PM
Guy,
Would you explain further on the reset? I do not understand the 3rd gear pull.
Thanks!

guyeye
11-02-2013, 09:02 PM
Guy,
Would you explain further on the reset? I do not understand the 3rd gear pull.
Thanks!

This relates mainly to the way your ecu communicates with your tcv. I don't know how long you've been dealing with this problem, but if it's been a while, your ECU has probably been learning some bad habits in controlling your turbocharger's boost levels. To reset your ECU and re-adapt your tcv, follow the instructions I copied from my HD-TCV instructions (doesn't matter that it's for an HD-TCV). You can touch the battery cables together to reset the ECU, or follow the much easier "fuse pull" method outlined below. Just make sure you're pulling the right ones. Your ECU would eventually re-learn everything, but this adapts it immediately. And it's easy!

BECAUSE THIS HEAVY-DUTY TCV HAS A SOLENOID WATTAGE VERY SIMILAR TO THE OEM VALVE, THE DUTY-CYCLE COMPENSATION IS EXTREMELY QUICK. TO MAKE THE ADAPTATION ALMOST INSTANT, YOU MAY PULL YOUR ECU FUSES (Fuses #6 & #23 for 2004-2005 Models and Fuses #12 & #19 for 2006-2007 Models of the R-series) BEFORE PERFORMING THIS SIMPLE PROCEDURE.
1. WAIT FOR THE CAR TO REACH ITS OPTIMUM OPERATING TEMPERATURE
2. FROM A STOP, ACCELERATE LIGHTLY TO 30mph. ONCE 30mph HAS BEEN REACHED, SHIFT INTO 3rd
GEAR AND APPLY WIDE-OPEN-THROTTLE FOR A PERIOD OF 5 SECONDS AND IMMEDIATELY DECELERATE SAFELY TO A STOP BEFORE PERFORMING THE SAME PROCEDURE AGAIN 1-2 MORE TIMES. BOOST LEVELS WILL BE FULLY RESTORED AFTER 3 PULLS.

Can't hurt.

men2be
11-03-2013, 03:57 PM
Guy, Thanks for the reply. When you do the light acceleration, are you in Drive??


This relates mainly to the way your ecu communicates with your tcv. I don't know how long you've been dealing with this problem, but if it's been a while, your ECU has probably been learning some bad habits in controlling your turbocharger's boost levels. To reset your ECU and re-adapt your tcv, follow the instructions I copied from my HD-TCV instructions (doesn't matter that it's for an HD-TCV). You can touch the battery cables together to reset the ECU, or follow the much easier "fuse pull" method outlined below. Just make sure you're pulling the right ones. Your ECU would eventually re-learn everything, but this adapts it immediately. And it's easy!

BECAUSE THIS HEAVY-DUTY TCV HAS A SOLENOID WATTAGE VERY SIMILAR TO THE OEM VALVE, THE DUTY-CYCLE COMPENSATION IS EXTREMELY QUICK. TO MAKE THE ADAPTATION ALMOST INSTANT, YOU MAY PULL YOUR ECU FUSES (Fuses #6 & #23 for 2004-2005 Models and Fuses #12 & #19 for 2006-2007 Models of the R-series) BEFORE PERFORMING THIS SIMPLE PROCEDURE.
1. WAIT FOR THE CAR TO REACH ITS OPTIMUM OPERATING TEMPERATURE
2. FROM A STOP, ACCELERATE LIGHTLY TO 30mph. ONCE 30mph HAS BEEN REACHED, SHIFT INTO 3rd
GEAR AND APPLY WIDE-OPEN-THROTTLE FOR A PERIOD OF 5 SECONDS AND IMMEDIATELY DECELERATE SAFELY TO A STOP BEFORE PERFORMING THE SAME PROCEDURE AGAIN 1-2 MORE TIMES. BOOST LEVELS WILL BE FULLY RESTORED AFTER 3 PULLS.

Can't hurt.

guyeye
11-03-2013, 04:08 PM
Geartronic Manual Mode- Not "drive".
Lightly accelerate thru 1st & 2nd gear. When you reach 30mph in 2nd gear, bump it into third gear and pedal to the metal for at least 5 full seconds. Please make sure you're on a safe, empty road. I like to do it on a stretch of 2 lane highway with a big shoulder.

men2be
11-03-2013, 04:22 PM
Many thanks for the help!!

XCHauler
11-04-2013, 06:14 AM
Guy I did disconnect the negative cable for about 10 minutes to help reset the ECU, but I will give this effort a try today and let you know the results.

XCHAULER