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View Full Version : Banjo bolt on 2001 XC PCV system



nickbw
10-06-2013, 10:16 AM
I am ready to remove the inlet manifold and so far I have found everything easy, but I am wondering what tool those of you have done the pcv overhaul used? The bolt is horribly shallow and ideally would be reached from below but really do not want to remove the air-con pump! Has anyone replaced the alternator pulley as a precaution - like the tensioner pullies for cam and serpentine belts?

howardc64
10-06-2013, 10:26 AM
I found removing it wasn't difficult as you just need to get a wrench on the bolt. I believe I went in from underneath the intake manifold. I think you can loosen the manifold bolt so you have a little more room to work with when the manifold becomes free.

Putting it back is much harder because it needs to line up perfectly to thread it in. The trick I used to put it back without touching alternator/AC pump is

- Leave the big L shaped hose's connection to the oil trap off while connecting the banjo bolt.
- After the banjo bolt is threaded on, then connect the oil trap connection

sjonnie
10-09-2013, 09:04 AM
Has anyone replaced the alternator pulley as a precaution - like the tensioner pullies for cam and serpentine belts?
Removing the alternator is hardly difficult, save yourself some time and bother and pull it out.

howardc64
10-09-2013, 10:49 AM
Removing the alternator is hardly difficult, save yourself some time and bother and pull it out.

I recall there were 2? bolts that need to be pulled off the AC pump to get the bottom of the alternator bracket out. The bolts are recessed back a ways and can't get a visual on the bottom one so have to have faith you are removing the right bolt. The diagrams on Volvo's directions weren't very clear.

Perhaps removing the AC pump bolts from bottom might be easier?

Anyway, attaching the oil trap connection last allows the banjo bolt to thread into the manifold pretty easily so I've bypassed messing with serpentine belt, alternator, AC pump since the first PCV job.

swimNdrive
10-09-2013, 11:15 AM
I recall there were 2? bolts that need to be pulled of the AC pump to get the bottom of the alternator bracket out. The bolts are recessed back a ways and can't get a visual on the bottom one so have to have faith you are removing the right bolt. The diagrams on Volvo's directions weren't very clear.

Perhaps removing the AC pump bolts from bottom might be easier?

Anyway, attaching the oil trap connection last allows the banjo bolt to thread into the manifold pretty easily so I've bypassed messing with serpentine belt, alternator, AC pump since the first PCV job.

I did this a year ago for my 01 which was totaled two months ago. I used Howard's method and worked out just fine. Since I had alternator and starter issue before, while I was there, I cleaned up all the electrical connectors and secured them. Clean up all the pipes and hosts. It was very oily down there, so I had done a lots of cleaning in the area as well. After it was all done, the car was dry and no more oil leak. The car ran a lot more responsive too. This was a job I think I would have to it myself, because I was not sure if I let others to do it, they would take care all the details that need to be taken care of while doing it.

nickbw
10-10-2013, 01:41 AM
Thanks to all contributors for helpful suggestions. I was trying to undo the banjo bolt purely by feel and made the mistaken assumption the bolt is in a horizontal plane. Having removed the PAS pump (without undooing either line) and the alternator, I managed to view enough from above to see that the bolt is at an angle. I was still not keen to use a 12mm ring spanner, which seems a poor fit, but as it is taking ages for the six point socket I ordered to arrive impatience got the better of me! I figured it is low torque so worth a try and sure enough it came out fine. Moving on, my other query referenced the fact the pully on the alternator is free wheeling veriety and it is recommended to be changed at cambelt change intervals. As changing the belts is more about the failure of bearings in pullies and tensioners than outright belt failure, I figure this makes good sense as the alternator failing on the pully would likely have a devastating effect.