2001 Valve Body Replacement

[joevolvo]

Hello,
I own a 2001 XC-70 and have been experiencing shifting flare into second and third gear for about two years as well as harsh shifting into reverse. The problem is much worse during the summer months and is almost unnoticeable during the winter. I rarely drive this car so replacing the transmission has not been a high priority.
Thanks to this forum, I found the issue may not be the transmission but instead a valve body. I thought the investment in a new valve body would be worth a shot rather than throw thousands into a new transmission.
I found astro-14’s how-go guide in the resource section (which is awesome by the way) and replaced the valve body yesterday. I’m not done yet as ill likely have to replace it again. On a gamble I bought a remanufactured valve body from amazon for cheap. It turns out my ‘new’ valve body is for a late model transmission (‘B’ casting stamp) while the valve body I pulled from the car is an early model (no casting stamp).
Another difference, or at least another obvious one, is that the solenoids are spun around and the plastic electrical connectors attached to the solenoids are on opposite sides on each valve body. Therefore, in order to make the electrical connectors reach (old connectors faced the top new connectors faced the bottom) I had to use the solenoids from my original valve body. After some more reading last night I learned these very solenoids may be the reason why the valve body was bad in the first place.
I drove the car around today a saw little to no difference in the drivability. Oh well, its back on the lift for me.
Lesson: Don’t rush this replacement. As astro-14 said you WILL need the cast numbers from your original valve body before getting a new one.
Question: Is the software reset needed to notice a shifting difference after the valve body replacement? I planned on getting the software reset tomorrow to further test the new valve body but if my current valve body is wrong altogether is this test even worth it?
Thanks!

[Astro14]

I worry that two years (how many miles?) may have been too long to live with the poor shifts...but you won't know until the right body is installed and adapted. FWIW, my XC has 173,000 on it now, and that's about 60,000 on the new body. It shifts perfectly.

Yes, the adaptation cycle must be run in order to realize any benefit. The TCU can time/schedule shifts over a fairly wide range...it doesn't know where to start in that range until the adaptation cycle has been run, it just keeps using the old values...

So, get the dealer to put it in adapt mode and run through the cycle described (which I got from the dealer printing out the directions on VIDA, by the way) and then see where you are.

[joevolvo]

I worry that two years (how many miles?) may have been too long to live with the poor shifts...but you won't know until the right body is installed and adapted. FWIW, my XC has 173,000 on it now, and that's about 60,000 on the new body. It shifts perfectly.

Yes, the adaptation cycle must be run in order to realize any benefit. The TCU can time/schedule shifts over a fairly wide range...it doesn't know where to start in that range until the adaptation cycle has been run, it just keeps using the old values...

So, get the dealer to put it in adapt mode and run through the cycle described (which I got from the dealer printing out the directions on VIDA, by the way) and then see where you are.


Thank you Astro14 (and sorry for mistyping your username earlier), I was hoping to catch a response from you. :)

Two years is a long time and I hate I let it go so long. We got a quote from the dealer early on to replace the transmission and the cost wasn't worth it for a car this age. The good thing is that the mileage should be pretty low over that two year period as I rarely drive this car. Even when I do drive it, I drive it pretty gingerly and feather the car into each gear. I was also hoping that since the car drives fine in the winter it would mean that the transmissions internals were fine.

My plan is to call Transtar tomorrow since they rebuild these valve bodies and see if they can tell me the differences in between my original valve body and the remanufactured one I installed. I'll also going to see if the valve body I installed can be adapted in any way.

Lastly, I'll swing by the local Volvo repair shop and have them put the car in adapt mode. I'll report back on my findings.

Thanks again Astro14 and thanks for the detailed doc you uploaded. Having access to community resources such as this forum is the only way I get away with my repair jobs. :)

[Astro14]

You're welcome. I have learned far more from this forum than I have contributed, so I was glad to take the pictures and write up that particular repair.

Good luck!

Cheers,
Astro

[joevolvo]

More info I found today from the dealer, Transtar and Valve Body Express.

The valve bodies for these cars, no casting stamp, "A" and "B" are somewhat interchangeable. The differences are as follows:

- no casting and "A" casting (early model)
----- the solenoid electrical connectors are rotated to the top.

- "B" casting (late model)
----- the solenoid electrical connectors are rotated downwards. This necessitates a longer wire harness which I was told by VBX that one exists but I could not find it.
----- there may be a spring under the B5 control valve which if so, would need to be removed to be compatible with the early model valve bodies.


I would like to use a wire harness from a 2003 or newer XC70 and stick with the late model valve body but since I cannot find the longer wire harness I will be replacing the valve body with one from an earlier model.

[FirstVolvo]

Joe, I'm planning on replacing the valve body in my 2001 V70 soon and I wanted to ask you about the wiring harness. I've purchase a new valve body and it's a later rev with the solenoid connectors in the lower position. I spoke with a tech at Sonnax and he mentioned the older wiring harness should work but I wanted to ask you just how short the wires are and if there is any way the original harness could be used? Did you attempt to connect the linear solenoid connectors to your replacement valve body? I'm wondering if they can be pulled down far enough without too much strain on the connectors and wire once connected. I was able to purchase a new valve body for $383 but it's a GM ACDelco 24228787 valve body that needs a couple of changes to make it Volvo compatible (S2 solenoid swap and B5 control spring removal). I'll let you know how it goes.

[joevolvo]

Firstvolvo, I did attempt to connect the solenoids but the original harness is way to short. Even stretching the wires to the point damage would not work. The wires probably need to be around 2 inches longer for a comfortable reach.

I gave up on trying to use the later rev valve body so last night I pulled the valve body again (one hour job the second time around) and this morning I picked up a remanufactured early rev valve body from transtar. After another hour worth of labor I had the new valve body in an was off for a test drive. WOW! My car has not driven this well in two years / 15,000 miles. I haven't even reset the computer yet and it has already exceeded my expectations.

Good luck with yours!

[FirstVolvo]

Thanks for the wire length info and it's good to hear the remanufactured valve body is working out well for you. I'm going to have to make the late rev valve body work so I'll plan on a new wiring harness or modify the existing wires.

[jgjones095]

I too have a similar issue with my v70xc my00 mk2 model . poor shifting from the auto tranny aw55 50 sn

however being uk based doesn't help as the spares are not readily available over here.

joe volvo when you fitted the new valvevbody and used your oroginal solenoids did you clean them down before refitting?

how much was your valve body from transtar? do you have details on this company? did the new body come with solenoids fitted?

[shmoulton]

Fellow 2001 XC drivers,

I've got a 2001 XC70 with a bum transmission. I can't afford to have the Volvo dealership in town remedy the problem ($5900 was the estimate, for an entirely new tranny I believe). After speaking with a few other independent shops, I'm looking at the following options: a used 2002 transmission (apparently fits in a 2001 but has a better track record than the 01s), or a remanufactured 02 one for a bit more $$$. Alternatively, a transmission shop is willing to take a crack at rebuilding it for $2,700, but based on what I've read, this doesn't seem like the best option based on how tricky/problematic/notorious 01 trannys are.

Another shop proposed just replacing the valve body on my current transmission for ~$2,300. The shop has a great reputation and says that they've repaired a bunch of 01s this way and have a great track record of success tackling the problem this way. (They said they initially tried rebuilding them but it was too hard and often didn't work and that this is a smarter way to go.) Sounds like some of you have done this or had this done successfully: any reason I shouldn't try this solution?

[Astro14]

Don't go with used. Zero chance you'll get a good one.

It's not rocket science to rebuild this, but the valvebody has to be done as part of the rebuild.

If you go the valve body route, it might work. Or you might waste that $2,300. Your risk.

Did you read through the resources section?

[jgjones095]

ok i can sorce a new valve body in the UK bit its for around £650 however, it is the new version.
they said they are unable to obtain the earlier deisng anymore.

so what is wrong with the wiring?
can someone confirm what the wiring issue between the early and late solenoids are?

is it just a case of having to extend the wiring harness to fit the solenoids?
are the pin out of the solenoids different?

[JRL]

It's different, as are the internal solenoids.... and of course one can get the 01-02 valvebodies, they're the ones that fail the most/
"THEY" (whoever they are/is)... is full of it!

[jgjones095]

can you still get them in the states JRL?
If so who can I contact from the other side of the pond?

i guess that the later ones cannot be used then?

[JRL]

Still get what?

[jgjones095]

still get the early model valve bodies in the states?

[Astro14]

You probably could get an early body here, but you can also get yours rebuilt. Why not find the folks on your side of the pond who are rebuilding them, and have them rebuild yours?

[jgjones095]

not many auro tranny shops here especislly local to me
most cars have manual boxes

a valve rebuild cost about 800+vat @20%
box rebuild is about 2k

new valve body cost 550

go figure

[2002V70XC]

hey guys
I'm also looking for casting "A" valve body for my 2002. I've found one cheapest option on ebay US (roughly $650AU and no need to return the core): http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221595602047
But the description is a bit weird (part number and casting code?) so i just wanna ask some experts here for some opinions.
This is the description for the item:
"Part # is AW-2922
For Early Model Volvo
This remanufactured valve body has a casting letter of "A" and casting code # 9167"

I've heard from matthew forums that someone from Australia (his name is Mike I believe) replaced two valve bodies for 2002 Volvo V70XC and both of them had casting "A" so I have a good guess that mine would also have a stamp A valve body.
The thing is that this listing doesn't state anything about warranty so is it safe to buy or should I look at another option?