Rear fog light switch

[Flathood]

I am mounting a set of driving lights on my 2001 XC70. They will only come on with the high beams when the associated switch is activated. Mounting a dashboard switch and running wires through the firewall is not as easy or neat as on my 240s. I would like to repurpose the rear foglight switch for this. I never use the rear foglight anyway because of confusion with other drivers as well as law enforcement. Can anyone describe where the leads from the rear foglit switch appear under the hood? Thanks.

[billr99]

Use an Add-A-Fuse to power a relay to fire your driving lights with the high beam circuit. Use #20 or 21 in the front fuse block. You need to add a switch, use the front fog switch or convert the rear fog switch in your driving light circuit, of course. Unfortunately the rear fog light fuse is in the rear block and isn't much use in this exercise other than to pull it to defeat the rear fog function.

Hope this helps a bit.

Cheers,

Bill

[Flathood]

Use an Add-A-Fuse to power a relay to fire your driving lights with the high beam circuit. Use #20 or 21 in the front fuse block. You need to add a switch, use the front fog switch or convert the rear fog switch in your driving light circuit, of course. Unfortunately the rear fog light fuse is in the rear block and isn't much use in this exercise other than to pull it to defeat the rear fog function.

Hope this helps a bit.

Cheers,

Bill

Bill,

Thanks for the tips. Years ago my son and I built a SCCA ProRally car from a '80 240 GT and campaigned it for 7 years on the SCCA series so I'm ok with high current wiring including relays and fusing. What I hope to do is not have to mount an additional switch on the dash and run wires through the firewall for these Hellas. I would consider repurposing either fog light switch for this. I had hoped that the rear fog light switch wires at least made an appearance under the hood before heading to the back.

Best

Charlie

[billr99]

Yeah, that would be nice but I'm thinking that the front fog switch is going to be your only option unless you can tap the rear one right behind the switch panel itself.

So when you ran your 240 did you run the Sunriser Rally? I use to go with my brothers and later my older son tagged along to spectate the Sunriser. Years before I ran a Datsun 510 in the ORC Series and crewed a couple of PORs but that was when I was in university and young and stupid.

Cheers,

Bill

[shammyh]

Bill,

Thanks for the tips. Years ago my son and I built a SCCA ProRally car from a '80 240 GT and campaigned it for 7 years on the SCCA series so I'm ok with high current wiring including relays and fusing. What I hope to do is not have to mount an additional switch on the dash and run wires through the firewall for these Hellas. I would consider repurposing either fog light switch for this. I had hoped that the rear fog light switch wires at least made an appearance under the hood before heading to the back.

Best

Charlie

Hello!

So, first off, I'd recommend biting the bullet and paying Volvo the $5 or whatever it is, and downloading the wiring diagrams for your specific model and year. You can often find stuff on the internet, but it may not be up-to-date (possible revisions over time, or corrections), and may not be exactly precise for your model year. Plus, it's only a few dollars...

Second, unfortunately, the light switches you are referring to (front fog, rear fog, main beam, etc) are actually not current switched, but together form the "Light Switch Module" (LSM) which is only connected to the CEM, and nothing else, via a serial bus link (might actually be CAN-low, but I forget without checking the wiring diagram). The switch module tells the CEM, which then actually controls the relays for the lights. However, in the case of the rear fog light, the CEM actually talks via CAN to the Rear Electronic Module (REM), which is where the relay is for the rear fog light. So unfortunately, there quite literally is no appearance of the rear fog light wires under the hood anywhere. Heck, the relay and fuse isn't even up there, and the RER is powered before the main electrical positive junction under the hood. So technically it doesn't even touch anything under the hood.

What I would suggest however, is looking into the "auxiliary lamp" function in the P2 Volvos. Just google "Volvo 8671036". There's actually a kit that's made specifically for running a separate set of driving/spot/head lights. It also includes a switch that goes down in front of the gear shift with the other DSTC/etc switches, and is Volvo OEM. I believe it's available as a kit too, which would include the switch, the wiring, and whatever relays/fuses/harnesses would be required.

If that's not up your alley, than I'd suggest hi-jacking the front fog lamp circuit, which is available up front, in the engine bay. Again, check the wiring diagram for specifics.

[Flathood]

Thanks for the sugestions. The search you suggested led to Volvo Parts Webstore and a potential solution. I spotted the Auxilliary Lights label on the fuse/relay box but didn't go further. I'm still used to every switch being a current switching device. Gotta get over that. Tomorrow I'll be visiting the local Volvo
Dealer where the Parts Manager knows me all too well. Maybe he can make sure I don't accidentally order another pair of spot lamps along with the correct relay and harness.

Charlie

[atbspinner]

I did this years ago, but I think the dealership was able to program my '01 to run driving lights with the parking lights on position. Not sure what that costs
to hook up to their computer because I had a friend who worked there fix it.

[ForestRanger]

Easier solution... buy the Volvo driving light kit with wiring harness and plug-n-play switch + a new dash faceplate for below the climate controls (if you don't have one with blank spots for extra switches already). Super easy install, so long as you can get it to ground property (I blew through a handful of fuses before I finally got it right). It was a super easy install that even an electronics moron like myself was able to do in about 2hrs with nothing fancy.

[JRL]

They ALL have blank spots

[Flathood]

Easier solution... buy the Volvo driving light kit with wiring harness and plug-n-play switch + a new dash faceplate for below the climate controls (if you don't have one with blank spots for extra switches already). Super easy install, so long as you can get it to ground property (I blew through a handful of fuses before I finally got it right). It was a super easy install that even an electronics moron like myself was able to do in about 2hrs with nothing fancy.

That appears to be what I will do. My friendly parts guy researched it and brought up part 9499563 (Mounting Kit) which includes harness, relay and switch. I already have the Hella lamps I want. When you installed the kit, did the lights onlymcome on with high beams?

Charlie

[JRL]

I have no such problem with LED lights.

Not an answer

[ForestRanger]

They ALL have blank spots

My 2006 Ocean Race edition did not. I had to order a new faceplate and a couple of blanks to do the install.

[ForestRanger]

When you install the kit to use the Hellas you have to put your high beams on, then hit the auxiliary lights switch. Once the switch is activated, the Hellas will come on and off with your regular high beams. If you want to go back to just high beams and no hellas, you have to hit the switch again to de-activate (the switch lights up to let you know when they're active... as if the extra brightness wasn't a dead giveaway)

[JRL]

My 2006 Ocean Race edition did not. I had to order a new faceplate and a couple of blanks to do the install.

How many oddball options do you have?
Never seen a US car with no blanks left

[Flathood]

When you install the kit to use the Hellas you have to put your high beams on, then hit the auxiliary lights switch. Once the switch is activated, the Hellas will come on and off with your regular high beams. If you want to go back to just high beams and no hellas, you have to hit the switch again to de-activate (the switch lights up to let you know when they're active... as if the extra brightness wasn't a dead giveaway)

Perfect. Thanks

[ForestRanger]

How many oddball options do you have?
Never seen a US car with no blanks left

DTSC, folding power mirrors, and parking sensor were the three stock switches. The faceplate only had openings for the 3 plus the 12volt plug. Added in the Aux Light switch and now I have 4 switches and three blanks filling the spaces on the new faceplate with 7 spots for switches plus the 12 volt plug

[JRL]

My faceplate has 6 blanks IIRC (It had no options, DSTC is not a button in 2007)

[JRL]

SEVEN!

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww329/JRL1194/dash.jpg

[mapper]

Please post pics of the installed lights when you're done!!

[Flathood]

Easier solution... buy the Volvo driving light kit with wiring harness and plug-n-play switch + a new dash faceplate for below the climate controls (if you don't have one with blank spots for extra switches already). Super easy install, so long as you can get it to ground property (I blew through a handful of fuses before I finally got it right). It was a super easy install that even an electronics moron like myself was able to do in about 2hrs with nothing fancy.

The wiring kit came in today. Looks like a piece of cake. One thing puzzels me. The instructions say that you must replace the 3 button panel with a 7 button one. I have a 3 button switch panel and 2 are not used (blanks installed). Do I still need to order a 7 button panel?

[ForestRanger]

Nope, just remove one of the blanks and put in the switch provided.

[yankeeblues]

I need to repace my backup warning switch as the green light on the switch is intermittent. Can someone explain the process of removing the accessory switch panel and replacing a switch? Thanks

[Flathood]

4718471947204721
Please post pics of the installed lights when you're done!!

Here are some pics. Easy job. Found 2 out of 3 airbox mounts missing/broken. Opportunity to fix.