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View Full Version : OMG! How the HELL do you swap out the CBV???



guyeye
10-28-2012, 03:28 PM
Sorry, I don't have any skin left on my knuckles. Anyone done this on an XC without removing the turbo? I've been lying on top of my engine for about an hour, just trying to figure out how to get a tool in there just to remove the top 2 bolts (not to mention the one you can't see!) I've had an IPD HD CBV kicking around, waiting to be installed. I thought today was going to be the day.
Tips? Hints? Tricks?

JRL
10-28-2012, 03:46 PM
Hard to explain but this is a 15 minute job, you're doing something very wrong
(and it's BCV or TVC not the other way around if you mean boost control valve or turbo control valve)

guyeye
10-28-2012, 04:13 PM
CBV=Compressor Bypass Valve. On turbocharger, facing exhaust manifold. I know what the TCV is.
How's the storm shaping up?

01V70XC5A
10-29-2012, 07:51 PM
IPD Has instructions on their website, I was thinking about doing this upgrade in the next couple months...

Ocean Racer
10-29-2012, 07:57 PM
Hard to explain but this is a 15 minute job, you're doing something very wrong
(and it's BCV or TVC not the other way around if you mean boost control valve or turbo control valve)

LOL Jim!

For the record there's a TCV and CBV.
Turbo Control Valve - the black fitting with poly pipes usually hanging on the air intake housing,
Compressor Bypass Valve - on the turbo housing.

guyeye
10-29-2012, 08:54 PM
The IPD instructions are weak! They show it being done with the turbocharger removed. I've heard of this being done with the TC intact, I just can't for the life of me, figure out how to fit any kind of tool in, to undo those bolts! Seems impossible.

Astro14
10-29-2012, 09:01 PM
Got a picture?

guyeye
10-29-2012, 09:29 PM
Of my knuckles? Or the CBV?
Seriously- I might need a finer optic cam to get the shot! If you look down at your turbocharger from the driver's (left) side, it's between the wastegate actuator and the exhaust manifold, below the OTE pipe coupling.
I'm thinking a whole lot more than just the strut bar, heat shield & OTE pipe need to be removed. Probably more like that, plus the turbo intake pipe, wastegate actuator, a coolant line, various vac hoses. Still looks like a major pain.
Just wondering if I'm overthinking it.

Ocean Racer
10-29-2012, 10:03 PM
For the record, I gave up on this as well and only changed it when I had the turbo out.

billr99
10-30-2012, 05:13 AM
I put the IPD kit in by pretty much climbing up on top of the engine after taking off the turbo cross-over pipe and as much other extraneous crap I could that was in the way. PITA, in any case.

Have fun,

Bill

KevinR
10-30-2012, 07:49 AM
I put the IPD kit in by pretty much climbing up on top of the engine after taking off the turbo cross-over pipe and as much other extraneous crap I could that was in the way. PITA, in any case.

Have fun,

Bill

After all of that work, was it worth doing? Did it make any difference?

guyeye
10-30-2012, 08:44 AM
Thanks for all the feedback. Sounds like something I have to attempt WITHOUT my 3 yr. old assistant and a long "honey-do" list.
I don't think it's really a question of "making any difference" unless you're having definite boost problems. I think it might make a difference if you are running higher than stock boost levels. For me, everything seems to be running fine, but since I'm running high boost levels, It's advisable to install an HD CBV to hold those boost levels and also last longer. I've heard high boost levels can tear apart the stock units.
In doing my research, the folks over at Sweedespeed.com seem to swear by the Forge Blow Off Valve, which replaces the rubber diaphragm with an actual valve that vents the excess boost to the atmosphere rather than back into the intake. But, that's pricy and I already had the IPD unit.

billr99
10-30-2012, 01:49 PM
After all of that work, was it worth doing? Did it make any difference?

Absolutely, but mine had developed a split as the diaphragm aged. I replaced it at about 200K kms.

Cheers,

Bill

howardc64
07-26-2015, 04:14 PM
Found a good trick on reinstalling the CBV so reviving this old thread.

Removing the lowest bolt is difficult due to coolant pipe+hose in the way but I was able to get the bolt off like 1/8 turn at a time. A small 10mm wrench definitely helps.

Reinstall is all but impossible until I realized this trick. I cut a slot on the bottom of the bolt hole so I can just drop the CBV on top of the bottom bolt after threading it on and get it mostly in. No seal issue since the diaphragm is the seal and the bolts have a nice sized washer around it.

Tiny ignition 10mm open end wrench makes life easier.

7343

sjonnie
07-29-2015, 09:01 AM
Haha, nice, maybe I'll actually install that kit now!

guyeye
07-29-2015, 12:10 PM
Great tip! I started this thread and my new one is still rattling around in my toolbox. Maybe I'll give it another go!

howardc64
07-30-2015, 11:45 AM
If suspecting CBV for lost boost as I did in my case, I found the my problem was in one the vacuum check valves for the EVAP circuit rather than the CBV. Purge valve on the EVAP circuit draws vacuum from 2 possible sources : fresh air pipe just ahead of the turbo and manifold. There are a 1 way check valves for each vacuum source. Mine manifold one was broken (internal diaphragm broken when I cracked it open, actually repaired it with a bicycle tire patch kit). This means turbo inlet was draining the intake manifold pressure. It was kind of random depending on how the broken diaphragm behaved.

So in my case... I kind of had a giant "compression bypass" going on where intake manifold pressure was reduced by the turbo. Doing more or less what an open CBV does :) Anyhow, my CBV was good. You can hear the diaphragm open/close at 5psi vacuum (vacuum hose right at intake manifold, easy access)

FYI, this was on a 2000 V70 XC SE. But the 2.4L LPT turbo engine looked pretty much identical like the 01s I had.