Wing bars and cargo box revisited

[rexhart]

Forgive the remedial nature of this question, but never having owned a rooftop carrier before I'm at a loss. So I picked up the wing bars and cargo box yesterday got the bars up and started to figure out the adapter kit for the t track system.

Correct me please if I'm wrong, but I cut the rubber strip after sizing for the square head bolts. Place box over bolts and thumbscrew the box on securely. OK, Got that part.

Now at the end of my trip I take the box off and take the square head bolts out? Do you leave them in with the thumb screws on? Do I cut the rubber strip (or can I poke a hole and push it over the bolt?) i think Picklehead asked about the "teeth" on the adapter bracket I'm still unsure where they come into play. Picklehead if you come across this could you post a pic of the inside of the box when it's on the car?

Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Any pictures of the box off would be welcomed. Any direction would help! I've got a week to figure this out.

Thanks in advance, Milton

[picklehead]

Hi Milton,

I leave the bolts in the adapter with the rubber seals around them. I cut the strips around the bolts, I did not think that the bolt was long enough to just poke a hole through the seal. This helps to have a quick setup when you reattach the box. I take off the wing crossmembers and store them in the mountaineer cargo box, helps me to keep track of all of the parts. Then the whole unit goes back into the original cardboard box as this allows me to stand everything on end saving floor space in the garge.

The teeth I noted in the picture on the installation page refer to the bottom of the plastic attachments inside the box. The order of attachement for me is 1) crosswinged member with t bolt, 2) metal support plate, 3) cargo box, now on to inside the cargo box... 4) rubber shim, 5) plastic holdown (with "teeth"), and finally 6) the plastic screw down device. Reading back over this it sounds more complicated than it actually is, it really is easier than it sounds. Finally, make certain that the box is mounted far enough forward to allow the tailgate to open. Unfortunately, I did not take any pictures of the inside of the cargo box when I had it attached... I hope this wordy description will get you there
http://xc70.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif As a side note, I averaged about 24 mpg with the box attached. I usually get about 26 mpg highway without the box so there is a slight penalty for the extra cargo.

Very Respectfully,
Jim Miller

[rexhart]

Jim,

Thank you for the reply, I'm going to try and use a leather punch to make the holes and be able to poke the bolt through. I was wondering if there were mating teeth inside the box, but I gather that there aren't.

Well, I'm going to hold off making all the holess and/or cuts for a couple of days to see if anyone else comes in with a good idea.

I would like to be able to use the rails for something other than the box. If I would someday get a bike carrier, I could shift the box over and put a bike carrier up there also. If I cut the rubber strip then I'll have to cut it again (and again) till the rubber strip is in 10 parts, and they would be tough to line up again.

And if I wanted to use the rails for some 4X8 sheets of plywood (or something of that nature) I'll have to take the bolts out to stack something on the rails to avoid the risk of bending them or scratching whatever it is I have on the rails. I think you can see my point.

I'll post some pictures when I get it together.

Thanks, Milton

[kersti]

Is there a problem with leaving the rubber strip out when the carrier is attached. That is what I planned to do, I leave the wing crossbars on all the time and have the rubber strip reattached when not in use.

Kersti

[Low Tide]

The leather punch is the best idea...  I just cut the strip.  They are meant to be cut and placed- this way you do not have to take the WHOLE strip out every time you want to adjust/remove the placement.  The section between the bolts can be left in without moving it around.  There is no negative effect to cutting the strip.  

Go ahead and mount it.  If the rubber punch idea works... then that a solution for those not wanting to cut the strip I guess...

[rexhart]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Is there a problem with leaving the rubber strip out when the carrier is attached.[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'> Kersti, my thought is that the rubber strip acts to stabilize the box when on the cross bars ie. make it stick.

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">The section between the bolts can be left in without moving it around.[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
Low Tide, have you added or changed your setup components. Are you strictly using it with one type of load carrier? And I see your point you would take out the needed stripping for the different components. You would also know the spacing is right. Cutting would probably give the cleanest look with the components off as opposed to poking a hole (which would still be a hole when the component is removed.)

I might try and poke a hole in the covered area to see how maleable the rubber is and how forgiving it is with a bolt inserted and removed.

Thanks again for the replies, I do enjoy figuring out the best way to make an irreversable change before I make it http://xc70.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif &#33; Milton

[Low Tide]

I make occasional changes... the cut strips make placement much easier.

I&#39;d advise against leaving the strip out. &nbsp;It keeps the vibration and wear between components down....its quieter and more stable/secure. &nbsp;Otherwise, you have a little metal to metal contact. &nbsp;The strips help form a good tight seal. &nbsp;Last, the strips help keep the channel clean and the bolts from shifting any under heavy load.

[kersti]

Okay, you guys have convinced me, I guess I will have to make the cuts. The only item I have to go on top so far is the ski rack. Will each item require cuts in new places?

Kersti

[Low Tide]

It depends on the size and placement of the rack components really.... &nbsp;

...ski rack cuts &#39;might&#39; match up with bike tray or kayak carrier, or roof box depending on the size/type of the other components....

Who knows? &nbsp;If yu noticed, the strip is pretty stretchy too... there&#39;s more material there than it first appears. &nbsp;The replacement stripping is cheap too... Thule sells it.

[Big]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (kersti @ July 15 2003,11:13)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Is there a problem with leaving the rubber strip out when the carrier is attached. That is what I planned to do, I leave the wing crossbars on all the time and have the rubber strip reattached when not in use.[/QUOTE]<span id='postcolor'>
The purpose of the strips is to cut down on wind noise according to the installation instructions. They should also help keep the channel clean as already noted.

The wing bars certainly look nice but aren&#39;t as functional as conventional straight bars. I was surprised to find out that the wing bars are too narrow for a canoe, and trying to adapt carriers that were not designed specifically for them is challenging because of the curvature and small channel bolts.

[Low Tide]

Too narrow? http://xc70.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/huh2.gif

One thing that is nice about the &quot;standard&quot; square bar is that you should be able to use Thule&#39;s optional extra-long bars... great for when you need to say....carry your &quot;row-boat&quot; sized canoe.... http://xc70.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif http://xc70.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif http://xc70.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/laugh.gif

Just for the sake of argument, I saw a rather sturdy &quot;Old Town&quot; Canoe strapped to a &quot;winged&quot; Nautic Blue XC70 up at the Echo Lake trialhead to the Desolation WIlderness the week before last.... &nbsp;&quot;some&quot; canoes fit apparently. Oars were attached as well.

[Big]

Just a 16&#39; lake canoe with a 34&quot; beam. We strapped it to the XC90 wing bars but the gunwales overlap the wing bar endcaps which is not ideal (the canoe scratches the plastic endcaps and moves around). The wing bar load service is only 29&quot; (rear) and 32&quot; (front) at maximum spacing which isn&#39;t quite wide enough for a canoe carrier. I may have to install our old Yakima bars.

Here&#39;s the canoe on a V70 XC with Yakima rack
and in the water:
http://idisk.mac.com/main_street/Public/XC-canoe.jpg http://idisk.mac.com/main_street/Public/Sparks.jpg

[Low Tide]

That explains it... 34&quot; is pretty wide. Argh&#33; Sorry to hear about it, I had no idea. Just Joshing you around anyway.

Hope that you find a solution... how about a load lifter? Not sure if they are avail...that&#39;s a good question for Thule&#39;s 800 line&#33; I&#39;ll dig out my list too to see if there is any adaptor mentioned for the T-track system- like a load extender...

It also looks like the F/R difference is pretty large on the XC90&#33; I&#39;ll measure the distances on the XC70.... I was pretty sure it is a bit wider bar spread...its been a long day and maybe I&#39;m mistaken though....

Sorry if my advice on the wings caused any pain.... I didn&#39;t mean to.... my side by side measurements in the local Volvo parts dept of the three options made them all look about equal. Never thought that the XC90 was much different.

[Art]

I also agree that the square/round bars offer more versatility when it comes to hauling wider loads. The standard 48&quot; O.E.M. square-tube rack accommodates both our 22&quot; wide kayaks with ease.

I&#39;m sure Combustion thinks so too&#33; http://xc70.com/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif

http://www.fordharley.com/DSCN5844.jpg

[rexhart]

Good setup for you Art. I don&#39;t think I can do that with the wing bars, although I was wondering if it could be done.

I&#39;m actually hoping that I might be able to get the Mountaineer and a single bike up there.

I haven&#39;t cut or punched anything yet. I was thinking that after I punched a hole in the rubber I might be able to fit a grommet or some type of plastic hole spacer to keep the rubber strip from tearing.

Just spitballing here. Milton

[Low Tide]

Box and single bike will fit no problem. &nbsp;

And for the record... the USABLE mounting space b/w the XC70 Wing bars is...

Front: &nbsp;33.5 inches
Rear: &nbsp; 33.5 inches