going from XC70 to V70 T5

[bg2128506]

Sorry for the somehow off-forum topic.

With my 2001 XC70 being almost a goner (no reverse gear, neutral is forward, etc - I posted few days ago the story), I am looking now for the alternatives.
Yesterday I test-drove beautiful reliable Honda CR-V. Today I am back looking for old Volvos, hardly picturing myself driving a CR-V for the next few years.

So few options are coming up. One is getting XC70 2004, and another is 2001 v70 T5 _manual_ transmission (133500k miles).
The manual transmission, in my opinion, should last much longer. There rest of the problems for 2001 v70 are known to my by heart, and I do not mind them.

Does anyone have an experience with v70 manual transmission model or a wise word to spare?

I am also thinking to swap some recently replaced parts from my XC70 as I retire her. That would be a radiator, Sachs struts (?? unlikely though), coils (those failed couple of years ago in rapid succession, I had once 2 out at once, luckily a mile from home), steering rack (will it fit ????), may be a lower control arms. I will research in details, but it may be something well known that those parts are interchangeable or not.

Thanks for looking, bg.

[Seamus]

i have a manual transmission S60, and the transmission died at about 190K miles. It wasnt totally dead, but it was making awful noises from one of the bearings and it seemed like it was going to go at any point. So I would make sure there are no noises and all the gears shift smoothly.

[bg2128506]

You need to update your signature; it says S60 T5 5spd (187k) :)

But fixing a bearing in a manual transmission is one thing, while taking apart automatic another. Two good Volvo shops explicitly told me they do not fix automatic transmissions, which makes me think they do manual.

[JRL]

Hard to impossible to get parts for a Volvo manual tranny

[Astro14]

Coils will fit, radiator should, not sure on steering rack, struts are different, LCAs are different.

My T5 had the same transmission issues as the XC, and I've done the LCAs and balljoints (while I was in there) and now, it needs struts, but I love driving the car.

It's a very different machine - quicker steering, less body roll, better grip, much firmer ride and a much quicker car. I also get 2-3 MPG more than I do with the XC (if I can keep from enjoying that turbo too much!)...overall, I love my auto T5...a manual would be even better, but I couldn't find one when I was shopping.

Manuals are generally very reliable, unless the previous owner didn't know how to shift...

[bg2128506]

10 days later, after having looked at an audi and after bmw 328xi manual wagon deal fell apart, I got 2001 v70 t5 manual at 133k for $6500. It may need a radiator replacement (or some hoses at least), otherwise looks fine, drives fine, drives nicer than my 2001 xc. New throttle body installed a week ago. But it nearly gave me a hear attach, when I parked it on my inclined driveway in a first gear, and it started to roll back (hesitant, 10 inches at a time, resting for 3 seconds, then another 10 inches). I sweated I bought a lemon, but after a quick internet researching, seems to be rather a common thing in mostly 4 cylinders engines. t5 has 5 and it's a heavy car, so a single cylinder's compression does not hold a car; the compression fades out, engine cranks, then another cylinder, and another. Any remedies for that?
(perhaps one can refer me to a nice v70 t5 forum?)

[Allen]

Parking brake.

[JRL]

Better yet would be park on a level street

[bg2128506]

I figured that out with a parking break: must be a better design, because my BMW rolls on the parking break. So a gear and a brake do the trick.
I am in San Francisco, so level streets are at premium here.

[Astro14]

I don't know what a parking "break" is...but the parking BRAKE on your car should not allow it to roll when correctly applied.

There are some tech notes on how to adjust your BRAKE in the resources section...check that first.

And you should ALWAYS, ALWAYS set the parking brake in addition to car in gear (or park)...

[bg2128506]

My point here is not about what I should do to be able to park in a gear only. I figured that out on the spot, I will be parking in a gear and a BRAKE (sorry, fetching my ESL textbook :). I haven't heard until yesterday that a new car (I found a thread about 2012 Toyota Corolla) will not hold a compression. I am actually more concerned with my new old 2001 Volvo, than with 2012 Corolla. If anyone here can say 'it happens with new manual Volvos all the time', I will sleep well. Otherwise all kind of nasty things come in mind with respect to compression: leaking from under spark plugs, leaking from under the head gasket, worn out pistons and oil rings, build up on the valves. And yes, last time I checked the compression on my XC70 when replacing the spark plugs, it was good.

Or may be it's just a matter of the design: single cylinder cannot hold 3900' lb car on a 7% incline compressing just air. And I'll give it a shot and do some calculations to produce some mathematical justification. Anyone knows the piston travel distance in 2.3 engine?

[Astro14]

There are so many factors in the engine holding the car that I would not worry about the condition of your engine. Ring leakage, valve overlap, final drive ratio, 1st gear ratio - they all figure into the equation...you really can't say that there is anything mechanically wrong if the car won't hold on the same grade as another. I would not worry about that part. Just make sure the brake is correctly adjusted - they do wear.

If I lived in San Francisco - I would replace the parking brake shoes, and check the mechanism. I've spent a lot of time there, and you're right, level ground is at a premium...

And I was overly harsh on the spelling - pet peeve of mine - and I apologize, particularly if English is your second language....

Cheers,