PCV Breather Cleaning Adventure/Cam Seals

[lorenfrench]

Okay, I'm finally doing it, cleaning the crankcase breather system and then the cam seals.
Questions so far as I'm taking things apart: ON the breather project I don't have to take out the power steering pump only the hard pipe going to it that is clamped to the intake, correct? The biggest thing I see I'll be removing is the intake manifold and disconnecting the gas line to the injectors, correct?

On the cam seals, it seems pretty clear that I need to lock the cams. I can see the rear intake cam but the rear access to the exhaust cam is blocked by the motor mount and a large flange thing. I do notice a similar size hole in the center on top of the exhaust cam, is that a locking port as well or do I need to take everything off the end of the exhaust port?
I realize after so much reading how easy it is to change the timing belt now. especially with one of those little locking gizmo's between the gear pulleys!
Thanks.

[howardc64]

On the PCV job, the hard pipe on the intake (PS pressure side pipe going to the rack) has to come off. Get a couple of o-rings to reassemble this pipe on the PS pump (all by feel, no torque value that I'm aware of. The o-ring can get smashed and break if over tightened. Follow my tips on reassembly to avoid disassembly of PS pump, alternator and AC

http://howardsvolvos.webs.com/engine.htm#487754928

On the timing belt job, I borrowed a cam locker from O'Reillys and it didn't clamp on very well. A good trick is to count the number of teeth between the 2 markers on the cam gear. That way, you have 2 cam marker alignment reference points combined with the correct number of teeth between them.

[JRL]

No it doesn't, just the fuel line

[lorenfrench]

JRL, do you mean I don't have to remove the manifold? How will I get to the flame trap box, or is that not likely to be dirty. As far as I know the PCV system has never been cleaned unless the dealer did it the first 100k. It has 240k on it now.

[lorenfrench]

Howard, I'm not sure I follow you on the cam teeth counting thing. I'm assuming that if I don't lock the camshaft it will move because of the springs as soon as I take off the belt. I realize that isn't a big deal because I can line the marks back up. My big doubt is when the pulley goes back on, it will have to go back in the exact same position. I'm assuming there isn't a cog or key on the pulley and it could go on three different ways. So if I just let the cam go as it will, make a mark somehow to identify how the pulley was, then line up the timing marks as they were marked, make sure the crankshaft hasn't moved, I should be ok, right? Also, if the exhaust seal isn't leaking should I just leave it alone? Thanks.

[JRL]

JRL, do you mean I don't have to remove the manifold? How will I get to the flame trap box, or is that not likely to be dirty. As far as I know the PCV system has never been cleaned unless the dealer did it the first 100k. It has 240k on it now.

No I said you don't need to remove the power steering
Of course you need to remove the manifold.
You keep saying cleaning, bite the bullet and buy NEW parts.
I have found that unless you have very minor backup the rubber pieces are so old and disintegrated they will need replacing and the plastic box itself is so cheap you just replace it
Besides there is one important piece that just can't be cleaned properly.

[lorenfrench]

Oh, okay. I wasn't trying to cheap out just thought it was a cleaning job. The long pipe toward the turbo is quite expensive though.Should I bother to mess with the throttle, it hasn't acted up at all since Volvo replaced it.

[JRL]

For some reason I'm having an issue with this site, PM me and I'll show you how to save $200 on parts!

[howardc64]

Howard, I'm not sure I follow you on the cam teeth counting thing. I'm assuming that if I don't lock the camshaft it will move because of the springs as soon as I take off the belt. I realize that isn't a big deal because I can line the marks back up. My big doubt is when the pulley goes back on, it will have to go back in the exact same position. I'm assuming there isn't a cog or key on the pulley and it could go on three different ways. So if I just let the cam go as it will, make a mark somehow to identify how the pulley was, then line up the timing marks as they were marked, make sure the crankshaft hasn't moved, I should be ok, right? Also, if the exhaust seal isn't leaking should I just leave it alone? Thanks.

First, let me say I was commenting on the timing belt job. Not removing the cam gears. I don't know how to lock down the hubs if you were to remove the cam gears. By the way, the tool ipd sells to lock down cam gears seems a lot more sturdy then the one I borrowed from O'Reillys. But this doesn't matter to you because these lock tool locks using the cam gear which you need to pull off.

On the 4 timing belt job I did (93 850, 02 V70XC, 01 V70XC, 01 V70 T5), the cam gears were pretty stationary when I took the belt off and put the new one on. FYI, non of these cars have intake CVVT.

Counting teeth between the cam gear marks is just a a good precaution to make sure you have everything assembled back correctly on the timing belt job. On the most recent timing job I did, it saved me from being 1 tooth off.

Definitely do more research on what it takes to secure the cam when you pull the cam gears off. I've not done it and can't offer any advice.

[JRL]

The replacement piece to use instead of the long PCV pipe is called a "nipple" and the PN is:
30731997
Volvo list price is $39 I'm sure you can buy this at Tasca for 25-27 bucks or so

If someone has a VIDA-DICE and can find a picture of it, that would be helpful.
When you see it, it will be obvious what it replaces, you have to carefully mate it in to the large pipe. There are some tricks to this

[howardc64]

I never replace the long L pipe that goes back to the turbo. It is expensive and requires messing with the coolant. It is the PCV nipple at the both ends that gets clogged rather than the pipe itself.

I've never "replaced" the nipple, just cleaning it (use a nail/drill bit to clear any blockage inside the nipple fitting)s Here is what is looks like

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A-DiTtIRgrY/TLpf3Or7xYI/AAAAAAAABN0/iLxOmrrOypA/s640/DSCF4061.JPG

I've also never bothed with the PCV nipple near the turbo. But given it appears to be the same design as the one on the intake manifold, I probably should have :)

Reassembling the bolt that holds this nipple onto the intake manifold is where its tricky and Volvo calls for disassembly of PS, Alternator and AC. The link I gave previously has a nice trick that avoids this.

[lorenfrench]

Thanks guys. Howard, the cam lock goes on the rear side of the cam shaft. I presume one pops off the round cap and the slotted shaft is right there waiting to be secured. Volvo didn't want this to be easy so on the exhaust camshaft they mounted the engine mount and associated brackets. That all has to come off as I see it to mount this tool to prevent the cam from moving. It's basically a flat bar steel with two fittings that go into the slotted ends of the camshaft the bar is mounted to the block. The camshaft can't move then. Problem is Volvo wants $260. for a one use tool. I will probably waste more time looking for it and I could resell it afterward I guess. Maybe we can start a loaner tool service on the site!

[howardc64]

Thanks guys. Howard, the cam lock goes on the rear side of the cam shaft. I presume one pops off the round cap and the slotted shaft is right there waiting to be secured. Volvo didn't want this to be easy so on the exhaust camshaft they mounted the engine mount and associated brackets. That all has to come off as I see it to mount this tool to prevent the cam from moving. It's basically a flat bar steel with two fittings that go into the slotted ends of the camshaft the bar is mounted to the block. The camshaft can't move then. Problem is Volvo wants $260. for a one use tool. I will probably waste more time looking for it and I could resell it afterward I guess. Maybe we can start a loaner tool service on the site!

Ah, I see, Volvo tool to lock the cam from the rear.

Here is a thought for you. On 01, only the exhaust cam is CVVT. Intake side has no CVVT and no variable rotational angle. On the 3 timing belt job I did (01 V70 T5 2.3T, 01 V70XC 2.4T, 02 V70XC 2.4T), both cams didn't move when I had the belt off and they didn't necessary want to move easily when the belt was going back on. Therefore, I didn't lock it.

You might consider just taking off the belt, remove the intake cam gear (mark it to the cam so it goes back in the same rotational angle). Even if the cam rotates slightly during your seal job, putting the cam gear back on and align it to the top cover's alignment marks will get you back in alignment. Counting teeth between the cam gear alignment marks and their alignment to the top cover would pretty much get you dead on.

Now how to remove those 3 bolts on the intake cam gear without a Volvo counter hold tool... I'm not sure using crank shaft + old timing belt itself can provide enough counter hold force. Maybe someone has some ideas :)

[Jeremy]

Thanks guys. Howard, the cam lock goes on the rear side of the cam shaft. I presume one pops off the round cap and the slotted shaft is right there waiting to be secured. Volvo didn't want this to be easy so on the exhaust camshaft they mounted the engine mount and associated brackets. That all has to come off as I see it to mount this tool to prevent the cam from moving. It's basically a flat bar steel with two fittings that go into the slotted ends of the camshaft the bar is mounted to the block. The camshaft can't move then. Problem is Volvo wants $260. for a one use tool. I will probably waste more time looking for it and I could resell it afterward I guess. Maybe we can start a loaner tool service on the site!

For the timing belt you don't need the lock tool. As long as the marks on the cam gears are aligned to the crank gear all will be well. Not a bad idea to count the teeth on the belt either. You don't need to align the cams only the gears to the belt.

As far as the cam seal you can do the non variable timing gear one easily see my write up here:
http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?10968-Cam-seal-replacement-how-to

The other one is a little more difficult. I've been waiting three years to do it. If Ican lock the cam securely its a no brainier. If the cam moves your f'ed.

Jeremy

[lorenfrench]

Thanks Jeremy. I cleaned the PCV breather system and put it all back together. It seems that the leak on the intake cam has stopped now. Is that possible? I already have the replacement seal, do you think I should just go ahead with it since I've got my head into this motor?

[howardc64]

Perhaps just watch it closely? Not too hard to just remove the serpentine belt and the timing belt cover periodically for a quick check. Of course if it does leak, it could oil up your timing belt again.

[lorenfrench]

I had the timing belt replaced at 220k so it only has 25k on it. Because it got pretty wet from oil but looks perfect still, should I still change it?

[JRL]

Yep
If it's oily it's no good anymore

[howardc64]

if you do change the TB, doing that cam seal is probably a good idea since you are already near there. That is assuming you have a counterhold solution to loosen the cam gear bolts and are either comfortable without locking the cam or locking it from the rear.