Your Thought and Comments Would Be Appreciated

[conniecast]

Hi,

New member here.
If anyone here would like to chime in;

Seeking Information

General consensus regarding transmission flush. I have read of many who have used the "Gibbons Method" who are reporting great results. But upon further reading, and a conversation with the shop foreman at the local dealership, I am now a little hesitant. If I do decide to proceed, is a the re-adaptation process always required? 70,000 miles
Would also like to hear what others are using for a brake fluid flush (if you are not using the Volvo fluid).

I was all set to flush with Ate Super Blue, but have now read that many prefer the Ate SL6. Thoughts and comments.

Finally, how are P2 owners lifting their cars with a garage trolley jack? I understand how to get the front end off of the ground and onto jack stands, but has anyone found a suitable central point at the back of the car for placing a trolley jack? Is the process to use the facrory jacking points at the side of the car to lift one side and place jack-stands under that side of the car and then lift the other side (also using the facrory jacking points followed by jack-stands under that side? If so:
Which of the two (or three?) factory jacking point along a given side of the car would one use...further forward or aft? Is there a concern with "oil-canning" the car if one is going to use the side placed points often?

[JRL]

Answered on SS

[Astro14]

You don't need to do a re-adapt for a flush.

Don't let your dealer do a flush...it will cost you about 5 times as much as it should... The right fluid for this is Toyota T-IV or Mobil 3309, which retail for about $6/QT. The Volvo fluid is identical in every respect, and it is $27/QT. You will need about 14 QTs for a flush...do the math...

For brake fluid flush, either choice is fine.

I use ramps for oil changes and getting under the car. Jacking any modern car is a pain...You can use a suspension mounting point, but even then the subframe will be dented if you use the standard cup...you need a block of wood on the jack cup to distribute the load on the subframe and prevent leaving marks....

[conniecast]

So, no jacking point at the rear of the car?

Which of the two or three jacking points along a given side of the car is best to use, the one locate almost centered on the along the side or the one slightly more forward than that? If one is going to be raising the car in this manor to be able put the car on stands frequently, is there a risk of "oil canning" as per the service bulletin?

I already own the Super Blue, and I would assume that Volvo fluid is as expensive compared to quality, appropriate, substitutes as their other fluids seem to be. My question is, should I be considering the other, lower viscosity fluid from Ate instead of making use of the Super Blue that I have on hand?

[BillAileo]

I alternate between ATE Super Blue and their amber fluid and both perform fine. I alternate so it is easier to know when I have new fluid at each bleeder.

[Astro14]

There is an aluminum subframe in the rear. Suspension points can handle the load when you put the car on a lift or jack pad. Subframe mounts can as well...

Make sure that you're on the subframe or mounts...not a control arm! they can be bent, some of them easily...

Side placed points are fine for a tire change...but they're not how the car is put on a lift at the shop...

[conniecast]

Thanks for the replies.
One other quick question.
I would like to remove the lower portion of the air cleaner housing. It seems to be the same system as (four compressible points) as in my other cars, but I have not had much success. I have tries all sizes of sockets on a long extension to compress the points as well trying to use other methods...no luck. Any magical solutions?

[howardc64]

On jack points, I use the factory scissor jacking points. Front one for the front stands and rear one for the rear. In the front, I usually put the stands on the triangularish plate that bolts the subframe to the body. If I need to drop the subframe, I add a piece of wood to spread the load and put the stand just behind this triangular plate. Here is a pic of this plate.

For the rear, there is a nice heavy duty spot for the stands just in front of the wheel well. Here are some pics

http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?13513-Jack-Points&p=97852&viewfull=1#post97852

On brake fluid, I do as bill99 does, alternate the color to know when new fluid is coming out.