XC70 fog light question (MY2002)

[canjbi]

I have a 2002 XC70 with factory fog lights.

The existing lights work fine. They just aren't bright enough to do what I need.
I do a lot of night driving and want better and brighter dispersed lighting in front and to the sides.
What I really want is a set of driving lights instead.

I want to mount two driving lights and wire them into the EXISTING factory harness, disconnecting the factory fogs.

I try whenever possible to avoid any cutting or splicing of factory wires.

What I want is to get a set of pigtails that have the male connector (same as on the back of the factory fogs) to bare wire so I can wire up alternate lights.
I don't know what the connector style is to try and find a supplier.

Does anyone on here know either:

1. What is the type of connector so I can source and order what I want?

or

2. A supplier that provides a suitable pigtail to do what I want?

My alternate solution is to take a set of spare factory fogs that I have, remove the bulb sockets and convert them into my own connector. I would prefer to avoid doing this if a connector/pigtail is available after market.
The sockets in question are Volvo part# 30795072 (8620226), if that helps any. The ones I have were OEM'd by Zizala, I believe.

Any help would be much appreciated.

[BEJinFBK]

Using the factory wiring for the fog lights to operate
driving lights presents a major, "glaring" problem...
Fogs only run with low beams.

Another prime issue here is the current required by decent driving lights.
I prefer at least 100 watts for a good driving light. So, 200/13.8 = 14.49 amps.
I'd suggest a 20 amp feed from a battery supplied source to a separate relay.

The next question is how you want them to function. For a lot of installations,
I've used a single pole triple throw (SP3T) switch with a center off position.
Run the common leg to the relay coil and use a high beam trigger and a 12
volt source at the two inputs to the switch. This gives you ON, OFF or AUTO.

After a while, I noticed that I always left mine on AUTO and just let the drivers
follow my high beams. Much simpler when dimming for oncoming traffic.
So I ditched the switch altogether and just wired the underhood relay straight
to my highbeams. MUCH easier, cleaner installation.

Remember to waterproof everything and use a fuse where you pick up power.
With a little searching, you'll find nice waterproof relay sockets and fuseholders.
The marine guys usually have cool stuff like that at your local boat shops.

Best of Luck! ;)

[canjbi]

I gather then that the existing factory wiring for the fogs won;t support the current draw for a good set of driving lights?

I apologize but I am only doing preliminary research at this point. I haven't gotten into details such as current draw or relays yet.

Ideally, I want to not add anything inside the cabin that is not factory. I don't want any aftermarket switches. I was hoping to use the existing equipment.
Now this may be overkill but in theory, is there anything to stop me from doing this:

Use existing foglight switch and factory wiring to trigger a relay. Essentially use the power feed from the fogs as the low power trigger, then have the high power run through this relay so the driving lights can pull power from a direct battery connected source (fused, of course).

BTW, I would like the driving lights to work with the low beams and then turn off if I go to high beams. This is part of my thinking in wiring them into the fog circuit to begin with.

[BEJinFBK]

I think your missing the main point here.
Forget about current draw and think this through
to operation on a regular basis. It's dangerous.

Driving lights ARE high beams. Running them
with low beams, regardless of any intentions
you may have to manage them properly, will
eventually end up blinding other drivers and
putting people and property at risk.

You'll be slow reaching a switch or someone
else driving your car will blind someone without
even realizing it because they think they're driving
a normal car. Stick with the norm.

If you want wider lights with your driving (high beam)
lights, add a set of wide dispersion lights that run at the
same time as the drivers. Why do you think rally cars
have so many lights? Or maybe aim your regular high
beams for a wider throw. Leave the lows to themselves.

And you don't need a switch. Like I posted above, just
trigger a relay with the high beams and the dimmer
stalk runs the whole show. Much faster response times
and vastly safer for oncoming drivers. ( Ya know, those
cars that may veer into you if they CAN'T SEE! )

Remember -

If you choose the path
of Killer Driving Lights,
( We call'em "Moose Lights" )
You control Great Power...

And with Great Power
comes Great Responsibility !

Wasn't that in a Movie?

Anyway - Best of Luck! [thumbup]

[ifnt420]

I took out the factory XC fog lights, and replaced it with a set of GE 100W yellow fog lights in the same location.
Used the existing factory harness and switch, has been running for 5 years without any problems.

Good Luck!

[JRL]

In the old days, (I mean the really old days, 60s), we all used to run GE aircraft landing lights for high beams!
It was a 6" round light. They were an exact swap for the old quad round headlight setup that all US cars ran for decades.

Let me tell you it became daylight when switched on :cool: and no one burned out the harnesses