$200.00 for a KEY! are you nuts?

[nortons]

I recently bought a 2000 V70XC and occasionally the ignition key would be difficult to remove or the key would just spin uselessly as though the lock cylinder was failing. So I found a new old stock, correct part number Volvo replacement lock cylinder assembly on Ebay for $30. Complete with 1 "service" type key, (without the large black plastic) and the Volvo key code on the label. Easy, right?
Not so fast. NONE of the local Detroit area locksmiths can cut a Volvo key!
Local Volvo dealer says I have to buy a complete new lock assy. from him for $340, PLUS $200 for an extra key! (But he offered a "deal" if I bought 2 for $245!!!)
Are you serious?
Ive made a couple of calls and sent a number of emails to parts suppliers and word is that replacement keys must be "programmed" to the car. And if I install my brand new OEM Volvo replacement lock cylinder assy., the car WON"T START WITH THE KEY SUPPLIED!
Model year 2000 seems to be starting point for this horse s%*t.
I have an Innova 3160 scan tool. Can this be used to reset/reprogram a replacement key?, (IF I can find one and then find someone to cut it!)
I've owned my '83 242 turbo for 26 years and loved it. I've owned this 2000 V70 for 4 months and I'm seriously beginning to absolutely hate this car for BS like this.
Does anyone out there have any ideas/tips/recommendations? Know of any suppliers for a replacement? Blanks are for sale on Ebay for $6 or so, but if I can't get it cut or " reprogrammed".....

[JRL]

Actually 99 is the first year.
Needs software and must be done at a dealer

[nortons]

So I have to have the car towed nearly 40 miles to the (closest) dealer, (only 3 dealers in entire Detroit/S.E. Michigan!) and pay this pirate $540.00 to get 2 bloody keys?
And I have a NOS, never used, correct part in my hand?
I found 1, (and only 1) locksmith in the entire Detroit/S.E. Michigan area who can/will cut a replacement key for this car; at $200.00 for the key PLUS the service call charge. He was vague about "reprogramming" cost.
This may well be the most PIA car I've ever owned due to BS like this. No wonder they can't sell cars around here. I live in Dearborn, center of the Ford empire and when Ford owned them, they were a common sight as they were available to employees for company cars, but once Ford dumped them they disappeared. Used Volvos are worth nothing around here; less than 1/2 of what a beat up Chrysler minivan sells for.
Car had transmission troubles when I bought it; NONE of the local auto trans shops would touch it. Reason? parts availability and prices! A number reported very bad experiences in the past with FWD Volvo and said "never again!"
I've owned 240s for 26 years, (have 2); parts are reasonable, they are fairly easy to work on and maintain, clean ones are worth good money. This car has been a monumental pain. I've owned it 4 months and I'm about fed up.
I have VADIS on my home PC, but I can't find info on keys. I have an Innova 3160 scan tool; will I be able to "reprogram" a replacement key with that?
I'm really getting sick of this car.
Any help/tips/recommendations, etc will be greatly appreciated.
Doug in Dearborn, Michigan

[JRL]

The recommendation is not to buy the key on Ebay
You order the CORRECT lock assy and key for YOUR car from Volvo.
Takes about a week to 10 days to arrive.
Your old keys should work and at about $300 you're done.

Most other modern cars are the same way BTW

[nortons]

JRL, Thanks for reply. To be clear; the lock assy from Ebay IS the exact same part number as the one the Volvo dealer wanted to sell me. On top of that he wants 1/2 hr. labor, (@$125.00hr), PLUS the charge for "reprogramming" the new key and any spare keys, (one for the wife and a spare to keep around the house would be nice) Plus, I have to shell out a couple hundred or more for the flat bed tow for the 40 miles to this pirate
This is idiotic. Oh,but wait; this is a "theft deterrent device". I already have such "theft deterrent devices" for my pickup, my van, my Aprilia scooter, my vintage Triumph motorcycle, all 3 of my Norton Commandos, the Harley, my snowblower, my toolboxes, and the doors of my house....they're called KEYS. And I can get the local hardware store to cut me new ones for a buck or two each.
Neighbor has some kind of new, absolutely silent, hybrid, 4 door sedan car, Toyota, I think. A generic looking blob with a sneering look to it's front. He pulled into the driveway not 3 feet away from me literally without making a sound. Didn't hear a thing until the door closed. It has no "key" but only a fob that allows the car to start in its' presence. "What do you do if the fob battery fails?" I asked. "Oh, it has this little metal thing that will open the door" he showed me. It looked like 1/2 of a conventional key. "but I don't think there is a place to use it to actually start the car" he said. "Guess I better not lose this" he said.
"Technology" is a good thing, but just because you CAN do something doesn't mean you SHOULD or even that it is a good idea. This key foolishness is the kind of stuff that drives customers away. Like my brothers Cadillac that requires partial engine removal to replace 4 sparkplugs. Save 10 bucks because you only have to replace those plugs at 100,000 miles, but when you do....$$$$$$$$
I can understand 50 or 75 bucks to replace a lost or broken remote lock fob. personally I have no use for them, but my wife likes hers for her minivan. That van had ignition lock cylinder problems, too. On the way to Cedar Point with a car full of kids, the key would not turn the lock to start it or come out after a breakfast stop off I-75. Shelled out for a flat bed tow to nearest Chrysler dealer in Monroe. Cost? $145 including labor and still used old keys for new lock.
I would love to keep this car, but I'd be stupid not to fluff and buff it to make it pretty and sell it off to some other sucker. I'll gladly pour the money into my ongoing rotisserie resto of my 242 Turbo Volvo, but I've really soured on this V70.
Is this "reprogramming" download on VADIS? I can't find it. Is it on "VICE"?, (I think it's called). Should i buy this for my PC?

[BEJinFBK]

It's not about the lock itelf. It's about your keys.
The keys that you originally started with have tiny
chips in their heads. Each one is uniquely coded.
There's an antenna ring right at the ignition switch
that reads the codes of any key inserted.

The car has been "taught" that these are the only keys
that it should recognize and is programmed to start only
if it's one of YOUR keys. It's a pretty common type of system.

What Jim is trying to tell you is that the most cost effective way
to repair a bad ignition switch in a '99- Volvo is to have your
VIN handy, contact Volvo, and have them send you one that's
been custom made to use your existing keys. No reprogramming
should be needed. All you'll pay for is the ignition switch and the
labor for the installation. Or you may want to install it yourself.

Since the one from eBay uses different keys, they have to be
programmed into the car. AND they won't work in the doors...
( This all assumes that the car still has all the factory locks,
including the ignition switch key cylinder...)

Don't hate the car, man - It's just doing it's job!
Just think of the Heated Seats and how well it goes in snow... :D

[nortons]

So what you're telling me is the NOS original Volvo lock assy that I have is basically useless to me as it uses a different key? (No, my old key will not turn the lock cylinder). That sucks
Maybe another alternative is to prowl junkyards to see if my key works in the ignition of one of the wrecks and pull that one. The idea of paying $325 for this is really pi#%ing me off. At half of that it's a rip off. Volvo dealer prices for parts, (flimsy, brittle cheap crappy plastic trim bits have abysmal quality from Volvo) and stupid things like this are just one more reason to dump this car.

[nortons]

I really hate this car.

[JRL]

Prowling the JY will do no good.
Essentially ALL are different
I think one in 20,000 may be the same.

You would actually save money doing it the way I said.
I can buy a lock cylinder coded to your VIN for about $225-$240 (IIRC) or so, install it yourself and that would be it.
It comes with this little short metal key that works so you actually would have a spare key.
Doing it your way will require you have two different keys, one for the ignition and one for the rest of the car.
THIS IS NOT UNCOMMON ON NEWER CARS

[nortons]

Who is IIRC? $225 is a LOT cheaper than what it will cost to do this through the closest Volvo dealer to me. (40 miles!) I've worked in car and bike dealers for 20+ years and I'm telling you, I don't like this place. I actually feel sorry for the guy working the parts counter, I've been in his shoes.
If I had been quoted $225 for the part in the first place, I would have griped but I would have driven out there and ordered the part. Instead, they acted like we were in prison and they were reaching for the hand lotion.
I have the exact part in my hands, though unfortunately it has a different key code. Even $225 is too expensive for this by about 1/2. Dealer replaced ignition lock cylinder on wife's minivan which is visually very similar, functions the same and includes the electrical portion, (the actual ignition switch), for $145 including labor. The difference? The lock cylinder can be removed from the housing and re-keyed to fit the old key.
I bought this car in non-running condition and with a beat up interior. I've spent a lot of time looking for parts, phoning dealers and rummaging around in salvage yards. Today I replaced a L/H front corner light with an aftermarket copy which actually allowed you to push down on the plastic retainer with out it instantly snapping off like the Volvo original. I've had most of the interior out of this car and quality of anything plastic in this car is horrible. Clips, retainers, mouldings, trim pieces are brittle, flimsy and are one-time use only. You're not going to take it apart again without breaking it; need to change a bulb? Better just buy a new lamp housing, too, because it will snap off and be useless if you try to remove it. The quality of the leather used to cover the seats is awful, too. Every one of these cars has seat skins that are coming apart and wearing out at very low mileages.
Oh well, sigh, I guess I'll go out to my shop and sit in one of my 242s. They sure don't make 'em like they used to.

[instarx]

Neighbor has some kind of new, absolutely silent, hybrid, 4 door sedan car, Toyota, I think. It has no "key" but only a fob that allows the car to start in its' presence. "What do you do if the fob battery fails?" I asked. "Oh, it has this little metal thing that will open the door" he showed me. It looked like 1/2 of a conventional key. "but I don't think there is a place to use it to actually start the car" he said. "Guess I better not lose this" he said.
"Technology" is a good thing, but just because you CAN do something doesn't mean you SHOULD or even that it is a good idea. This key foolishness is the kind of stuff that drives customers away.
I agree completely. My neighbor bought one of those new-fangled auto-mobiles. I went over and asked him what he did if he lost the key. "I don't go anywhere, I guess", he said. So I climbed back on my horse, which doesn't require a key, and rode back home (feeling rather smug if I do say)!

By the way, that fob that lets your neighbor start his car without using a key? It doesn't need a battery. It's a passive RFID device interrogated by the car and it doesn't use any internal power. Only the door-remote part needs a battery (hence the emergency door key).

[JRL]

IIRC= if I recall.
You know, standard internet shorthand

[nortons]

Har, Har, Har! Wot a comedian!
Again, to be clear, Volvo dealer says $325 for lock cyl. assy., (this is NOT the ignition SWITCH, that is a separate electricl item and is actually reasonably priced), PLUS 1/2hr labor at $125hr to install, PLUS $200 per key, PLUS "reprogramming" time at $125hr.
AND they will not "reprogram" if I install the lock assy. (Keep in mind that this Volvo dealer once offered me a mechanic job when I worked at a rival BMW dealer!)
The lock cyl assy is fairly easy to change; a couple of plastic mouldings, a handful of TORX screws, move the R/H switch up out of the way, and a few minutes with the cordless drill and a good bit to remove the 2 screws that are designed to break off.
I will accept the fact that i was hasty in buying a NOS, original Volvo, correct part number lock assy without doing enough research that would have told me I needed to insure that the part also had to have the same key code.
I have also learned that UK required such theft prevention keys as of 1999, if I remember correctly.
I bought the part off Ebay in good faith after reading the Haynes manual, (the only manual available for this car. (I have since bought VADIS), which says "turn key to "1" position, insert a 2mm rod and withdraw lock cylinder). I've done this a number of times,including my '83 242 Turbo. (Come to think of it, my '84 242DL is acting up, too). My Dodge minivan, my GMC Sierra and my Aprilia motorcycle, all "modern" vehicles are this way, too, without all of this other monkey motion.
As for your wise guy comments about horses; Have you ever been a guest at your employers Formula 1 suites and paddock party for you and all of the other members of their various race teams? Have you ever had stuff you built in print? Ever been a crew member at Daytona? (I'll show you the photo of me sitting on the pit wall), Have you ever written tech articles for your vintage vehicle club? Well, I have. want to come see my trophies for motorcycles, hot rods, race cars, etc, I've built? Help me dust them? I'll bet I do a lot more work on my cars than you do. I'm not some guy who sits at a keyboard fantasizing.
This dealer is the same guy who quoted me $6,000 for a rebuilt transmission. I still feel this guy is ripping me off and I'm not giving him any more of my money. I'll find a way to do this. I'm not spending $500, $600, $700 for a key on a car that I paid $800 for.
As for theft; who in this world would steal a green Volvo station wagon? No carjacker is that desperate!

[JRL]

As for your wise guy comments about horses; Have you ever been a guest at your employers Formula 1 suites and paddock party for you and all of the other members of their various race teams?

I realize the comment was not for me but...

Yes, Long Beach 1978 (IIRC)

Have you ever had stuff you built in print?

If you mean cars I have built, yes.

Ever been a crew member at Daytona?

Well, if racing your own car counts, I suppose that too would be a yes too.

http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww329/JRL1194/corvette.jpg
The red arrow is me!
http://i732.photobucket.com/albums/ww329/JRL1194/76Sebringlofrt.jpg

(I'll show you the photo of me sitting on the pit wall),

WOW! (I'm impressed)!

Have you ever written tech articles for your vintage vehicle club?

No, can't say I have

Well, I have, want to come see my trophies.

How many? I have a "few" myself.

******

[nortons]

JRL, Not dissing you, it was the one from NC that was being a wise guy.
Cool car! nice photos.
No, I didn't know what IIRC stood for. I know enough "computer" to run my business, (which often involves international communications and transactions in other languages, exchange rate calculations, documents, customs, arranging overseas shipping, etc), answer my email, delete the spam, send photos if needed and so on, but if I need to do anything complicated I have to ask the wife or the kids for help.
I know enough to do most of what I need to do.
There often seems to be types lurking on these forums who love to demonstrate their superiority by smugly using ever more unfathomable jargon or strings of abbreviations, thus grandly displaying their prowess at the keyboard. Funny though, my experience is that these types often don't actually know how to DO much else. Hand them a screwdriver and they'll stab themselves. You, obviously are NOT one of those; the car shows that you know how to twist a spanner as my Brit friends say.
I've never come across a car with as much over-thought, over engineered, over priced, unnecessarily over complicated weirdness as this v70. (Well, maybe a couple of Peugeots or that Citroen that time. Or any Jaguar. I always got stuck with the problem children). And yet for all of the money that has been thrown at this car by the previous owner, (that's why I now own it; he got fed up with this thing bustin' his wallet constantly) and the jaw dropping parts prices, it's still a rather average car with some really mediocre quality. I bought it to flip it and that's what I'm going to do with it. P.O put thousands in it and fed up, he sold it to me for $800. With a bunch of trips to salvage yards for trim pieces to replace the abysmal quality of upholstery and plastic trim, misc. electrical bits, a couple hundred to my pals trim shop to re-do the front seats, weeks of head scratching to deal with transmission woes, a looming appointment with the "dent guy" and subsequent time I'll spend with the buffing wheel after vacuuming a basket ball sized lump of dog hair, I'm going to flip it for as much as I can and turn that into a new driveway. I thought I might keep it if it turned out nice, and it has actually, but this thing will bankrupt me.
Going to see "grey hair" locksmith tomorrow, see if he can figure a way to re-code NOS lock cylinder to use my old key. Somebody does it when they assemble 'em. Don't want to give creeps at local Volvo dealer another dime if not absolutely necessary.

[JRL]

Once you understand them, know what used parts to buy and what new parts to buy plus where to buy new and used parts cheap, they're not any worse than many other cars.
This though has taken me YEARS to figure out.

I've had literal basket cases that in 2-3 weeks turned out to be as good and as reliable as my own personal Gen 1 Volvos (98-2000), but it does take some time.... like any other car will, to learn their idiosyncracies.
You also need to cultivate a VERY good relationship with your dealer, however sometimes that just isn't possible as many are total ripoffs and a-holes
In that area, I'm very blessed

[andybbrown]

I recently bought a 2000 V70XC and occasionally the ignition key would be difficult to remove or the key would just spin uselessly as though the lock cylinder was failing. So I found a...
Check to make sure your transmission is fully engaged into park or neutral before turning or removing key.

[JRL]

Check to make sure your transmission is fully engaged into park or neutral before turning or removing key.

What would that have to do with a spinning key?
(Hint, nothing!)
What you posted has to do with removing a stuck key

[Volvolocks]

well only few locksmith mess around with Volvo has those car have 2 main difficulty for average locksmith
high security key
key programming only with dealer tool
so only few of us invest and prsctice those car i will be more than happy to assist anyone with volvo key since i m a volvo owner myself and we all king of related and that the goal of this forum

[Volvolocks]

200 for a key with this kind of security level it s pretty affordable it s not a 2002 toyota metal key we talking about

[goldxc70]

IIRC= if I recall.
You know, standard internet shorthand

Actually, IIRC = If I Remember Correctly and it predates the Internet :)

[goldxc70]

nortons, while I share your pain, dare I say you should have come to this forum before going to eBay and you would have been guided along the right(eous) path. If you think Volvo parts and service are expensive, make sure you stay well away from BMW, Audi, MB, etc. At least with Volvo, there is this forum (as well as others) to help you out. Time to cut your losses and take JRL's advice.

[JRL]

Actually, IIRC = If I Remember Correctly and it predates the Internet :)

Means the same

[nortons]

Hey VOLVOLOCKS,
Can you help? Previous owner supplied new, unused, factory VOLVO ignition lock cylinder assy, but unfortunately, with wrong key. I did find a guy in California who says he can re-code lock cylinder to my key. says he does this for Volvo, VW, Audi, etc, dealers for western USA. But I have no way of verifying his claims; no references, etc, and I would sincerely hate to send off a pricy lock cylinder and my only spare key and have it disappear. You can contact me off forum at; [email protected]. Use "Volvo lock cylinder " in subject line to avoid spam delete.

[surfercalavera]

Try $400 to replace and program the FOB Key here in San Francisco! Ouch!

[nortons]

I found a locksmith in your area; South San Francisco that says he can re-code my lock cylinder for $80. Mailed today, can't give recommendation yet, we'll see!. Volvos have always had crappy lock cylinders, lots of posts here on that. My 242 Turbo has had the ignition key stuck in the cylinder for 15 years. Last time I took it out, I got stuck in a very bad neighborhood I had no business being in for a long time jiggling key until it would start car. Have only owned this 2000V70Xc for a year; both front door lock motors replaced along with driver window regulator motor. This car is a nightmare! Bought it to fix&flip to make money for 242V8 project; so far I'm losing money on this heap. Wife hates driving it, too, wants Chrysler minivan back= better mpg, regular gas, way cheaper to fix and insure, way more usable room. But, she does like those heated seats!

[Forkster]

Wow. $200 for a key is a great deal - my friend lost his F-150 key with remote start..only cost $475 to replace and reprogram (O N E K E Y).
And your driving a luxury station wagon.

And you can just at the fact you're driving a 13 year old vehicle is that still for its age very safe. Can't say that with any 2000 Dodge minivans I've seen. The most durable cars in the world are 1-Toyota, 2-Volvo, and 3 Mercedes (Consumers Reports/Car&Driver). If you put some money into your Volvo, it might ding you $1-2k per year, but how much is a new vehicle payment?

And you had to replace a window regular on a 13 year old car? Sounds normal wear and tear to me.

Just put it into perspective. The Volvo is good for 2-300'000 MILES. Keep up the maintenance and it'll keep you on the road and safe. The key issue may be a pain, but if you wanted a cheap to run car, get an older Toyota. Can't really go wrong there...just don't get hit in one.

[surfercalavera]

I found a locksmith in your area; South San Francisco that says he can re-code my lock cylinder for $80. Mailed today, can't give recommendation yet, we'll see!. Volvos have always had crappy lock cylinders, lots of posts here on that. My 242 Turbo has had the ignition key stuck in the cylinder for 15 years. Last time I took it out, I got stuck in a very bad neighborhood I had no business being in for a long time jiggling key until it would start car. Have only owned this 2000V70Xc for a year; both front door lock motors replaced along with driver window regulator motor. This car is a nightmare! Bought it to fix&flip to make money for 242V8 project; so far I'm losing money on this heap. Wife hates driving it, too, wants Chrysler minivan back= better mpg, regular gas, way cheaper to fix and insure, way more usable room. But, she does like those heated seats!


Yes, please update on how it goes and send me the info for the guy. Much appreciated.

[3p141592654]

Regular gas works fine in this car, that's why it has knock sensors. If you wanted better mileage, should have gone with the V70 as 4WD will cost you at least 1mpg from extra drivetrain losses. Is there a "grumpy old man" medal we can give nortons?

[JRL]

Where did that come from? This thread is about a KEY, not fuel (and they really don't run great).
A regular, steady diet of 87 regular will give you in the least a sluggish and a sometimes, ill running Volvo.
Will it damage anything no!
Will it make it even slower, yes!
Just not worth it, a TURBO, even a light pressure turbo, needs at least decent fuel

[3p141592654]

.... Wife hates driving it, too, wants Chrysler minivan back= better mpg, regular gas, way cheaper to fix and insure, way more usable room. But, she does like those heated seats!

Admittedly there's a lot of ranting to sift through, but I was responding to the above. Sure, you'll take a hit on timing maybe 4-8 degrees at times with regular gas, but for this guy if he wants to run regular he can. Given all the issues he's already got I doubt he'll notice much impact. As for the key, well he's apparently been driving some older cars. When I boughgt my 2000 brand new, it was a pretty big investment and I was glad it had an rfid in the key and a decent immobilizer. 13 years later I still have the same two keys and remotes. Replaced the batteries once and one remote got a new case. Even the cheapest car sold today (Nissan Versa 1.6 S) has rfid keys, and ABS, stability control, etc. Just the way it is. He need to recalibrate his expectations.

[nortons]

Update;
Still waiting for call from locksmith about re-coding ignition lock cylinder, so no word yet.
About grumbling about this car, I am a retired professional dealership mechanic, (among other things), though admittedly, I left working for car dealers in late '80s, BMW/M-B/GM/Nissan/Renault, to work for large auto company with good benefits package. I left the field on the leading edge of the electronic revolution, and it is a learning curve. Yeah, I am a cheapskate. Writing a check to pay someone to do work on my car is a sacrilege. I do 99% of EVERYTHING needed to keep my cars, bikes and truck safe and reliable, everything from glass replacement, to paint, to clutches, to brakes&suspension, to engine rebuilds and I tend to keep my vehicles for many years. Last car I sold had 200k and neighbor drives it to work every day.
I also make a side income fixing and flipping used cars and motorcycles and have a small business restoring award winning vintage British bikes. I'm no babe in the woods on this stuff. The problem is, of all the many dozens of vehicles I have bought, fixed and sold for decent profit, this PARTICULAR Volvo, (my first FWD) has been the worst. I love Volvos! I have 2 others; an '83 242 Turbo, owned since '86, now undergoing a Mustang V8 swap/restoration and a super clean '84 242 DL. Used to work on Volvo trade-ins all the time at BMW dealer. I would drive (and maintain!) the RWD Volvos forever, if I could find decent ones here in road salt corrosion heaven Michigan. The FWD/AWD cars are a different world. Junkyards are full of them, (clean ones, too!), that owners sent to scrapyard because repair costs, (almost universally auto transmissions and/or electrical problems), were more than car was worth. They go cheap around here, no matter the condition, much less than anywhere else in USA. I would guess, from lots of time watching Ebay prices, that avg. price sold here is maybe 40-60% of price in NW, Fla., Texas, etc. Blue book prices vary; quote $5500 to around $6500, but you can buy these around here all day for around $2000-$4000. Mostly because EVERYTHING rots away from road salt, no matter who makes it. Though much better than in years past, it's nothing to see 3 year old cars with rust bubbling through, and there is almost no such thing as a 10 year old Japan car. This car has zero rust, that is why I bought it.
So, yeah, I'm not happy with this particular Volvo and my story is a very common one. In a year and about 8k miles, I, (or PO) have replaced or repaired; 2 front window regulators, 2 power lock motors, a charcoal canister, both front wheel ABS sensors, a vehicle speed sensor, an alternator, all 4 rotors and 2 front calipers, radio speaker, power seat motors, low quality front seat leather covers replaced, ($$$$$!!!!), worn through and broken armrest, 6 bulbs in switches-(dealer wants $11 EACH!), a handful of inst. panel bulbs, sunroof leaks, water leaks at windshield, wind noise, 2 head lamp bulbs and a driving lamp bulb, R/H headlight wiper motor, 2 power window switches, 2 rotten door seals, repairing failing adhesive on all 4 door trim panels, replacing, (with salvage yard parts), most of the interior trim, and, don't forget=a transmission!, (see thread "Why won't trans shops touch my 2000 Volvo V70XC?" I did not have facilities at time to do trans swap and could not find shop in Detroit area who would touch car due to past bad experiences), ignition lock cylinder, non-functioning FOBs, and now, problems with ABS module and possibly ECU. More, too, coming; poor quality clear coat on hood is failing, so I'll have to repaint that, speedo is erratic, exhaust is looking "iffy", noises from AWD transfer case and a noisy fuel pump. Oh, and oil filters cost $20!!
I've spent countless hours and piles of money on this car and it only had 90k miles on it! Body is super clean and looks great. It is a great driving car, (when it runs!), comfortable, quick, good brakes, nice steering, etc, (though it only averages 16.1mpg on premium gas), but it just a huge PIA and I've dumped way too much into it to even break even on it, so I'm stuck driving it to get any use of the wads of cash and time I've put into it. I figured a low mileage, rust free car loaded with options, in decent but dirty condition for $800 was a chance to make a few bucks for my 242 V8 project. Since buying it, I've been stopped by a good number of current and former FWD/AWD Volvo owners and ALL say the same; "Yours? Nice looking car. I had one. NEVER AGAIN!"
But when I do sell it, soon I hope, it will be clean, safe, reliable and everything will work with no warning lights on dash. I don't sell junk to rip people off.
Doug

[nortons]

Lock cylinder assy. returned and re-coded to my spare key= $90 incl shipping. Having install problem, though. With cable installed key won't come out. Remove cable, key slides out easily. Steering lock OK. I'm doing something wrong. Won't recommend California locksmith who did work yet, until sure work was done correctly.

[nortons]

See thread "Ignition lock problems? Read this, Save money!" for source for ignition lock cylinder re-code and replacement/installation info. VERY PLEASED with service from "Premier Locksmith" Very highly recommended! $90 including shipping is a BARGAIN!!! Sent new, Volvo replacement lock cylinder assembly supplied by previous owner, but unfortunately with wrong key code for my car, to Elliot at Premier Locksmith in South San Francisco. Took about a week door to door, now works flawlessly with my keys, FOB, remote start, etc. Heck, I would even recommend sending a good, used, salvage yard lock cylinder out for re-code over the big bucks squeeze from the dealer! My local Volvo dealer wouldn't even order the way overpriced part unless I left the car, (est. 10 days!), and they installed lock at 1.5hrs at $125hr. I swapped out lock in my driveway in about 30 minutes while drinking a beer