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View Full Version : 2003 XC70 tranny won't go in reverse



WalterXC
03-26-2012, 12:56 PM
My son has this car and has had quite a few problems in the lasy 4 years. Now the tranny barely will move in reverse, shuddering.
I wonder what it will cost to repair or replace in North Jersey. There are a number of other mechanical issues of concern but less than a transmission. The exterior and interior are in excellent condition. The dashboard was replaced witha used one so the mileage is incorrect...estimated to be 110,000 to 130,000.
Any input will be greatly appreciated. He isn't a car type guy and I'm trying to help him out with advice on repairing or replacing this car. I have my 3rd Volvo and it is a 2000 V70 in very good condition.
Thank you!

Walter

Astro14
03-26-2012, 01:32 PM
Walter - did he check the fluid level? does he know how?

It could be a simple, cheap cause (low fluid level)...resulting from a lack of maintenance (fluid changes/flushes...I know, Volvo doesn't have a service interval...unless you read the fine print, and then there is one for severe use, which encompasses most daily driving...).

Of course, the next question is: how does it work in the forward gears? and since he's not a car guy, and likely doesn't pay attention until it's really bad, I suspect the answer is either: "it's fine" (but probably isn't) or "it's been doing that too" (in which case, you may be due for a replacement transmission...).

But check the fluid first.

WalterXC
03-26-2012, 03:17 PM
His mechanic said he needs a replacement...as of today I don't trust his indy mechanic.

WalterXC
03-26-2012, 03:23 PM
I should add, he had the car serviced reasonably regularly by this indy who sold him the car in 2008. My son almost surely did not check the fluid level. But we are now faced with the cost of repair or replacement.

drnukeit
03-26-2012, 09:15 PM
Walter,
Check the fluid level. I have found, through reading numerous posts here, that these cars are very a particular about fluid levels. If fluid is needed, be careful to use the correct oil type. Have you tried a drain and fill or even a flush and fill using the suggestions on this forum? Have you checked the tranny mounts?

Astro14
03-27-2012, 05:30 AM
Walter - you bring up some interesting, potential, conflicts of interest...if this guy sold you the car, he may, or may not, have been aware of a transmission problem. Even mechanics don't service transmissions regularly...though they should...part of that is the OEMs eliminating the service interval for most use...

An automatic transmission is a hydraulic unit (fundamentally) that is controlled electronically. An internal pump creates hydraulic pressure. Solenoids move valves and change the flow of hydraulic fluid to actuate parts of the transmission: engage gears, lock up the torque converter, etc. At the risk of being overly simple; each gear has a band, actuated by a servo (hydraulic cylinder), and when that band is clamped down on the gear set, that gear (reverse, 1st, 3rd, whatever) is engaged. Power from the engine flows through a fluid coupling, known as a torque converter, through the engaged gear set, to the output shaft and from there to the wheels via the axles...

So, in a trans that has problems, there are several possibilities: low operating (line) pressure from the transmission's fluid pump that means weak engagement of the bands, the bands themselves can be worn so that they don't securely hold the gear sets, or the actuator (servo) can be leaking or worn so that it doesn't hold the band tight. The excess band wear can come from extensive operation with low line pressure, that caused slippage, and wore out the bands.

There is a lot asked of the fluid in a transmission: it has to lubricate the moving parts, it has to act as the hydraulic fluid to actuate the parts, it has to dissipate the heat from friction, it has to suspend all the bits of metal and friction surface that wear and it has to be modified so that it's not too slippery - otherwise the bands could not grab the gear sets.

The most common failure mode for this trans is low line pressure caused by solenoid bore wear. The SLT solenoid controls the line pressure, but if it is worn, it can't develop enough line pressure and all the other parts of the trans suffer from operating with low line pressure.

The car is known for unreliable transmissions in that year, a large percentage have had failures and required replacement. That said, caught early, they can be saved, but your description implies that this is in the later stages of transmission failure...all the bands are likely shot.

IF the car's not moving, the trans is in trouble. A mount would cause a clunk, but the car would move OK...so, the issue is more serious. Low fluid level can lead to low line pressure - the pump is sucking air and can't develop pressure, that's where you start.

Worn fluid, or the incorrect fluid, will have the wrong viscosity for operation and as the modifiers wear out, it will have the wrong friction properties. So, your next step is to replace the fluid, or at least drain and refill. The trans holds about 8 QTs in total, draining it will yield about 3.5 QTs, so you're only going to replace half the fluid with a drain and fill. I prefer to flush this trans, and my method is the Gibbons method (Volvo XC site vernacular for a cooler line flush named after the guy who best described the process...see the resources section)

IF you drain and fill, be sure to refill only through the dipstick tube. There is a big bolt on top that looks like a great place to fill - but it is the B3 band anchor nut...loosen it, and you lose that band (and 3rd gear)...and there are some shop manuals that incorrectly direct the tech to fill the trans there.

Be sure you use only a JWS-3309 fluid. Toyota T-IV is the cheapest, most available form of that. DEXRON fluid should NOT be used, wrong friction properties...similarly, I would not use a universal fluid. The Volvo fluid is JWS-3309, but insanely priced at 4 times the Toyota fluid...and it's the same stuff...

Start by checking the level. Then try a Drain & Fill, or better, a flush.

Then let's see how it's working...if you can change your oil, you can do the flush. Get a case, or better, 16 Qts of T-IV from your local Toyota dealer...

acools
03-27-2012, 05:40 AM
Walter,

I agree with previous posters, you should give the fluids a shot first before moving on to more serious steps or even a new transmission.

I'm in Essex County, where are you (or rather where is your son and the car)?

Andres

WalterXC
03-27-2012, 10:20 AM
Thank you very, very much for taking the time to make such an in depth explanation. I am going to take the car to a dealer because I am not comfortable doing the work myself. I will return with the results of this visit. I am in Bergen.

billr99
03-27-2012, 10:26 AM
I am going to take the car to a dealer because I am not comfortable doing the work myself. I will return with the results of this visit.

Ouch!! Be prepare to take a major screwing even if its just low fluid level. My bet is that with what you have told us about this situation, they will try and get you into a tranny replacement at about $4K regardless of whether that is truly needed or not.

Good luck,

Bill

WalterXC
03-28-2012, 03:24 PM
Sorry to say to you good folks that the dealer reported that we need $10K of work so the car is not worth fixing. I have to believe it because they have been good to us for years in regard to our other 4 Volvos.
Apparently the exterior of the cat was no indicator of the mechanical disease.
We have given up hope and will sell it for whatever we can get, which is somewhere between $500and $1000 on a trade in...which means maybe $500.
I am in a state of shock because this is a physically beautiful vehicle from the exterior, and interior with new tires to boot.
I am recommending that my son buys a Japanese car...Toyota, Honda etc and no more Volvos.
I truly appreciate the feedback given here so kindly.
Astro14 is amazing may God bless you and we thank you!
Good bye,,

Walter

JRL
03-28-2012, 03:29 PM
Before you trade it for that little amount, send me an email with some pictures of it.
I'm not too far from you (and what was the dealer's estimate of 10K for exactly if I may ask as I can do most of whatever is wrong for a heck of a lot less than that, (probably for 1/2 that amount depending on exactly what it needs).
I've seen receipts form dealers adding up to $2500-$3000 that I could have done for $6-$800!
Jim
[email protected]

billr99
03-28-2012, 05:13 PM
Sorry to say to you good folks that the dealer reported that we need $10K of work so the car is not worth fixing. I have to believe it because they have been good to us for years in regard to our other 4 Volvos.
Apparently the exterior of the cat was no indicator of the mechanical disease.
We have given up hope and will sell it for whatever we can get, which is somewhere between $500and $1000 on a trade in...which means maybe $500.
I am in a state of shock because this is a physically beautiful vehicle from the exterior, and interior with new tires to boot.
I am recommending that my son buys a Japanese car...Toyota, Honda etc and no more Volvos.
I truly appreciate the feedback given here so kindly.
Astro14 is amazing may God bless you and we thank you!
Good bye,,

Walter

You are getting ripped. Give JRL a go. Way better than doing Japanese :eek: (which with the makes you've mentioned are actually mostly USA or Canada these days).

Good luck,

Bill

Astro14
03-28-2012, 05:25 PM
Yeah, I would say that the dealer is quoting you full retail...if you trade it in, I wouldn't be surprised to see your car back on the road in the hands of one of their mechanics, who fixed it for far less.

Frankly, that's how I ended up with my first Volvo. Owner couldn't afford to have the multitude of little things wrong with it fixed...he was quoted over $3,000 to fix it, I bought the car for $3,200, cash, put $5-600 in parts into it and had a $6,000+ car...drove it for 10 more years...until the tree fell on it...but I digress...

JRL is an honest broker, you can trust his diagnosis, and you'll have the benefit of a second opinion before diving in on a new ride...

drnukeit
03-28-2012, 09:40 PM
Hello,
I would suggest considering JRL and Astro14 suggestion. From what i have read in the many posts throughout this forum, these guys know their stuff. I have been helped by the ideas and suggestions they have given me and others.

It never hurts to try.

I hope it goes well. Keep us posted.

n00bkiller944
03-29-2012, 12:17 AM
And if JRL doesn't want it someone here will buy it from you. Hell I would buy it! :)