What is causing oil to pool here?

[mhrir]

So I took of the cover on top of the head so I could get at the bolt to change out the motor mount. What do I see sitting on top of the head?

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=85&pictureid=475

Oil sitting between the #2 and #3 coil packs. Thats strange. Then I looked at the oil filler cap...

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=85&pictureid=474

Hmmm. It appears that oil is getting past the cap and pooling onto the head. I checked the dipstick and it is slightly above the full mark but that is with a cold engine. I carefully inspected the rubber hose that is between the coil packs which I assume is part of the PCV system but it is dry and shows no evidence of leaking.

Any ideas?

[Astro14]

It's most likely the rubber gasket on your oil cap. They're cheap, prone to drying/cracking/leaking and I replace them on every other oil change for just this reason...

[billr99]

It's most likely the rubber gasket on your oil cap. They're cheap, prone to drying/cracking/leaking and I replace them on every other oil change for just this reason...

Very common white block "issue". I buy a half dozen gaskets at a whack from FCP and change every other oil change just like Astro. Which is actually a bit more frequent than needed, but cheap assurance I won't have an oily mess. Plus oil up there doesn't really do your coil leads any good either.

Cheers,

Bill

[mhrir]

Something simple for once...

I bought this car with 33k miles 3 weeks ago. So far it needs an upper motor mount and the outer shell of the resinator is rotting off(which I knew in advance), front wheel bearing (found out after putting on new tires), and now this which was missed in the pre-purchase inspection. I am not complaining mind you but this is turning into an adventure.

[billr99]

Something simple for once...

I bought this car with 33k miles 3 weeks ago. So far it needs an upper motor mount and the outer shell of the resinator is rotting off(which I knew in advance), front wheel bearing (found out after putting on new tires), and now this which was missed in the pre-purchase inspection. I am not complaining mind you but this is turning into an adventure.

Unfortunately, everything you describe is pretty much the typical stuff. Every white block I've bought has needed a filler gasket. Apparently Astro and I must be the only guys who change them on a regular basis. I've also needed an upper mount but I will say that my cars have usually had around 100K kms or a bit more when I have bought them. Keep in mind that the upper mount issue, unless you've checked yourself, is also a good one for "profit enhancement" by some shops. Not saying that they don't go a bit early, just saying. As far as wheel bearings, the XC has been the first Volvo I've had that has gone thru the OEM set. Have never had to replace a single one on any of my others, even after a bunch of miles. My feeling, so far, is that once the OEM ones are out of there, the replacement (I usually use FAG) ones seem to do better but I may not have put enough miles yet on my first replacement (maybe 100K or so at this point).

The other, perhaps more fundamental, problem I see with the XC, and just like other Volvo wagons, is that they are soccer mom cars to some extent. Owned and driven by those who do only a bit of maintenance, the basics. You know, as long as they start and the wheels don't fall off, it must be good. Every Volvo wagon I've had, going back to a '76 265, has been this way to some extent. So once you get the car in your hands and kind of catch up with the maintenance that should have been done all along, they actually hold up as good as any other Volvo. Interestingly, my most reliable Volvos have been a 744T (with TurboPlus BTW) and a 850R. Despite being the power Volvos of their day, I had to do next to nothing beyond normal oil changes and that basic maintenance. Odd, considering how easy it was to drive those cars hard. And I mean, real hard. "Driving hard" must be easier on a car than hauling the tribe across the country, I guess.

Anyway, get thru this first stuff, change your tranny fluid now and regularly hereafter, and the car will outlast you. Well, maybe not that long but it will do OK.

Have fun,

Bill

[mhrir]

Well I went into this with my eyes open thanks to this forum. Trans flush is today now that I have 24qt of Mobil 3309 and the rest of the parts. Still thinking about a Magnefine filter or a remote one using a PH16 filter.

Here is the old upper motor mount. Rubber is sheared on the top. I guess age is to blame since the car only has 33k.

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=87&pictureid=480

Here is the new mount from IPD.

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=87&pictureid=479

[juanpen]

I must be a rare case, but with 100k miles I've never had to change the oil cap, head is always clean, except when I had to change the pcv hose (ít´s a ´MY2005).

Seems that oil is a little dirty?

salu2
2005 XC70 2.5T manual

[mhrir]

Previous owner did last oil change at Volvo dealer in July at 31,700 miles so it can't be that dirty. No clue what was put in so I will be changing it soon. [thumbup]

[Astro14]

One other piece of advice: if you want it to last...go synthetic...Volvo may not require it, but they recommend it...and it is required for fixing sludged engines...You can search my "Oil Rant"...

Cheers,
Astro

[stupidloose]

IPD carries a silicone filler cap gasket to replace the oem one. I will be purchasing two of these on my next order.http://http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5884/21-0005-ipd-hd-viton-oil-cap-seal Not to computer saavy, But if I did this right, it should take you right there.

[stupidloose]

try this..http://www.ipdusa.com/product...n-oil-cap-seal

[stupidloose]

Sorry about this, But hpefully third times the charm. If this doesen't come up, Can someone tell me the proper way to input a link because I think I am missing something.http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5884/21-0005-ipd-hd-viton-oil-cap-seal

[Astro14]

Thanks - didn't know that was an option! Silicone should save a lot of trouble (replaced gaskets...) in the long run...:D

[Ars Gladius]

Mmm, good to know about the stock gasket and replacing it so frequently. Guess I've been lucky leak wise so far.

Just ordered the IPD synthetic gasket with my oil filter order.

[billr99]

Sorry about this, But hpefully third times the charm. If this doesen't come up, Can someone tell me the proper way to input a link because I think I am missing something.http://www.ipdusa.com/products/5884/21-0005-ipd-hd-viton-oil-cap-seal

Very cool idea. Thanks for the tip!

Cheers,

Bill

[sjonnie]

It's most likely the rubber gasket on your oil cap.
As I understand it, the purpose of the oil filler cap gasket is to prevent air being sucked into the crankcase, not to prevent oil escaping. If the PCV system is working as designed, the oil filler cap should be sucked onto the oil fill hole by the crank case vacuum. Even if the gasket was failing, the vacuum would tend to suck excess oil back into the engine, not spew it out all over the valve head. So what is happening to allow oil escape?

[Astro14]

Good question...I suspect (but don't know) that under boost (positive manifold pressure), there is positive crankcase pressure...the PCV won't be drawing air/vapor out when the manifold is pressurized...and during those conditions, vapor (and oil with it) would be forced out any weak spots...like a cracked or dried out cap gasket...

I found a little oil in the same spot on my car, more a film than pool, but noticeable...only possible source was the cap...changed the gasket, cleaned it, problem solved...

[billr99]

As I understand it, the purpose of the oil filler cap gasket is to prevent air being sucked into the crankcase, not to prevent oil escaping. If the PCV system is working as designed, the oil filler cap should be sucked onto the oil fill hole by the crank case vacuum. Even if the gasket was failing, the vacuum would tend to suck excess oil back into the engine, not spew it out all over the valve head. So what is happening to allow oil escape?

I've seen "seepage" on all my white blocks, turbo and non-turbo. So although the positive-vs-negative crankcase pressure makes sense if you see copious mounts of oil, I think that the more normal amounts are due more to oil weeping past the gasket. Although there is a windage tray right underneath the filler, if you have ever pull the cap while the engine is running there is a fair amount of oil being flung around by the cams and some of that, somehow, makes it past that tray and will come out the filler. Just like any gasket that is not really clamped tight, you get a bit of oil working its way into the gasket seal and then weeping past it. Over a few thousand miles, it is going to make a bit of a mess around the cap area. Now as I said, if you have a bunch laying there, then you have more than a gasket problem and you should sort your ventilation to make sure it is operating as it should.

My two cents

Cheers,

Bill

[mhrir]

The total amount of oil I cleaned up was less than 50ml and I have no idea how long it had been collecting since this car is new to me. The filler cap gasket looks old to me so hopefully replacing it will solve the problem and I will continue to monitor.

[n00bkiller944]

I change the filler cap gasket every two oil changes or I start to get oil pooling up just like your picture. I worked on a friends volvo that had the original gasket at like 80k... So much oil had pooled up and leaked that it got into the coil packs and was causing misfires...

[sjonnie]

I've seen "seepage" on all my white blocks, turbo and non-turbo. So although the positive-vs-negative crankcase pressure makes sense if you see copious mounts of oil, I think that the more normal amounts are due more to oil weeping past the gasket.
I remember when I found oil on my cylinder head like this the PCV system was also blocked, but I also remember the oil cap didn't fit very tightly, it's held on by those two little tabs and bending them in made it fit tighter, but it kept coming loose until I cleaned out the flame trap. I guess the positive crank case pressure kept pushing on the cap making it come loose. Unfortunately I can't remember if after that I replaced the oil cap or not, I know I replaced the 'O'-ring, anyway after cleaning the PCV system it fits and stays tight now. I wonder why the cap isn't a screw-thread? Cost? Convenience? Or is there some design requirement that necessitates the cap being able to come loose like it does?