misfiring codes- all of them

[Da Tow'd]

Howdy Gang,
98 V70xc with 230km
check engine light on
pulled the codes 300-301-302-303-304-305
all have to do with misfiring
any idea what could cause all of the cylinders to misfire?
thanks
hank

[JRL]

No one can
You have to start with a stage 0, a full tune up and go from there
You need to go thru all your tune up parts
Plugs, Wires, COIL and coil wire cap and rotor.

(I would look at the last two and the underlined before you do anything else if it's misfiring all over the place

[Da Tow'd]

thanks for the reply
We'll get right on it
cheers
hank

[deltajets]

Do a tune up(plugs,wires,cap,rotor)with all factory parts.I bought my car from a used car dealer 3 years ago.When I went to pick the car up he said the check eng light was on and showed the check eng codes for a misfire and he would need to fix it first.I did some research and found several posts about the problem all solved by a tune up with volvo parts.He did a tune up with whatever, code went away then came back a few days later.I told him what I had found and he sent it to the local volvo dealer,they did a tune up with volvo parts and all has been good since.From what I understand the plugs are the most important.

[Da Tow'd]

We installed new Volvo plugs and wires - new cap and rotor.
along with cam seals- new water pump- t belt

but I must have done something wrong as it will not start
I could not see the crank mark so I stuck a pencil down #1 cylinder and found TDC
cam slots are parallel
I'm still working on it maybe the crank sensor isn't working

[JRL]

Why wouldn't you get it running properly before you do a timing belt? :confused:
ONE THING AT A TIME

[Xilikon]

Why wouldn't you get it running properly before you do a timing belt? :confused:
ONE THING AT A TIME

Agreed, it's a bitch to troubleshoot when you changed too much at a time...

[deltajets]

double check your ignition wires and make sure they are in the correct firing order.Did the car fire up after the tune up but before the timing belt?

[Da Tow'd]

I agree but one thing led to another.

We did the T belt/water pump/ cam seals first then the tune up

Just a question
are the cam slots in position when #1 cylinder is at TDC?

[deltajets]

I think at this point the best thing to do is be sure you have the plug wires in the correct order,you put the distributor cap on in the correct orientation,then if still no start,pull all the covers off the timing belt and be sure the crank and the cams line up with their marks.When I do a timing belt I always pull the engine thru two revolutions by hand with a ratchet to be sure all the marks are aligned after the belt seats.sometimes things shift.If at this point all cks out good its time to look else where(fuel press,spark).good luck.Does the eng even sound like it wants to start ?

[StoningtonXC70]

Does it attempt to fire, but roughly, or do you have no indication of any spark at all? Rough firing but no start would indicate crossed wires from the cap to two or more plugs. I suspect something is amiss (pun intended) with either the cap, or more likely the rotor. Maybe a dumb question, but did you forget to put the new rotor back in when you put the distributor cap back on? Happened to me once. If it is there, as a diagnostic you might try putting the original rotor back in there in case there is a problem with the new one.

[vengeanceis]

No one can
You have to start with a stage 0, a full tune up and go from there
You need to go thru all your tune up parts
Plugs, Wires, COIL and coil wire cap and rotor.

(I would look at the last two and the underlined before you do anything else if it's misfiring all over the place

hey, I have a question

(1) how important are the coil wires? I see JRL is repeatedly saying: "replace coils AND WIRES.."
i think my wires itself are ok but I have all the looming (i'd say 70% of all wire length) crumpled and fallen off, is that a problem?

also, (2) has anyone tried these coils at fcpgroton (http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/91993/nm/Volvo+V70+Ignition+Coil+%28Direct+Ignition-1+Per+Cylinder%29+Aftermarket)? it says "aftermarket", but at $26.99 (-15% halloween sale) I find them very attractive price-wise (compared to $47 Bosch's ones) :confused:

(just to give some context: i'm facing rough idle now, no CEL codes though - I already ordered 5 new coils and a new OEM volvo spark plugs now, waiting for the order to arrive)


and, sorry, i actually have a third question:
(3) how is it common for "Volvo Genuine Spark Plugs Set of 5 (http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/9299/nm/Volvo+V70+Turbo+Genuine+Volvo+Spark+Plug+Set+%2819 98-2007%29)" not to have right gapping??? (i know recommended is .28 but i never bothered to verify the gap before installing before, should I? do they come at .28 sharp?)

cheers

[vengeanceis]

..and a small correction: my post (and part numbers) refer to 2001 V70XC

but anyways, i believe questioning is still valid

[Xilikon]

vengeanceis, when JRL mentionned coils and wires, he's talking about MY98 and earlier. as you noticed yourself, there are no coil wires, only electrical wires covered by a loom. At this age and mileage, the loom will always crumble (mine is the same, being from 2000).

Don't worry about that and just concentrate about changing all ignition coils. it's under 45$ each at IPD (either OEM or IPD HD) for cheap insurance and a smoother engine running.

As for the aftermarket coil you linked, avoid like plague since Volvos are sensitive to aftermarket parts which aren't build up to the tight specifications. The only exception is the IPD HD coils but at 44.95$ each, it's not much cheaper than the original ones (a few cents apart).

For the gap, it's a good habit to always check them even if if it's the OEM Volvo ones. All it take is a light tap on the electrode side to lose the proper gap and it's not always consistent from the manufacturer. I do check all the time myself since it's not taking much more time if you have a set of feeler gauges.

[JRL]

hey, I have a question

(1) how important are the coil wires? I see JRL is repeatedly saying: "replace coils AND WIRES.."
i think my wires itself are ok but I have all the looming (i'd say 70% of all wire length) crumpled and fallen off, is that a problem?

also, (2) has anyone tried these coils at fcpgroton (http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/91993/nm/Volvo+V70+Ignition+Coil+%28Direct+Ignition-1+Per+Cylinder%29+Aftermarket)? it says "aftermarket", but at $26.99 (-15% halloween sale) I find them very attractive price-wise (compared to $47 Bosch's ones) :confused:

(just to give some context: i'm facing rough idle now, no CEL codes though - I already ordered 5 new coils and a new OEM volvo spark plugs now, waiting for the order to arrive)


cheers
The OP has a 98, 99s and newer are different. You don't have a coil wire or any wires for that matter
If you have a miss you should be getting a check engine light

[Da Tow'd]

I spent the last few days checking the T belt but still haven't seen the marks on the crank so we stuck a pencil down #1 hole and got TDC
the rest of the marks seem close
I built a cam lock tool and things seem to line up
I turned the engine over with a 30mm socket many times that seems good with no interference
there is spark at the coil lead and I get spark at #1
spark plug wires are in the correct order on the cap

The fuel pump sounds like it is working and today I'll borrow a fuel pressure gauge
I sprayed starting fluid into the air cleaner and didn't even get a try to start.

I'll check everything again

[deltajets]

You've got to be certian that the crank is lined up correctly.Its been awhile since I've done this job but as I remember the mark on the crank is a bear to see,but you must be sure it lines up with the mark on the block, if not it could be out 180 deg and will not start.I would take all the covers off and be absolutely sure everything is lined up.The mark on the crank pulley is a little cut out in the valley of the crank gear it lines up with a mark on the eng block,the exhaust cam mark will be at approx one o'clock pos,the intake will be at around 11 o'clock,if your SURE of all your marks then you can move on.good luck.volvospeed.com has good pictures of the entire job including the timing marks.keep us updated I would like to know you got your car running again and how.

[Da Tow'd]

Tested the fuel pressure and got 32psi
I figured that would be good as it didn't fire with ether

dist rotor points to #1 ---cam marks are on
so
It has to be that the crank is out
I'll head it over to Volvospeed and see what there
thanks

[Da Tow'd]

After removing what looks like an "air vent " that goes to a plastic box with two computers in it to get a better view. That photo on volvospeed was a big help after turning the crank many times I finally saw the two notches in the crank pulley.

The distributor rotor faces about 5 o'clock instead of 10 o'oclock where #1 is

can we turn the intake cam to get the rotor to face 10 o'clock with out hitting a piston??

[JRL]

It's not that easy.
Did this start after a timing belt install?
EDIT
Nevermind I forgot you did but what it not running right before the belt?
For the life of me I can't fathom why you did a belt before you got it running properly!

You did too much at the same time and did not address the problem, now who knows!
Good luck, I wouldn't know where to start but you need someone who knows how to retime it properly before you go anywhere else and as I said, it's not that easy or that simple.

It's like my wife's V70R
It was in need of some work plus it was starting to make some light noise in the front and after installing new rear Nivomats the front noises REALLY were noticeable
So, after we replaced the front sway bar links it was 1000% better and I said let's stop here so I can drive it for a few days to make a new more precise list.... instead of going right to the rear looking for the other noises not really knowing what noises were left

[Da Tow'd]

quote "For the life of me I can't fathom why you did a belt before you got it running properly!"


It seemed that doing the "hard" parts of the tune up (T/belt -cam seals- w/p) the plugs and distributor wires -cap and rotor were the frosting on the tune up cake.

[JRL]

None of those is part of a "tune up" and should be done when everything else is nominal but you live and learn, right!

[deltajets]

I hate to even mention removing plugs after all you've gone thru but,if you remove your spark plugs you will be able to rotate your crank and your cams by hand(no compression)you can do it with them installed and use a wrench, but its easier with them out just stop if you feel any resistance.get everything lined up correctly and start your car,if you have'nt already.

[Da Tow'd]

Is there a way to test the Cam Sensor ?
I've pulled it off and read the resistance between the 3 contacts with my digital multimeter
there seems to be no continuty between any of the contacts

Also could someone confirm that the cam slots are
larger side up on Intake and smaller side up on the Exhaust
with the notches on the 2 crankshaft gear teeth between the raised marker on the "oil pump"

It seems that the cam sensor was the only part that was removed that would have anything to do with my no start.

I'm looking for the crank sensor to see if it got bumped while working on the many other things
thanks for the help
hank

[Da Tow'd]

The problem was a corroded /broken wire on the crank sensor computer side of the plug in connector
all is good
cheers
hank[thumbup]