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sparkplug
06-08-2011, 06:07 PM
Alright trying to gather my thoughts here.
2003 XC70 81K miles. preparing to do the timing belt this fall along with the water pump etc. I have been told by numerous "Volvo persons" that the water pumps lasts and I should not do it but I am going to do it regardless. I have the OE timing belt, cam seals, pump etc. from FCP.
So here is my question. Have I read to many threads on this subject and doomed myself to failure?
It seems to me that if I mark the cams and crank along with the timing belt, as in the number of teeth between the two cams before removing(provided I line them up before so) I should not need a locking device for the cams as in the one IPD sells. After the belt is removed I should (in therory) be able to turn booth exhaust and intake cams 360 degrees with no issue as long as they are aligned with the markings that I put on them before the disassemble. I ask this Q because of threads I have read regarding some kind of special locking tool that should have been used after someone has fault codes because of a tooth off. Or having to tow the car to the dealer.
I have VADIS and have read it. I have also viewed Howards information. Am I reading to much into this? I have replaced timming gears on chevy small blocks(327) and have done the bearings,brakes, control arms, fluids(all) etc on my XC so I am not imtimidated with this project, it seems, simple to me yet there are so many issues after the fact. what am I missing?( realize temp. is a factor on tension adj. etc.)

Q-ship
06-08-2011, 07:04 PM
I say do it.
You should know your skill level, and marking will be fine.

I think the tool is only a convenience, not a requirement. Many have done it without. I think its yet another "safety" device to help prevent a mishap.

kamiar
06-08-2011, 08:03 PM
I had an aftermarket water pump failed after 4-5 thousands kilometers, the original one failed at around 110,000 KM.

cattlecar
06-08-2011, 08:05 PM
You have one of the "easy" ones. The 99-2001 5 and 6 cylinders have a spring in the exhaust cam hub that can fight you and is the reason for the between gear lock tool. 2002 and later no longer have that in either hub and the belt gears will not move so readily when belt is slid off.
Take cover off, find all the marks and then paint mark things for higher confidence. The marks on the cam gears are faint on most and will not be in perfect alignment with the notch on underside of top belt cover. Your marks will stop the error that is made when one of those marks is off to one side and you fit a new belt and the mark ends up off to the other side the same amount.
Put on the belt and tension it and then turn engine two revolutions to bring all marks up again and re-check.

Q-ship
06-09-2011, 06:37 AM
Also, check the pump weep hole when you get in there.
If its dry, leave the pump in. I'd say at least 2 timing belts for the pump (maybe more)

haoz129
06-09-2011, 07:32 AM
Sparkplug,

I have same 2003 XC as you and I did mine TB last fall when car had 168kkm.
Good marking will do and I never had timing issue after. I didn't turn any wheel even I had marking.
My pump is good and I believe they last.

I am a lazy guy so I didn't take the big crank wheel off instead I wiggled the belt in. There is enough room for the belt out and in but don't force it. Twist is not good and any damage will lead to big trouble in the future.

All in all less than middle level skill needed but be very careful for the marking and tensioner adjusting.

Thanks.

Howard

jmoser
06-09-2011, 10:02 AM
Use a steel rule and Sharpie pen to make your own alignment marks on the cam gears, OEM markings on the flimsy plastic cover are just about useless.

MacNoob
06-09-2011, 10:14 AM
After the belt is removed I should (in therory) be able to turn booth exhaust and intake cams 360 degrees with no issue

Well, not unless you call valves hitting pistons "no issue".....

You will be able to move the cams a bit but you won't be able to turn them 360 as at some point the valves will hit whatever piston is at TDC. But you shouldn't need to turn the cams...

Astro14
06-09-2011, 07:38 PM
I've done the T-Belt twice...once on each Volvo. Getting the crank pulley off is a pain, I fabricated a tool...I'll have to try careful wiggling next time:D

The timing marks require care, and the marks on the cover are hard to see, I used a silver sharpie and highlighted them...

DON'T TURN THE CAMS...there is no need. Line everything up carefully by turning the crank pulley, and then be careful...did I mention to be careful? But turning the cams is asking for trouble, including interference and messing up the timing.

sparkplug
06-10-2011, 07:27 AM
Thanks for all the advice.
I don't plan on deliberately turning the cam's after the belt is removed, I have enough stress in my life.
Like I said I have the OE parts from FCP, I have read the issues some have experienced with after market parts.
If I have issues I can always open the sun roof fill the car with dirt and use it as a planter. Red roses maybe?
Ted