Tailgate Open warning

[bearbon]

I've had an intermittant Tailgate Open warning. The tailgate is closed but the cargo ceiling lamp is still lit. The warning cleared and the lamp went out after closing the tailgate several times. I opened up the wiring harness at the left hinge point and found two wires broken at a kink point in the harness. Heavier gauge wires Red and Black. They were obviously shorted together. What are these wires for? I separated the bare ends and checked for voltage between the red and black wires and read zero. Also checked from Red and Black to ground - still zero. The warning still reads tailgate open! I'll splice the wires back together but without a wiring diagram I don't know what I'm repairing. Help.:confused:

[bearbon]

I dug deeper and the Red/Black wires are for the rear window heater. There is only voltage to those wires when the window heat is selected. Apparently my wife hasn't tried to use it lately which is probably why the fuse wasn't blown. Anyway that doesn't solve my Tailgate Open problem. Hope someone has some suggestions. Meanwhile I'll probe deeper into the tailgate latch circuitry. [sly]

[Willy]

I am not sure whether you already found the wiring diagrams for your car.
Just in case: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo-wiring-diagrams/
Willy

[bearbon]

Thanks Willy, you da man! Actually I already found your link to the diagrams from you help to another member. I'm going through the diagrams now but I'm not used to Volvo's schematic layout. I've spent a lot of time troubleshooting aircraft wiring problems and the military wiring diagrams were a piece of cake compared to these Swedish hieroglyphs. Thank you much for your quick response!

[Jeremy]

I've had an intermittant Tailgate Open warning. The tailgate is closed but the cargo ceiling lamp is still lit. The warning cleared and the lamp went out after closing the tailgate several times. I opened up the wiring harness at the left hinge point and found two wires broken at a kink point in the harness. Heavier gauge wires Red and Black. They were obviously shorted together. What are these wires for? I separated the bare ends and checked for voltage between the red and black wires and read zero. Also checked from Red and Black to ground - still zero. The warning still reads tailgate open! I'll splice the wires back together but without a wiring diagram I don't know what I'm repairing. Help.:confused:

I had a topic a few years ago about same issue. There is a wire trace in the glass that is linked to open warning, part of alarm system. Look in this topic and scroll down for my post in it. http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10409&highlight=jeremy+open

Jeremy

[Willy]

I've spent a lot of time troubleshooting aircraft wiring problems and the military wiring diagrams were a piece of cake compared to these Swedish hieroglyphs.
Perhaps this document can provide some insight into these hieroglyphs [cool2]
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/Understanding_Euro_Wiring_Diagrams_Motor_Magazine_ April_2003.pdf
Willy

[jimplimpton]

I have a tailgate open warning and the rear compartment light stays on even when the tailgate is completely closed. I have opened the tail gate and activated the latch mechanism into the closed position and the warning goes away and light in the rear compartment goes off.

But when I open the latch and close the tailgate the again the warning comes on and the light in the rear compartment stays on. Does anyone have an idea on what may be causing this?

Thanks, Jim

[drnukeit]

I had the same issue. I found others had checked the wires on the left hinge when facing the rear lid. I found five cables broken and two others getting ready to break. I fixed them and the issue was resolved.

[bob]

There are 2 common causes fooor this problem. The wiring harness at the hinge, and the "no user serviceable parts inside" tailgate latch. the switch for the warning and dome lamps is inside the latch.

[elmwoodblues]

Ok, our problem is not so bad in that the gate opens, but won't lock. I took the trim off and everything seems smooth, no binding; however, when i replace the 10amp fuse in the rear box and work the fob, i hear it short out and then see the broken fuse. With nothing but a basic 12v tester, can anyone recommend my next move? I will be looking at the wiring that routes thru the hinge on the driver side in the meantime...

ps I noticed the small oval cutout just right of center, on the crease below where the licence plate bottoms out. Is there a keyway in there? If there is, I may bail on the whole problem and simply work the gate that way, as the backup that should have been there all the while!

[JRL]

Both of you probably need a new lock/actuator

[elmwoodblues]

As seen in pic, the heavier-gauge red/black wires were broken so completely as to have been cut, and three of the smaller wires had pronounced nicks in them, clean thru the insulation. Soldered/shrinkwrapped the big wires, and taped all the others.
Now, the fuse does not blow when actuating the fob, but the lock does not move, either.
Swapped first relay (19?) with another, same lack of response.

As previous reply implies, time for new actuator? Is that the same thing as a new latch, or what? What parts, exactly, do you think I need here?

Appreciate all replies,

Jim

[elmwoodblues]

UPDATE...after I put everything back together, I did not have a spare 10A fuse, so I pulled the top one out of the rear compartment fuse block and put it in the latch spot. That was when I got no power to the servo, and that was when I posted the last reply.

Now, having purchased a 10A fuse, I shoved it in to the slot, just to see what would happen. And, it worked. I do not know if pulling that top fuse affected the latch-gate slot, or the relay just needed time to reset, or Odin looked the other way, or what; alls I know is, the wiring repair DID seem to do the trick.

[crimsonv70]

Another tailgate open message here too. Came when I bought my volvo off craigslist, wish I had known it was a pain to fix :/ Im a handy techie, though not very experienced on cars (I repair laptops). This repair seems straightforward enough though..I would LOVE a picture or some info on how to actually open up the left hinge to get to the wiring. Ive scowered the internets and have found nothing. got the service manual dvd and that wasnt much help either (still figuring out the terrible navigation it has).

also, my alarm doesnt work :( though it seems like it should when tailgate it open (from what people are saying). red light blinks, but no flashing lights for arming. Panic button works so I know the siren is good...could this be related to the tailgate?

[crimsonv70]

OK, I opened up the hinge and found the wiring like elmwoodblues showed! red + black were sawed in half completely and a small grey wire was too. I resoldered them, put 2 layers of heat shrink tube around both, and lots of electrical tape to fix it. Im looking into what causes the pinch, looks like its only the plastic frame that clips onto the hinge...hard to believe that can cut through those thick wires! Im gonna dremel it down/look into a permanent fix.

I took lots of pics, including how to take apart the interior to get to the hinge...i can post em later.

EDIT: Here they are with descriptions.
http://s1197.photobucket.com/user/organic_unity/library/V70?sort=3&page=1

[crimsonv70]

Woops, deleted my last post on accident.

Good news: I fixed the tailgate issue and took lots of pictures for everyone!
The issue was the same as elmwoodblues: cut wires in the hinge.

LOTS OF PICTURES: http://s1197.photobucket.com/user/organic_unity/library/V70?sort=3&page=1

The fix:
1) take out dome light in tailgate ceiling. the clear plastic is clipped in.
2) unplug green connector
3) remove torx screw behind it.
4) remove 2nd torx scew in the other other ceiling plastic piece
5) remove hex bolt on left side plastic with 10mm socket.
6) pop out middle ceiling plastic
7) pop out side plastic with hex bit (only need it to come out half way)
8) pop out the corner plastic that goes behind the left hinge
9) cut the black zip tie holding the wire harness on the upper left corner
10) with the tail gate open, pop out the plastic thats clipped around the hinge
11) unplug the harness and pull it through the hole in the hinge (see pic).
12) unwrap the electrical tape on both ends of the harness
13) pull the mesh and plastic wire covering down as far as you can until u see the broken wires
14) resolder the wires with heat shrink tubing as much as possible
15) use a flat head screw driver to push the lock all the way in on the tailgate to see if the car thinks its closed now
16) put everything back together!

hope that helps some poor schmuck out there like me. <3 v70.

[Willy]

I think the alarm not working may be related to the tailgate problem.
The alarm will not arm when any of the door contacts is not in the closed position.
If the wiring of that switch is damaged, it explains why the alarm doesn't work.
It also explains why the turn indicators don't flash since this signals the activation of the alarm.
The alarm module has its known problems, but a broken wire in the tailgate wiring can be the cause of what you describe.
Willy

[Willy]

Double post. Can't delete, so...
Willy

[crimsonv70]

thanks willy.

i fixed the issue, but my thread posting it keeps getting removed. can a moderator tell me what Im doing wrong? Is it because I posted pictures on how to do the repair? That seems silly to me, Im just trying to help other members out. Please let me know what format my post should be in.

The issue is fixed and the alarm is working now too :) it was bad wires like elmwoodblues showed.

[Willy]

One repair, two problems solved [thumbup]
Unfortunately, this is not always the case ;)
Willy

[crimsonv70]

One repair, two problems solved [thumbup]
Unfortunately, this is not always the case ;)
Willy

Yep! Its nice :) Only problem left (and its a small but annoying one) is I get a "positition light failure" constantly. I adjust the bulb, cleaned contacts, bent out contacts etc, but its a finicky friggin socket. I might just hard wire it.

for the repair on the Tailgate Open see the other forums I posted it at: h t tp://www. v o l voforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=183861

[OnryV70]

Okay, time to rehash an old post-
I have a 2000 V70 with an odd problem, the cargo light & dash light come on when the tailgate is closed and go off when it's open. Any suggestions?
I've tested the micro switch and it functions with a bulb on in the open/ bulb off in the closed position.
I've check the left hinge wire harness and no broken wires.
Also the alarm doesn't arm unless the hatch latch is unplugged, if I try to arm it with the latch plugged in, I get P0600, no communication from immobilizer...
Everything else in the tailgate works, 3rd brake light, wiper/washer, etc, the locking mech even works...

[JRL]

2000? P80?
Bad lock
Buy a new or a used lock

[OnryV70]

Bought a used lock and the same thing happens. I ordered a new micro switch, I'll wait to see if that fixes the problem. I was thinking it could be a bad ground?

[Willy]

Yes, bad ground connections can cause all kinds of malfunctions.
However, bad grounds often result in erratic failures and from what you write
it seems that this is not the case.
If it turns out that the micro-switch isn't causing the problem(s), I would
check the wiring harness once more, if you haven't done so by pulling the
wires to see if they can be streched.
Willy

[OnryV70]

I checked the circuit today with a test light and I get positive when the latch is in the closed position and negative when it's in the open position. It's like the thing is wired in reverse. I can open the tailgate and lock the car and the alarm will arm but if you close the tailgate it wont arm? I'll check the wires again tomorrow as I'm off for 2 days. Thanks for the replies...