Cost of Replacing Accessory Belt and Tensioner?

[cheapo]

Last night the tensioner exploded and took the accessory belt with it.
This morning, I drove it to the 2nd closest repair place to my home. (There's a closer shop, just two blocks away, but this other one (Yuille Autoworks (http://yuilleautoworks.com/)) has a good reputation for Volvo service.)

They just got back to me with the quote: $413 + tax.

I am gonna pay it, I just want to know if I am getting hosed!

[kain]

I am assuming you are talking about the accessory belt tensioner. If I remember from when I did my timing belt this was a pretty easy change if you only needed to do the accessory belt however to change the tensioner (which I also did) I had to get at one of the bolts from the passenger side wheel well. You are prob looking at $100ish bucks in parts (maybe more if you go all OEM) and I would think a competent mechanic would be able to get this done in an hour. $413 seems high to me.

[Astro14]

Serpentine belt is $29 from IPD. Tensioner is $64.

To replace both is an hour or so, tops...

$200 - $250 seems reasonable to me...what are they charging for parts/labor?

[Aviator]

Cheapo

I priced your parts at VOH this afternoon. These are retail prices (what you would pay)....belt = $106.82, tensioner (not in stock BTW) = $164.94, which equals $286.76 total for parts. So that leaves $141.24 for labour which is not realistic, which means that they would mark up the parts from the prices I just gave you. VOH doesn't deliver either, so Yuille's would have to go get them, or have them couriered. A realistic labour amount (to me) would be an hour, and I'm sure their rate is not as high as VOH ($95/hr.), so I'm pretty sure you're still further ahead than if you had gone to VOH. Depending on the parts I go there for, I usually get 10-25% off them; I've gotten parts at cost there as well. If you're like me, you need the parts yesterday, so waiting it out is not an option.

Dave.

[margaret]

is that for oem replacement parts (http://www.racepages.com/replacement/)? looking for breakdown of the prices for the parts: Serpentine belt and Tensioner. but where did you bought those? i need it for my car. please help me on this one. thanks a lot!:o

[Astro14]

If you can wait a few days, better deals are often found on line.

IPD sells OEM parts (made by the OE suppliers, though they may/may not come in Volvo boxes, they are good quality parts) and they are very helpful with tech support: http://www.ipdusa.com/

Further, many dealers sell on line. E.G: http://www.discountvolvoparts.com/

I would try FCP Groton as well: http://www.fcpgroton.com/

Shop around - your local dealer may not have the best price, but if you need the part right away, they will give you a 10% discount for being part of VCOA or the High Mileage club - but you have to ask...

From FCP Groton site: tensioner - $64.99, belt - $32.00 and they're running a 15% off coupon and free shipping...IPD...tensioner $63.54 and belt $29.37...shop around...

[chipenter]

Or you can do what I did look on line , then go to the main dealer and say I can get the parts plus P & P for whatever can you match that , and they said yes picked them up next day .

[Zacharias]

Lucky you to have a dealer who has noticed we're in the 21st century.

In contrast, if I did that around here, I'd be the funny story around the staff lunch table for a day or two.

Let's just say I know where the local dealers have their heads, and it isn't where the sun is shining....


Or you can do what I did look on line , then go to the main dealer and say I can get the parts plus P & P for whatever can you match that , and they said yes picked them up next day .

[dpaton]

I agree - I ship to Ogdensburg NY and make the 40 min. trip. - the saving are worth it - the difference in the cost of filling your tank actually pays for the trip.

[cheapo]

Cheapo

I priced your parts at VOH this afternoon. These are retail prices (what you would pay)....belt = $106.82, tensioner (not in stock BTW) = $164.94, which equals $286.76 total for parts. So that leaves $141.24 for labour which is not realistic, which means that they would mark up the parts from the prices I just gave you. VOH doesn't deliver either, so Yuille's would have to go get them, or have them couriered. A realistic labour amount (to me) would be an hour, and I'm sure their rate is not as high as VOH ($95/hr.), so I'm pretty sure you're still further ahead than if you had gone to VOH. Depending on the parts I go there for, I usually get 10-25% off them; I've gotten parts at cost there as well. If you're like me, you need the parts yesterday, so waiting it out is not an option.

Dave.

Thanks Dave!
The parts costs on my invoice match your VoH numbers exactly. Labour was another $136, but I don't know the hourly rate.

Two days after this repair, we started noticing a gas smell near the car. The fuel filter was leaking. We took it in to Master Auto (http://www.masterauto.ca) (our usual mechanic) for repair and the mechanic noticed that the spring on our right front wheel was cracked!

Also, while I was looking for the gas leak, I noticed that the pan under the engine was coated in oil and had drips at a few locations. Our turbo has had a slow leak since we bought the car it last June, so I figured that was the source of the oil.

We had the oil leak looked at while the spring and fuel filter were being repaired. Fouad (the owner of Master Auto) washed the engine and diagnosed it as coming from the gasket between the engine and bell housing. He said we should leave it and keep an eye on it.

Sigh.

The turbo leak was never anything much—I was really enjoying owning a car that didn't leave spots all over the driveway!

Tough week.

[Aviator]

diagnosed it as coming from the gasket between the engine and bell housing.

There's no gasket between engine and bell housing!! Rear main seal leaking perhaps?

Dave.

[cheapo]

There's no gasket between engine and bell housing!!No wonder I can't find it at any of the online dealers!

I've been reading up, and I'm feeling pretty bummed about all this.
I've read that a clogged PCV system can cause high oil pressures that can cause an RMS leak...so now I have to consider the possibility that I will have to pay for a PCV overhaul/replacement in addition to the RMS repair...
Or, maybe the oil is leaking from a failed camshaft seal, and running down the back of the engine so that it looks like an RMS leak. And maybe some Seafoam would unclog everything or some Bar's Leaks would magically reseal the RMS. And on, and on.

I don't mind paying if I know it's going to fix a problem, but when one problem just leads to the next, car ownership becomes pretty depressing.

[Aviator]

Rear crank seal, rear main seal, rear crankshaft seal, sealing ring.

http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-V70XC70-P2/Engine/Engine-Mechanical/Front-&-Rear-Crankshaft-Seals/p-127-379-503-4000/

This should help.

Dave.

[cheapo]

...and my DIM information display started doing this (http://www.twitvid.com/XX6GC) today.

[Astro14]

OK - I haven't had this motor apart yet...but there shouldn't be any cam seals on the rear of the engine...only the front (passenger side, where the timing belt is that drives the cams...).

So, if it's leaking on the rear (driver's side) of the engine...it's a good bet that it's the rear main because it's the only thing there...

But, as you say, PCV problems can cause that, and I am guessing that you're near the mileage where PCV (flame trap) can become plugged. Further, your indy washed the engine and diagnosed it, so proceeding on the assumption that he was right, I would replace the flame trap system to preclude excess pressure on the engine seals, you're about due anyway...

Next step is an oil change with a good high mileage synthetic oil (synthetics clean better, and the high mileage formulations contain seal conditioners that soften seals and reduce leaks). I recommend Mobil ONE in 5W30. It will help clean the engine (likely you've got sludge anyway...) and soften the seals...http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_High_Mileage_5W-30.aspx

IF you're lucky, the new flame trap and the new oil will eliminate the leak at its source...

If not, well, then it's quite a pain to pull the trans and replace that seal...

On my old Volvo 850 wagon, I had a leaking rear main...I didn't know about flame traps...when I finally got around to replacing the flame trap, it was using a quart every 300 miles. After I replaced it, consumption went down to a quart every 800 miles...the car had 185K on it at the time...and at the time, oil was a lot cheaper than pulling the trans to replace the seal.

Wish that they were making high-mileage oil then...you bet I would have tried it! by the way, what year is your XC? How many miles?

cheers,

[cheapo]

My car is a 2003 with 218,000 km (135,460 mi).

[Astro14]

That's about the age/miles when the Flame trap seems to get plugged up...I personally haven't had the issue yet, but there are plenty of posts on it. You can get the whole kit from IPD: http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-V70XC70-P2/Engine/PCV-System/PCV-V70XC70-Turbo/p-127-379-927-4728/

Having done this on my 850 years ago, I would get the kit and replace all of the components...it's a pain to get in there and find out you need one more hose or fitting...it's a reasonable job if you're mechanically inclined, the only real special tool is a torque wrench to re-install the manifold.