StoningtonXC70
01-09-2011, 01:57 AM
Bad day....
Out of blue, car would not turn over. Ignition key did not "feel right". After several cycles of key, car finally turned over and started.
Stopped car at next destination. Again, no turn over on attempt to start. Again, key does not feel "right" - like its not going fully into the "start" position "III".
Checked battery voltage with DVM - full charge - 12.5 V, all lights bright. All connections look good.
Attempt many retries to make it crank - with headlights on, can see that lights go off while attempting to start (not just dim), can also hear a relay cycling on and off with key at start position. The dash idiot lights all stay on at full brightness like they normally do prior to an engine start. Headlights come back on when key released from start. I'm pretty sure that is normal the lights are turned off in the start position. No indication of voltage drop at battery when trying to start that one might expect from a locked up starter motor. Have 12.5 V on main power lead to starter.
During some attempts at starting, note that key is spinning freely around in ignition switch not engaging anything, eventually catches and everything seems to work works except still no starter action. Scary. Stop trying so I don't screw myself out of being able to activate the transmission shift lock override to get to neutral (requires being in position "I") to allow the car to roll for loading on and off the flatbed
Call AAA for flatbed home, while waiting, scope out Haynes starter circuit schematic. Suspect that voltage is not getting to starter solenoid due to either bad ignition switch (most likely, considering the "free spin" of the key), bad transmission PNP switch, or immobilizer circuit problem.
Flatbed guy shows up. He tries cycling the steering column up and down , shakes wheel, cycles switch numerous times. Says this often works on balky Volvo no starts. No start, but now key really spinning around freely more than engaging the ignition switch. Finally it engages enough so we can override the shift lock and get the car on the bed.
Got car home, going to troubleshoot further in the AM (snowing hard tonight). Will start by looking for voltage at the stater solenoid lead (small green lead) at the starter.
Did a search on this topic here on XC70 and on MVS. Looking most like bad tumbler or ignition switch. MVS has good tutorial on changing the switches in the column. From what I have seen regarding the immobilzer circuit, it should let you crank but engine will shut down. The Haynes schematic indicates that the starter inhibit relay needs a ground return through the immobilizer though.
If the infamous immobilizer antenna ring was disconnected in the steering column, would the system let the engine crank or not?
To further troubleshoot this problem, where is the starter inhibitor relay located? If I need a new ignition tumbler/key, am I into dealer involvement to reprogram things to recognize the new key? - if so I would be happy to just bypass the immobilizer circuit.
Any problem with me trying to to a "hotwire" starter circuit at least temporarily to feed 12V directly to the starter solenoid through a push button switch so the car can be started until a permanent repair can be made to the ignition switch/tumbler? I'm thinking this would only work if all of the other engine circuits are properly powered at the run "II" position, though, which may be a problem with the way the switch is behaving mechanically now.
Would appreciate any advice from anyone who has been down this road already....Thanks in advance....
Out of blue, car would not turn over. Ignition key did not "feel right". After several cycles of key, car finally turned over and started.
Stopped car at next destination. Again, no turn over on attempt to start. Again, key does not feel "right" - like its not going fully into the "start" position "III".
Checked battery voltage with DVM - full charge - 12.5 V, all lights bright. All connections look good.
Attempt many retries to make it crank - with headlights on, can see that lights go off while attempting to start (not just dim), can also hear a relay cycling on and off with key at start position. The dash idiot lights all stay on at full brightness like they normally do prior to an engine start. Headlights come back on when key released from start. I'm pretty sure that is normal the lights are turned off in the start position. No indication of voltage drop at battery when trying to start that one might expect from a locked up starter motor. Have 12.5 V on main power lead to starter.
During some attempts at starting, note that key is spinning freely around in ignition switch not engaging anything, eventually catches and everything seems to work works except still no starter action. Scary. Stop trying so I don't screw myself out of being able to activate the transmission shift lock override to get to neutral (requires being in position "I") to allow the car to roll for loading on and off the flatbed
Call AAA for flatbed home, while waiting, scope out Haynes starter circuit schematic. Suspect that voltage is not getting to starter solenoid due to either bad ignition switch (most likely, considering the "free spin" of the key), bad transmission PNP switch, or immobilizer circuit problem.
Flatbed guy shows up. He tries cycling the steering column up and down , shakes wheel, cycles switch numerous times. Says this often works on balky Volvo no starts. No start, but now key really spinning around freely more than engaging the ignition switch. Finally it engages enough so we can override the shift lock and get the car on the bed.
Got car home, going to troubleshoot further in the AM (snowing hard tonight). Will start by looking for voltage at the stater solenoid lead (small green lead) at the starter.
Did a search on this topic here on XC70 and on MVS. Looking most like bad tumbler or ignition switch. MVS has good tutorial on changing the switches in the column. From what I have seen regarding the immobilzer circuit, it should let you crank but engine will shut down. The Haynes schematic indicates that the starter inhibit relay needs a ground return through the immobilizer though.
If the infamous immobilizer antenna ring was disconnected in the steering column, would the system let the engine crank or not?
To further troubleshoot this problem, where is the starter inhibitor relay located? If I need a new ignition tumbler/key, am I into dealer involvement to reprogram things to recognize the new key? - if so I would be happy to just bypass the immobilizer circuit.
Any problem with me trying to to a "hotwire" starter circuit at least temporarily to feed 12V directly to the starter solenoid through a push button switch so the car can be started until a permanent repair can be made to the ignition switch/tumbler? I'm thinking this would only work if all of the other engine circuits are properly powered at the run "II" position, though, which may be a problem with the way the switch is behaving mechanically now.
Would appreciate any advice from anyone who has been down this road already....Thanks in advance....