View Full Version : 2000 v70xc, front rotor replacement
mrscullini
11-16-2010, 05:31 AM
i am preparing to replace the front rotors, it looks like there is only a center a bolt securing the rotor. is it as simple a removing this bolt and beating to remove? also is the passenger side reverse threaded?
BillAileo
11-16-2010, 05:47 AM
That center bolt does NOT attach the rotor. Its the axle bolt. Leave it in place.
You might want to check out this file from the resources section (even though it is not specifically for the 2000) to get a better idea what you will be dealing with:
http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/front-brake-discs.pdf
mrscullini
11-16-2010, 05:58 AM
That center bolt does NOT attach the rotor. Its the axle bolt. Leave it in place.
You might want to check out this file from the resources section (even though it is not specifically for the 2000) to get a better idea what you will be dealing with:
http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/front-brake-discs.pdf
thanks bill, that cold have been a royal pita.
it looks like i just need to remove the locating pin (and caliper) and then a slip fit between the rotor hub and axle hub. is this correct? if so, i can probably beat the hell out of it or use heat? i would imagine rust has adhered the rotor to the axle.
BillAileo
11-16-2010, 10:57 AM
I haven't had to use heat to get mine off but I have used a substantial hammer on the edges of the rotor. Since I was putting in new rotors I was not concerned about damaging the old ones.
mrscullini
11-17-2010, 07:02 AM
I haven't had to use heat to get mine off but I have used a substantial hammer on the edges of the rotor. Since I was putting in new rotors I was not concerned about damaging the old ones.
thanks bill, i figured this was the case.
any other pitfalls i should be aware of? it seems like a pretty straightforward job. i'll be working with a short timeline, like hours, with no ability to get additional parts.
BillAileo
11-17-2010, 07:33 AM
I'd recommend carefully cleaning the hub flange and lightly coating it with anit-seize before installing the new rotor. If your brake pads are also worn this is obviously a great time to replace them....
mrscullini
11-17-2010, 07:43 AM
I'd recommend carefully cleaning the hub flange and lightly coating it with anit-seize before installing the new rotor. If your brake pads are also worn this is obviously a great time to replace them....
thanks, good call on the anti-sieze. definitely replacing pads while i'm there.
Islander
06-03-2011, 05:02 PM
I just passed the half-way mark (one side on!) in doing a front rotor and pad job.
Three notes/additions to the resources article, http://volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/xc_front_brake_pad_replacement.pdf that other novices might find useful:
1.) The instructions say, "the locating pins, use hex socket 7 mm." The end of these pins are hidden from view. Trying to use what I thought of as a "7mm hex socket"--a normal 7mm socket--did not help remove those pins. In my tool world, what you need to use would be called a "7mm ALLEN wrench." You could use either an Allen-wrench socket or a normal "L" Allen wrench . (By the way, my fancy set of metric--bicycle-tool--Allen wrenches skipped from 6mm to 8mm. So, if you need to go to the hardware store to get one of these, do it BEFORE you put your car up on jack-stands!)
2.) You will need to compress the brake piston & boot in order to remove the old pads, and install the new ones. This takes quite a lot of force. I had to use a long screwdriver, as a pry wedged under the old pads, to gain enough gap to remove the old pads & caliper.
The new pads and rotor are much thicker than the old, worn-down assembly. I used a metal plate and a C-clamp, while the caliper was dangling next to the rotor, to compress the piston completely to allow clearance for the new, and much wider, brake-pad-and-rotor combination. Then, re-assembly was quite easy.
3.) As noted elsewhere in this thread, my old rotor/disk was pretty well stuck--corroded--to the hub. Like other posters, I didn't see any particular need to be gentle with it, so I gave it a little pop with a five-pound hammer. It surrendered immediately.
Now that I'm rested up, I'm ready to start on the other side...
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