2007 XC70 Transmission fluid change

[Walter]

Our car now has about 30K miles and from what I've read I should at least check the fluid level and condition.

Where is the dipstick?? Is it the same location as the earlier '01 and '02 transmissions? It is NOT front and center like our older 850.

I figured a drain and fill would be in order. Other than making sure I have the correct fluid, are there any "gotta knows" before I start??

Has there been any common trouble with this particular tranny model year?

Thanks

[TiredGeek]

Mainly just don't fill it through that nice big fill plug looking thing on the top [thumbup]

[BillAileo]

The dip stick is carefully hidden under the plumbing at the front of the car, driver's side. And in case you don't know what TiredGeek is referring too, DO NOT under any circumstances do anything with the big "fill" plug. It isn't a fill plug & you'll ruin your transmission if you remove it.

[Walter]

Thanks, Yes I read about the large plug on top of the Trans being the band anchor.

Just to confirm...I want a JWS3309 spec fluid. The only thing I can find locally is Mobil 1 Synthetic @ over $8.50 per quart. Do I want this or should I keep looking for a JWS 3309 NON-synthetic??

Will keep you posted on what I find in the meantime.

W

[BillAileo]

As long as you can afford it a 3309 synthetic is fine to use

[sjonnie]

Thanks, Yes I read about the large plug on top of the Trans being the band anchor.

Just to confirm...I want a JWS3309 spec fluid. The only thing I can find locally is Mobil 1 Synthetic @ over $8.50 per quart. Do I want this or should I keep looking for a JWS 3309 NON-synthetic??

Will keep you posted on what I find in the meantime.

W
You can get Mobil 3309 from IPD or avlube.com. Toyota Type IV is also JWS 3309 compliant and usually pretty cheap from Toyota dealers. The Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is a good choice, just an expensive one :D

[Walter]

OK, another question. What is the procedure for checking the fluid. I have looked and can't seems to find anything on the matter. I know it should be at operating temperature, but should it be running or in neutral or just park??

[jda2000]

P or N is fine, just run the shifter through all the gears for a few secs.

[JRL]

Make sure the fluid is HOT (car running for at least 30 minutes)
I would not be so worried about the fluid level as much as to CHANGE your fluid.
Your cheapest and best bet would be to use Toyota Type 1V
The NEW 3309 compliant Mobil one is fine if you're going to flush it but if you do a drain and fill, the Toyota fluid IS 3309 and the same as Volvo or Mobil 3309, (all the same, made by Mobil, lableled by Volvo and Toyota)

[Walter]

OK, will do. Hot in either P or N. Idling....correct?

I cannot locate Mobil 3309 locally, and we have a Toyota dealer nearby but still need to call them.

JRL, you are right, the Mobile 1 Syn. would be the way to go for a complete flush and fill but pricey ($8.50/Qt.) for just a periodic drain and fill. I would do a drain and fill on my old 850 every third oil change.

Will keep looking locally for Toyota IV or Mobil 3309.

[Walter]

I found Toyota -1V for $5.19/qt at the Toyota dealer and for $5.99/qt at Big "A" auto parts.

[WhiteXC70]

I have the same car with almost 30K on mine. I was going to go with the Mobil 1 synthetic. Just doing the drain and refil. From what I read, only about 3 to 4 qts comes out (of the 7.6 total). So I will be mixing the old with the new synthetic stuff. Mobil states "no problem" with mixing the two. Does anyone have any experience with the mixing of the original stuff already in the trans with the new mobil 1 syn stuff ???

Bought the fill funnel from IPD.

[awise1961]

I have the same car with almost 30K on mine. I was going to go with the Mobil 1 synthetic. Just doing the drain and refil. From what I read, only about 3 to 4 qts comes out (of the 7.6 total). So I will be mixing the old with the new synthetic stuff. Mobil states "no problem" with mixing the two. Does anyone have any experience with the mixing of the original stuff already in the trans with the new mobil 1 syn stuff ???

Bought the fill funnel from IPD.

I'm running that same mix in my wife's 2005 XC70 and have found no issues in the last eight months since doing so.

Al. Wise

[JayPinNC]

Doing my first drain/fill this Sunday. I've read good things about doing it once....driving a few hundred miles....then doing the drain/fill again as opposed to doing it twice in the same service.

Anyone have an opinion for against doing it this way? Or for?

I think the closest thing to a consensus is that we should be staying away from flushing.

[Walter]

If you are not noticing any problems such as really dark or burnt smelling fluid there really may not be a reason to flush it all out. A drain and fill of the ATF every third, or even every second engine oil change would be a reasonable preventative measure.

[Walter]

I completed the drain and fill. Used Toyota T-IV. It took approx. 3 1/3 qts. The old fluid was way darker than I had expected for a vehicle with 39K miles on it. Purchasing and using a long tube funnel which is small enough to fit inside of the dip stick tube is a MUST. Bought mine at Advance Auto. I measured what drained out and installed an equal amount. I need to check the level again after running it a while to get it nice and hot.

Don't forget to get and install a new drain plug crush gasket.

I think although I have some Toyota T-IV left over I will likely use the Mobil 1 synthetic JWS 3309 oil next time given the condition of the old oil this time. We do a moderate amount of mountainous driving and the transmission oil shows it.

[sjonnie]

I think the closest thing to a consensus is that we should be staying away from flushing.
I don't think there's any consensus, only a certain member here has a very vocal opinion about not flushing. Flushing by running the engine (as opposed to pressure flushing with an external machine) does nothing much differently from what happens during the normal operation of your transmission so I can see no reason to imagine that it would suddenly stop working as a result. The new fluid will have the correct viscosity and contain more antioxidants than the old, so why not replace it all? From my experience I would say that my transmission felt different after flushing, but then I did not get a dealer TCM reset so maybe it took a while to adapt. I flushed the transmission at 125K (dark brown fluid) and again at 145K (the fluid was brown again already). Now at 156K and it's holding up well.

[sjonnie]

We do a moderate amount of mountainous driving and the transmission oil shows it.
Install a transmission cooler, it is a travesty that this car comes without one.

[acools]

I power flushed my MY04 when it had about 77K miles on it.

This involves disconnecting the transmission line from the cooler(?) and running the car until it pumps out about two quarts and refilling.

You repeat this four times until the fluid is pink and clear. I used Mobil 1's 3309 fluid, new connector and a funnel from IPD.

I did this a little over a year and 10K miles ago, and have experienced no problems

The argument not to perform a power flush is that an older transmission, with metallic debris suspended in the fluid might have had wear in the bands and clutch packs. This 'thicker' fluid with the suspended debris might run fine with the debris but the new fluid might be thinner and cause the transmission to stop functioning.

Best, A. Cools

[RockitShip]

Install a transmission cooler, it is a travesty that this car comes without one.

What?! No trans. cooler? Don't the lines run into what looks like a radiator when people do their flush... where are the lines running to?

[Walter]

Perhaps an aux. trans cooler in addition to the factory cooler is what was intended?