Right Front Turn Signal 2001 V70XC

[Thor]

Last year, my right front turn signal stopped working (the other signals began flashing faster than normal and a message indicate turn signal failure). Visual inspection confirmed the signal to be malfunctioning. The mechanic I took the car to changed the bulb and this worked for a few days. Then it started malfunctioning again, and this time the mechanic added an additional ground to the circuit. From then to now, it would sporadically stop working for a day or two and then start working on its own.

Last week, this happened again, but it started working again after today. Now it stopped working two days ago right after I took it to a different mechanic for inspection; it still doesn't work.

Does anyone have any experience with a similar situation (I feel like taking it to the mechanic again would be useless without a better understanding of what's going on). Perhaps different coefficients of thermal expansion in the circuitry could be to blame? (today it's 25C and it wasn't acting up as much during the winter months). Is it possible to perform a circuit trace with multimeter? If so, how much would this cost and where could I get a circuit diagram with specified resistances?

Thank You,
Thor, '01 V70XC
Toronto

[Aviator]

Let's cut to the chase.....the socket is shot. What happens is the ground contacts inside the socket begin to arc and create a burnt area through which the ground circuit can't be completed because of high resistance; hence your mechanic's thinking on an additional ground, but the problem is in the socket. I was lucky enough to repair my LF one last year by dissecting it and doing some soldering. Replace the socket and remove the additional ground wire. Make sure that dielectric grease is installed in the socket before the bulb is put in. A new socket at my local dealer is about $65. Being in TO, you may pay slightly less.


Is it possible to perform a circuit trace with multimeter? If so, how much would this cost and where could I get a circuit diagram with specified resistances?

As far as testing circuits, you would have zero resistance through the wiring. The resistance (load) is the bulb, and you don't need a meter to test that. The filament/s is/are either complete or open.

Dave.

[Thor]

Hi Dave,

Thank you for your prompt and informative reply. I shall have the socket replaced, the extra ground removed and be sure to mention the dielectric grease. Your suggestion is the first ray of hope after months of being haunted by this electrical poltergeist.

Thank you once again, I'll be sure to report the outcome of following through with the advice.


-Bill

[Thor]

Just wanted to give a quick update to anyone with a similar problem.

After following Dave's advice inspecting the socket, the mechanic I took my Volvo to said the socket was fine (it was replaced last year) but the contacts were corroded. So I told him to clean the socket and apply dielectric grease as Dave suggested and two weeks later, IT STILL WORKS! :)

I was reluctant to give an update until it was certain the problem was resolved.

Thanks Dave!

[kamiar]

Glad to hear your problem is no more... Dave's advises are almost always to the point, i never forget the issue i had with my CVVT and the only person had brought that u was Dave and saved me big $$$$.

[Aviator]

Glad to be of help to as many of you as possible, but it is the collective input from everyone that is most important so that we all benefit.

Dave.

[JRC19S]

You know I had this problem with the left front indicator in my V70xc.

It was the socket as you point out. I cleaned it up wiuth emery etc but still no reliable contact. So I put a bit (eg 1/2 mm thick) of soft solder on the male parts of the coupling to make them a bit thicker and still conductive...and hey presto no joint problems. Just hope the heat of running the light doesn't solder it permanently but thats a risk I thought worth taking.