I'm on a mission to de-varnish my engine.

[Allen]

I re-did my spark plug job today.

I found no problems with the plugs or the plug holes. I re-applied a healthy dose of Amsoil PowerFoam to the cylinders again, letting them soak for around a half-hour.

I did find the torque values were not equal across the five cylinders. All equal now, all back together again, and the car idles perfectly now. I can feel the vibes still, but the vibes are consistent, not rumbly and unstable. Smooth and consistent.

The car's running like a champ, better than it has the last three years I've owned it.

I took my Surefire bright-ass'd flashlight and peered into the oil filler hole. It was not easy seeing past the louvres, but the Surefire torch helped a great deal. I saw LOTS of varnish on the camshaft. :eek:

So I've got filthy black piston heads, and varnished camshafts.

I added a bottle of SeaFoam to the oil today, and will keep doing it....probably forever.

I've used AutoRx before, and it's a good product, but I want to use a product that's easily found locally, like my BAP/Geon shop.

If someone can assure me that ARX works better than SeaFoam, then I will use. I did run a dose of ARX in my tranny for about a year. It helped the tranny shift smoother while in there, and I think ARX is the reason this latest tranny drain/fill has been so effective. It's shifting quickly and smartly.

On a side note, I want to buy some of those top engine mount converter kits that turns the top engine mount brace into a genuine strut brace. I've read good reviews of having the brace mounted solidly instead of on sloppy bushings.

On another side note, the right rear passenger seatbelt had become locked, and unusable. The little button that's mounted in the belt fabric that prevents the belt from retracting too far into the re-coil unit had broken off. When I laid the seat down for hauling long stuff, the belt retracted too far into the re-coil unit, and I couldn't get it to release the belt. This created a serious problem for me when I haul my kids around. I had to raise the seat back up with the belt locked, and this put tremendous tension on the belt, which compressed the leather deeply.

So today I pulled the little side cushion out of the way, got down in there with a socket and ratchet, and slowly loosened the belt mount screw hoping it wouldn't fly off and bust my jaw apart.

All went well, no injuries, and actually found the remains of the broken button from the belt under the bottom seat cushion. I didn't have a replacement button, so I installed a small zip-tie in the belt which performs the belt-stop function perfectly. Yes, I'm going to buy a proper button for the belt. [thumbup]

This heavy varnish issue has got me thinking that maybe the PCV system is not functioning properly.

Any advice on attacking this? :)

[JRL]

Seafoam works well on Volvos, just don't overdo it!
Follow the instructions, add in all THREE places then change the oil afterwards you drive it for 20-50 miles.
If you want to repeat the process, wait 500 miles

[ChazzyD]

Allen, your cracking me up. :D Let a high quality oil do it's job. Run synthetic with a low mileage change interval until the engine is clean enough on the inside for your liking and then go to a longer interval. Don't keep washing the oil off your cylinder walls doing the stuff your doing, that will not be good. Black stuff happens inside an internal combustion engine, don't let it cause you to do real harm. [sly]
Charles

[Allen]

Allen, your cracking me up. :D Let a high quality oil do it's job. Run synthetic with a low mileage change interval until the engine is clean enough on the inside for your liking and then go to a longer interval. Don't keep washing the oil off your cylinder walls doing the stuff your doing, that will not be good. Black stuff happens inside an internal combustion engine, don't let it cause you to do real harm. [sly]
Charles

I hear ya, but I've run German Castrol and Amsoil 0W30 primarily, seems I should have a fairly clean engine by now, but alas, I don't.

Like I said, I'm on a mission, and I will not be swayed!

But you're right, combustion by-products will always be present.

Nonetheless, this car's running strong as hell!

[Allen]

Seafoam works well on Volvos, just don't overdo it!
Follow the instructions, add in all THREE places then change the oil afterwards you drive it for 20-50 miles.
If you want to repeat the process, wait 500 miles

I already know you know what you're talking about, but why do you recommend this?

[Forkster]

The 'cleaning' elements of SeaFoam work a little TOO good if you keep it in the engine too long. If you leave it in it will eventually strip all your seals and then start on the gaskets - and that's a bad place to be in a Volvo engine. Yes, your engine will probably be as clean as a new-off-the-factory-floor XC70, but take the advice and drail the oil ASAP in 20-50 miles.

On my can of Seafoam, it states if you pour it into the crankcase - to just run it 10 minutes and drain. What does it state on your can?

[Allen]

The 'cleaning' elements of SeaFoam work a little TOO good if you keep it in the engine too long. If you leave it in it will eventually strip all your seals and then start on the gaskets - and that's a bad place to be in a Volvo engine. Yes, your engine will probably be as clean as a new-off-the-factory-floor XC70, but take the advice and drail the oil ASAP in 20-50 miles.

On my can of Seafoam, it states if you pour it into the crankcase - to just run it 10 minutes and drain. What does it state on your can?

It states run for the duration, but at a lesser dose. :)

[gonzomech]

hi allen,

at 165K i did my pcv system clean/change out (flame trap, hoses, etc.) and cleaned my throttle body (using volvo cleaner H). with the intake off i could see the valves...they were pristine!

since owning the car at 42K i have done oil changes with mobil1 every 5K-7K miles and with every oil change dump a bottle of chevron techcron fuel concentrate into the gas tank.

happy motoring!

gonzo

[JayPinNC]

Allen, glad to hear everything worked out well with the plugs.

I'm contemplating tackling my PCV system (replacement kit, not screwing around trying to clean stuff). I get smoke coming from my oil fill hole and dipstick tube.

Is there a definitive resource on how to get the intake manifold off and all the other stuff needed to do the job? I can handle the job, but there are only certain things I won't do without some directions.

I also have some serious varnish going on.

My Varnish, My Volvo. (http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/P8Z0EPAmebN-VToFWOn06A?feat=directlink)

[sjonnie]

I'm contemplating tackling my PCV system (replacement kit, not screwing around trying to clean stuff). I get smoke coming from my oil fill hole and dipstick tube.

Is there a definitive resource on how to get the intake manifold off and all the other stuff needed to do the job? I can handle the job, but there are only certain things I won't do without some directions.


Replacement kit is probably a good idea, considering the hassle it is to take everything apart, clean it and then put it back together, it's probably worth spending the extra $$ for the replacement kit.

The only definitive resource I know is VADIS :D

You will need to remove, all the air charge lines, the vacuum lines to the intake manifold, the power steering pump (just undo the high-pressure outlet line and plug it, move the pump to one side), the fuel rail and injectors, the thermostat housing (MY02- partially drain the cooling system) and maybe the throttle body (good time to clean this anyway).

To reinstall you will need a new intake manifold gasket, a throttle body gasket and thermostat housing gasket plus the new flame trap kit.

[JayPinNC]

Replacement kit is probably a good idea, considering the hassle it is to take everything apart, clean it and then put it back together, it's probably worth spending the extra $$ for the replacement kit.

The only definitive resource I know is VADIS :D

You will need to remove, all the air charge lines, the vacuum lines to the intake manifold, the power steering pump (just undo the high-pressure outlet line and plug it, move the pump to one side), the fuel rail and injectors, the thermostat housing (MY02- partially drain the cooling system) and maybe the throttle body (good time to clean this anyway).

To reinstall you will need a new intake manifold gasket, a throttle body gasket and thermostat housing gasket plus the new flame trap kit.

Thanks. I have access to VADIS, but I need a spare Windows laptop to run it. I'm on a Mac.

I think it'll be a weekend project....drain/flush coolant at the same time. I'm slowly building up my confidence after tackling the heater core a few weeks ago. Like I said, if I have the instructions I can do it. Maybe I'll find a laptop to borrow - anyone in Raleigh have one??

[kamiar]

Thanks. I have access to VADIS, but I need a spare Windows laptop to run it. I'm on a Mac.

I think it'll be a weekend project....drain/flush coolant at the same time. I'm slowly building up my confidence after tackling the heater core a few weeks ago. Like I said, if I have the instructions I can do it. Maybe I'll find a laptop to borrow - anyone in Raleigh have one??

Install a Windows emulator for Mac and install it that way...

[JayPinNC]

Install a Windows emulator for Mac and install it that way...

Don't leave me hanging...suggest an emulator. WineHQ? Others?

[kamiar]

I am not a Mac user, but I know this will work http://www.virtualbox.org

[billr99]

Don't leave me hanging...suggest an emulator. WineHQ? Others?

I run both VADIS and VIDA on a Mac so here's what you need to do (assuming you have an Intel-based Mac). Get hold of either Parallels (http://www.parallels.com) or VMWare Fusion (http://www.vmware.com/products/fusion/). They are fairly cheap if you decide to be legit but they are also out there as torrents. If you just want to just give it a try, both have free 30 days trial fully-functional versions.

Any road, in either app, you set up a Windows virtual machine (VM). If you want to do VIDA use a XP, SP2 VM. VIDA will not install on anything newer than XP and the SP2 is recommended by the documentation. For VADIS, you can use what ever you want for a Windows version as long as it is XP or newer. I'm using a Win 7-64 bit for my setup. So once you get your VM setup, you simply install VADIS or VIDA like you would any Windows-based software. Nothing fancy or hard is required to setup either the VM or the Volvo software. All pretty self-explanatory once you get going on it.

Personally, I find the VADIS interface a bit easier to use, but VIDA has more up-to-date information. But give it a go and if you have any questions, just shoot me an e-mail and I can try and help.

Cheers,

Bill

[billr99]

I am not a Mac user, but I know this will work http://www.virtualbox.org

I am trying this now and so far in comparison to Parallels or VMWare; its a bit clunkier, especially in terms of video performance. I'm running these VM products on a late 2008 2.4gHz iMac with 4G RAM and 128M VRAM so the VirtualBox video processing might be hampered by my low VRAM but it doesn't hurt the others which have their own specialized video drivers for Windows versions. Anyway, I refer you to my other post on this thread in regard to the other VM products that are available.

Again, if anyone has any questions on this, just e-mail me.

Cheers,

Bill

[JayPinNC]

I run both VADIS and VIDA on a Mac so here's what you need to do (assuming you have an Intel-based Mac). Get hold of either Parallels (http://www.parallels.com) or VMWare Fusion (http://www.vmware.com/products/fusion/). They are fairly cheap if you decide to be legit but they are also out there as torrents. If you just want to just give it a try, both have free 30 days trial fully-functional versions.

Any road, in either app, you set up a Windows virtual machine (VM). If you want to do VIDA use a XP, SP2 VM. VIDA will not install on anything newer than XP and the SP2 is recommended by the documentation. For VADIS, you can use what ever you want for a Windows version as long as it is XP or newer. I'm using a Win 7-64 bit for my setup. So once you get your VM setup, you simply install VADIS or VIDA like you would any Windows-based software. Nothing fancy or hard is required to setup either the VM or the Volvo software. All pretty self-explanatory once you get going on it.

Personally, I find the VADIS interface a bit easier to use, but VIDA has more up-to-date information. But give it a go and if you have any questions, just shoot me an e-mail and I can try and help.

Cheers,

Bill

Thanks. I installed VMWare and just need to locate a copy of XP SP2.

[sjonnie]

Any advice on attacking this? :)
Haven't tried Seafoam, AutoRx did absolutely nothing, biggest waste of $40 ever. Advance Auto Parts have a 2:1 special on Techron though, so I bought 2. Techron is that stuff they actually use in gasoline, so I figured it had to have some effect. Used 'em on a 1200mi road trip last weekend, they have cleaned out the oil inlet where you see varnishing pretty good. Going to keep using them this month and then change out the oil. I will probably follow the advice on the label and run a bottle of Techron every oil change from now on. I can pick them up at Walmart with my Mobil1 for $7 [thumbup]

[JayPinNC]

I did one dose of Seafoam when I first got the car about 6 weeks ago. I noticed a slight difference. I know there's no magic bullet, so I'm being patient and will do Seafoam on a regular basis.

[Allen]

My car's running great after 130 miles with Seafoam in the oil.
Will change oil very soon, switching to Pennzoil Ultra 5W20.

[lexefx]

My car's running great after 130 miles with Seafoam in the oil.
Will change oil very soon, switching to Pennzoil Ultra 5W20.

Whats the thinking on the lower hot weight oil?

I have had luck doing just the opposite.

[Allen]

Whats the thinking on the lower hot weight oil?

I have had luck doing just the opposite.


Drag on the engine slows down the throttle response. My engine is much more responsive on lighter oil.