Urgent SRS service required [Archive]

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Ocean Racer

01-24-2010, 12:06 AM

I started the car at lunch time today and was greeted with an orange warning message "Urgent SRS service required."
I have checked the fuses and disconnected the battery but the problem persists. :confused:

Any suggestions ?

Ocean Racer

01-24-2010, 03:13 AM

I found the cause.
I had removed the CCM to hardwire my radar detector - then had to suddenly install it to close the windows as it started to rain.

JRL

01-24-2010, 05:46 AM

and you didn't disconnect the battery like you're supposed to......right?

Ocean Racer

01-24-2010, 06:21 AM

I didnt disconnect the battery because i needed to know +ve and -ve of my power source and to test my connection prior to putting it all back together again. Plus I was neive to think disconnecting the CCM would'nt cause such an issue.

I have been modifying cars for over 10 years, stripping them to their shell and back again without hassles. Why does Volvo have to be so difficult/different and have their CCM as backbone to the cars OBD system :confused:

Chilled Man

01-24-2010, 07:46 AM

LOL who konws

Aviator

01-24-2010, 07:56 AM

Off to the dealer you go!!

Dave.

billr99

01-24-2010, 08:05 AM

I have been modifying cars for over 10 years, stripping them to their shell and back again without hassles. Why does Volvo have to be so difficult/different and have their CCM as backbone to the cars OBD system :confused:

Kind of makes those old cars, like my old Land Rovers, with 2 fuse electrical systems pretty cool, eh? Ah, to go back to the day when cars where cars and men where...well, working on them all the time.

Cheers,

Bill

Ocean Racer

01-24-2010, 07:08 PM

Dealer has quoted $88 / 1.5hr job.
- to simply plug in the VADIS and reset the ECU
:rolleyes:

billr99

01-24-2010, 08:35 PM

Dealer has quoted $88 / 1.5hr job.
- to simply plug in the VADIS and reset the ECU
:rolleyes:
What a scam. [cussing] The real problem is that nearly all the new cars regardless of manufacturer have this kind of stuff. So much for trying to keep your own car up to snuff yourself.:(

Cheers,

Bill

Giles

01-24-2010, 11:36 PM

Dealer has quoted $88 / 1.5hr job.
- to simply plug in the VADIS and reset the ECU
:rolleyes:

Hi Ocean Racer,

Seems like the Volvo "Warning Indicator Curse" has struck again.

I found this, worth a try if nothing else.

You can also "reset" your ecu by disconnecting the battery for 1hr. + and the reconnecting the battery, starting the car, letting it idle for 15 minutes (in this period, be sure to leave the car alone, as it is re-mapping the air/fuel/throttle maps), turn the car off, then back on, and you should be good to go!

Regards,

Giles

Ocean Racer

01-25-2010, 12:48 AM

cheers mate, i'll try that tonight. [thumbup]

Ocean Racer

01-25-2010, 04:58 AM

The reset trick failed [nonono]:(

billr99

01-25-2010, 05:19 AM

The reset trick failed [nonono]:(

A battery disconnect will not work to reset a SRS light. That requires a hook-up and your friendly local dealer :D Must be part of the regulation or something as that has been the way it is even back to the 850 days. I've read where the BSR PPC tool (http://www.ppc-diagnostic.com/) will clear them as well as read many codes that a standard OBD2 scanner will not. Might be worth consideration.

Good Luck,

Bill

Ocean Racer

01-25-2010, 05:43 AM

Bill, I have considered it but where can I get one from?
That site is out of stock

billr99

01-25-2010, 10:48 AM

Bill, I have considered it but where can I get one from?
That site is out of stock
Yeah, I noticed that after I posted. Sorry.

I have seen them out on eBay occasionally (actually one out there now) and I've seen a couple out on the classifieds of the other Volvo sites (VolvoSpeed, etc.). Might be worth just keeping your eyes open for now.

One thing to note is that in the reading I did when my R's SRS light was on (because I was stupid while changing out some panel bulbs and forgot to hook the bag up when I went to test the lights, doh!); is that when the fault is corrected the system will function but will not erase the light. Might want to check around and verify that for the P2 chassis. You would think that would make sense to do, but who knows now with all this inter-connection of systems. In any case, I didn't test it on my R :p, I just pulled the bulb since the dealer was so far out of reach.

Cheers,

Bill

JayPinNC

01-25-2010, 12:34 PM

I lucked out this week at the dealership. I just got my car (MY01), but the seller had to get a new door module installed (we split the cost). The car came with the SRS URGENT warning and I knew what it was and what it would be to fix it ($45 at my local dealer). But the dealership cleared it while they were re-programming the door module.

That phrase, "reprogramming the door" sounds so unnatural.

Of course, now that the electronics in the door work, the actual door opening mechanism doesn't work from the inside. My wife thought I was trying to get her fired up when she couldn't get out of the car this morning. :mad:

Art

01-25-2010, 12:45 PM

Of course, now that the electronics in the door work, the actual door opening mechanism doesn't work from the inside. My wife thought I was trying to get her fired up when she couldn't get out of the car this morning.

It almost sounds like the techs forgot to reattach the cable to the door opener when they replaced the module.

http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/door_panel_removal.pdf

JayPinNC

01-25-2010, 04:24 PM

Thanks Art!

Actually, the guy I bought the car from fessed up - he removed the door panel, took it to the dealer, then re-attached the door panel to save from having the dealer do it ($$$$). But yes, I'm thinking he missed that step. I was going to look for the directions to take the door apart.

Thanks for the help!

PS. A friend of mine lives just up the street from you...ok, the street is Highway 2 and she lives in Alberta, but on the map it looks like it's just up the street.

PSS. The license plate on my other car is EH-TO-ZED.

NJ03XC

01-25-2010, 08:10 PM

Wow - what a timely thread this is. I just had a USA Spec iPod adapter installed this past week and when I picked up the car I had a "SRS-Airbag, Service Urgent" warning on my dash. Can I assume that the shop that installed the kit made the same mistake and triggered this warning? If so I'll print this thread out and show it to them.

Chilled Man

01-25-2010, 08:15 PM

Ocean Racer

01-26-2010, 12:51 AM

yep from me too.
;)

NJ03XC

01-26-2010, 12:46 PM

OK. Thanks.
1 final newbie question if I may...
Assuming that the installer hooked everything back up correctly can I make any assumptions.... ok.. .bad choice of words.... can I surmise that the airbag is actually operational even though the warning lamp is triggered?

By the way - cannot believe I suffered so long with a cassette adapter for my iPod. The direct digital feed from the USA-Spec adapter is night and day in comparison. Anyone contemplating changing from a cassette feed or FM modulator to any of the direct feed adapters (IMIV, Neo, etc.) should proceed. Well worth it.

Ocean Racer

01-26-2010, 08:04 PM

Yes your airbags will still work. I doubt Volvo will make them inoperable after a simple CCM disconnection.
You can always crash the car to find out [thumbup] j/k

Ocean Racer

01-28-2010, 10:14 PM

Update:
I just went to my trusty Volvo mechanic and he fixed it in 20 seconds [thumbup]

Plug it in, look at the codes for entertainment value, clear the codes, unplug and drive away.

A drive-thru trip to McDonalds for lunch took longer

NJ03XC

02-01-2010, 02:00 PM

Same here. Stopped at my Indy garage this morning. He flashed the Airbag warning away in a second.
Alert - Thread hijack:
While there I had him read a Check Engine warning that popped up just a few days ago. He said it came up as "evaporative emissions pump check circuit"
and also told me that he had never seen an evap warning worded quite that way. I've yet to search the Forum DB and will do that tonight. Just thought I'd ask if this rings a bell for anyone?

NgunnawalJack

03-17-2010, 03:29 AM

billr99

03-17-2010, 05:24 AM

Thanks for the help. The SRS and engine check lights came on after an abortive attempt at installing driving lights. At my indy workshop to try and sort out. This thread help me feel a little easier that it wasn't going to be a huge (read $$$$) repair. Still waiting though.

BTW any ideas on where to get at the headlight (main beam) power cable to connect to the driving light switch so the driving lights are only operable when highbeam is selected?

If all you are looking for is a trigger wire for a relay for your driving lights, you can tap into the fuses in the under-hood fuse block. Those fuses only receive power when the high beam switch is set to on. I've had to tap there for the high beam indicator bulb now that my DIM will not reliably activate it so I know it works despite it being a "ghetto fix".

Cheers,

Bill

BigHole

03-17-2010, 05:53 AM

elorimer

03-17-2010, 09:50 AM

I had this SRS warning go on a week ago.

I took it to the dealer who quoted a minimum $115 for diagnostics and I had to leave the car. The code was 'low voltage' but the battery was fine and they cleared the code. Only charged me half of the quote.

Two days later I stopped for coffee, and when I turned the engine back on the warning came on again. Ugh.

This thread is helpful, though.

Ocean Racer

03-17-2010, 06:13 PM

Damn!
My Volvo mechanic cleared the error code for free and it only takes 15 seconds to do. I was standing next to him when he cleared it.

If it appears again, just disconnect the battery for 30 seconds. If it remains, go back to the dealer and ask for a re-clear.(for free) If there were something serious that needed attention, im sure your dealer would have mentioned it 2 days ago. [thumbup]

I had this SRS warning go on a week ago.

I took it to the dealer who quoted a minimum $115 for diagnostics and I had to leave the car. The code was 'low voltage' but the battery was fine and they cleared the code. Only charged me half of the quote.

Two days later I stopped for coffee, and when I turned the engine back on the warning came on again. Ugh.

This thread is helpful, though.

NgunnawalJack

03-18-2010, 11:10 PM

If all you are looking for is a trigger wire for a relay for your driving lights, you can tap into the fuses in the under-hood fuse block. Those fuses only receive power when the high beam switch is set to on. I've had to tap there for the high beam indicator bulb now that my DIM will not reliably activate it so I know it works despite it being a "ghetto fix".

Cheers,

Bill

Bill

Can you help with a pic? I'm a bit naive in this area

Thanks

Jack

billr99

03-19-2010, 05:48 AM

Bill

Can you help with a pic? I'm a bit naive in this area

Thanks

Jack

I'll try. I am going to assume that your mechanic is trying to setup your driving lights using a relay. Doing it this way will bypass any ugly Volvo software stuff with the relay pulling power for the lights directly from the battery Its also a good way to do any high-powered lights as it prevents arching across the contacts of the switch that turns them on. The general idea is described pretty well here (http://www.accessconnect.com/fog_driving_lights_wiring.htm). BTW, this is basically the way we rigged up our lights when I built my rally cars years ago. This setup was pretty reliable save for the fact that my old Datsun 510's electrical system was so under-powered even going lights this way could not save the 35amp alternator when you were trying to push over 600 watts worth of lights. In the case of your Volvo you should have no worries as the system has a reasonable level of power available and you are only running a couple of 55watt lamps (35watt HIDS would be even better if they suit the need), right?

Anyway, a relay needs a trigger wire to activate the relay so that it applies the power in from the battery to the circuit that you are setting up, the driving lights in this case. So what I am suggesting is that you go to the engine compartment fuse box. It is described here (http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/2002/2002_XC/02xc_08a.htm#pg112) on page 113. I would suggest that you reference your version of your owners manual as the ones in Oz may be a bit different. So for your trigger wire you pull that off of either fuse #20 or #21 described as "high beam, left" or "high beam, right". To make this connection easy, I used an "Add-a-Circuit" fuse (http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/FHM02FHA02.pdf) to one of the positions mentioned. Then simply run a lead from your "Add-a-Circuit" to the trigger terminal on your relay and you are good to go. Note that you could probably run a 10amp fuse in the "Add-a-Circuit" for your additional circuit's trigger as the relay will not pull that much power, however I would run a separate 15 or 20 amp amp fuse to the driving lights (as shown in the diagram) especially if you are going with 100watt bulbs.

Oh, one other thing. On all your additional wiring for this setup, make sure you solder and heat shrink all the connections. Use good quality spade and loop connectors as appropriate as well. Finally I would suggest running the wires in that corrugated plastic conduit. Makes for a neat job and it will prevent problems later related to any wiring chafing, etc.

Does this help at all?

Cheers,

Bill

NgunnawalJack

03-19-2010, 05:18 PM

I'll try. ...

Does this help at all?

Cheers,

Bill

Bill

Thanks

That was exactly what my son and I were trying to do - just like on my old Nissan 4x4. Couldn't find a pickup point for the trigger and all the places we tried caused the SRS and CEL lights - 47 error codes my indy mechanic found and charged me $211 to clear them. And now the Volvo dealer wants another $400+ for the OEM harness that connects to the CCM bus :mad:

Jack

billr99

03-19-2010, 07:19 PM

Bill

Thanks

That was exactly what my son and I were trying to do - just like on my old Nissan 4x4. Couldn't find a pickup point for the trigger and all the places we tried caused the SRS and CEL lights - 47 error codes my indy mechanic found and charged me $211 to clear them. And now the Volvo dealer wants another $400+ for the OEM harness that connects to the CCM bus :mad:

Jack
I wouldn't see you having any problems pulling the trigger as I have suggested. It far enough out in the circuit that it should not cause any codes. As I said it works for me to power an alternative high beam indicator so it should be fine for a relay.

Have fun,

Bill

kartinkent

03-19-2010, 09:24 PM

Hi guys

You could also "reset" your ecu by disconnecting the battery for 1hr. + and the reconnecting the battery, starting the car, letting it idle for 15 minutes (in this period, be sure to leave the car alone, as it is re-mapping the air/fuel/throttle maps), turn the car off, then back on, and you should be good to go....

NgunnawalJack

03-20-2010, 12:09 AM

Hey kartinkent

I found that on the forum after I'd left the car with my mechanic.:o

Next time I have a problem I'll look on the forum first:D

Jack

Ocean Racer

03-20-2010, 07:29 AM

btw,
The CEL generated by removing the CCM can ONLY be removed by the dealer or VIDA/VADIS OBD tool. [thumbup]

lexefx

04-08-2010, 10:29 AM

How about a SRS service light from unplugging the factory amp, or door switch? Dealer only??

jdp6000

04-25-2010, 01:42 PM

This warning came up on mine yesterday. We haven't done anything. So I don't know why. Any suggeestions?

Jim

squirrel_master

04-25-2010, 03:29 PM

How about a SRS service light from unplugging the factory amp, or door switch? Dealer only??

factory amp.--probably no srs light, i dont think the amp is part of the can loop. door swith, def no dtc's.

This warning came up on mine yesterday. We haven't done anything. So I don't know why. Any suggeestions?

Jim

need to read dtc's on this 1.

generally, srs dtcs WILL NOT reset without vida/aftrmkt scanner to clear the code(s). it is a safety issue and that is of the utmost importance. we did after all buy volvos! even a capacitive discharge will not clear srs dtcs.

lexefx

04-26-2010, 06:30 AM

factory amp.--probably no srs light, i dont think the amp is part of the can loop. door swith, def no dtc's.

It turned out to be the 3 locked in molex's under the front passenger seat. Dealer reset it and were happily light free!

Alex

jdp6000

04-27-2010, 06:01 PM

According to the dealer I need a new passenger seat airbag. $795 installed.

Jim

kamiar

04-27-2010, 06:30 PM

According to the dealer I need a new passenger seat airbag. $795 installed.

Jim

These come with 10 (or 8) years warranty, don't they?

Ocean Racer

04-27-2010, 06:51 PM

According to the dealer I need a new passenger seat airbag. $795 installed.

Jim

cough cough, why ?

Forkster

04-27-2010, 09:04 PM

No - Kamair is correct. It's law here in North America. Check your warranty manual Ocean Racer..

Ocean Racer

04-27-2010, 10:42 PM

No - Kamair is correct. It's law here in North America. Check your warranty manual Ocean Racer..
I just wanted to know why - because I thought you never needed to change them and how many times have we seen people being tricked into paying for expensive items by dodgy dealers.

Edit - In Australia it is recommended by Volvo but not mandatory. There have also been no cases where an airbag has failed [thumbup]

jdp6000

04-28-2010, 04:48 AM

cough cough, why ?

No idea. All they said was they go from time to time. I have never had it happen on any other car I own. I will pick one up at the scrap yard and swap it. I would have thought it was a connection issue but I can't see anything wrong under there.

Jim

jdp6000

04-28-2010, 04:51 AM

These come with 10 (or 8) years warranty, don't they?

According to my booklet they come with a 5 year warranty. There is a sticker on the passenger side rear door pillar that says they all need service in 2013.

Maybe there is a hidden warranty, I will surf around and see what I find.

Jim

kamiar

04-28-2010, 07:25 AM

Yes it is 5 years it seems http://www.volvocanada.com/Owners/WarrantySearch.aspx?lng=2&modelyear=2004

jdp6000

04-28-2010, 03:05 PM

Yes it is 5 years it seems http://www.volvocanada.com/Owners/WarrantySearch.aspx?lng=2&modelyear=2004

Thats okay I went by my friends yard and picked up a few. Now to figure out how the seat comes apart.