Hard acceleration shudder

[pjg01930]

About a week or so ago my 2000 XC (127K) has developed a shudder when accelerating hard, i.e. on-ramps, or just when really pushing it down from 60-70mph. It is ok under mild to moderate acceleration, but when really pressed there is a hard shudder, almost a kick, that is loud and does NOT feel good. Plugs and coils seem to be good, front axles were checked and are ok. Prop shaft vibe for a while, getting new one put in next week. Thoughts?

[redoak]

Does this occur during down shift? It may rough torque converter lock-up/disengagement. There is a TSB from Volvo regarding changing the ATF to cure the problem.

[JRL]

Thoughts?

Propshaft (drivshaft)
Transmission

[pjg01930]

UPDATE: Had 2 drain and fills of transmission fluid (replaced 8L) and got new propshaft installed (reman'd unit from Colorado driveshaft). Car running much smoother but still was able to reproduce that shudder under hard accel on highway. NOT sure mechanic actually tested ignition coils, I had asked, but not sure they did. So I guess don't rule those out. Plugs have 20K on them of alot of extreme highway/stop-and-go combo commuting in 9 month span. Planning 1500 mile road trip to Florida next week. For now I think just avoid hard accel and thus enjoy the benefits of improved MPG...

[pjg01930]

UPDATE UPDATE: Check engine light came on this morning. Got codes P1113 and P0422. Air mass meter (MAF)? Has anyone had this problem?

[morregerbert]

0422 sounds like a bad cat
1113 Ambient Air Temp sensor
your shudder could be just a misfire, which not being detect by ECM, and as a result you get a bad cat.

[kirbike]

I had the same problem, and changed the ATF and drove it home. About 6 hrs later I was driving and the engine light came on and was misfiring. There was also a bad rich burning smell. It turned out to be a bad coil. I not sure if it was the fluid change or the coil, but the shudder has lessened quite a bit....it's still there but not nearly as bad as before.

[pjg01930]

Thanks all for the input. Had codes cleared and two days later CEL on again, this time for P0234, turbo overboost. Soooo, the XC is sitting in a cold snowy drive way for a few weeks as I made a road trip to Florida...was able to borrow an 05 Mercury Montego (kinda like an S80!) for the trip...BOO!

[pjg01930]

Well, after a month of sitting, got the XC back in action...still had major shudder when trying to accelrate hard. But CEL did not come back on the week and half I drove it before I
Replaced these items:
Boost control valve - $59 fcpgroton Genuine Volvo
MAP sensor - $89 fcpgroton Genuine Volvo
Intake Air temp sensor (one located right next to MAP) - $33 - volvo dealer

Took the car out for a test drive and accelerated hard from 60-85. There was significant sticking but the RPM's kept going (and fighting through it or so it seemed) and got up in the 4000+ range. Before, the RPM's were having trouble getting past 2700, on highway or local...RPM's would drop down when they hit 2700-2800 and slowly start climbing again. And when accelerating hard it would really kick and shudder. So I was pleased the hard shudder was gone, but still very concerned about the sticking...
Didn't drive it the next day, but took it out again the last couple of days and the sticking and shuddering is gone. Running much better, no hesitation or sticking on acceleration. Turbo kicking in nicely and no fear of stepping on the gas. Revs up properly when accelerating no problem.

[DieselDug]

My wife and I recently experienced the same thing on the way through the mountains in Virginia...we live in the DC area where it's pretty flat and didn't experience the issue until some sustained hill driving a few weeks ago.

I should note as well that at one point I got the car to throw the same catalytic converter-related issue that you did. I cleared the code and neither my wife or I have seen it since.

For me it sounded/felt like a bad passenger side CV joint. The shaking/shuddering definitely felt like it was coming from the front right side of the car. We did take it easy on the car, though, and managed to make it back home. At the time I noticed that the top motor mount was loose and happened to replace it with a spare I had sitting at home from my last parts order. She also took it to a shop for a diagnosis (prior to the engine mount replacement) and they wanted to replace the inner tie rod ends and the driver's side axle...I said "no" because that really didn't feel like the cause of the shuddering problem I felt.

She hasn't felt the issue since that one day (and since the mount replacement), though the car is definitely making more of a running noise than it used to (when it was newer). It typically starts making a faint "guzzling" noise when you shift from neutral to drive. I was thinking this might be because of the renewed mount, which obviously connects the engine (and its vibration) to the car in one more point than before.

What was your rationale for replacing the sensors and such? Because of the CEL codes you saw? Just wondering if I should go the same route.

Thanks,
- Doug

[pjg01930]

DieselDug,
My shudder was really pronounced on hard accel when hitting the 2500-2800 rpm range, really a quick and sudden bang. And on lighter accel there seemed to be a sticking and releasing feeling too. Reading some of these forums sounded like it could be boost control valve sticking, which I think was the problem, because the turbo is strong now and I can floor it and it zooms up to 5000rpm+ if I want to go there. The IAT sensor I did because it was cheap and P1113 is for that I believe, and I read the map sensor had smoothed out engine for some, I didn't notice any benefit in that area, as you said about yours mine has some running noise that is still there after all this stuff. I am still getting a rumble/vibe whenever on the gas, esp. uphill.