Brakes sticking while parked

[Jules]

Recently I've noticed the occasional 'clunk' coming from the rear of the vehicle when first reversing out of the driveway. It sounded like the park brake was stuck and finally releasing. No big deal, right? However, last week while in the big city, it was scary-bad.

After the 4 hour drive to Victoria, the car was dirty from road salt. I went through a 'Touchless car wash' proceeding slowly past the wheel washer jets. The wash cycle was as per normal, then immediately to the hotel, about a 5 minute drive. The car was parked in the heated underground parkade for the next two days without being moved.

When I went to retrieve the vehicle, the brakes were locked on solid. I tried giving more accelorator, first forward, then reverse, forward, reverse. It was like trying to drive with the brakes full on. With each forward - reverse cycle there was an audible clunk like I had just hit something. After a few cycles, the brakes seemed to release, because the movement became normal, without resistance. I first though that water may have gotten into the brakes and somehow caused them to temporarily seize.

Is there an issue with these vehicle and the brakes as I've noted above? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Cheers
Jules

[duncan]

I had it happen to me once after regular maintenance. I took the car to my mechanic and had them re-lube the brakes - everything was fine after.

But literally it was the same problem - the brakes would "pop" off after being parked, or even letting off the brakes when driving.

Last thing I wanted was a brake sticking and burning out, so I got it fixed right away. Suggest you do the same.

[billr99]

Your e-brake shoes are starting to come off the backing plates. Best to replace them straight away with something that is not Volvo-labeled. Not sure what has changed over the years, but this problem is fairly well documented here and those with the best subsequent luck after replacement have used aftermarket shoes.

I got mine at a local parts place so I'm not sure were they got them from but they were fairly non-descript aftermarket bits. But I have had no problems with them binding to the shoes or anything. Also when replaced, make sure all the contact and pivot points are lubed with a silicone brake grease. That helps keep everything moving in high corrosion environments like what I live in.

Cheers,

Bill

[BillAileo]

Jules,

If I power wash my car's wheels and immediately park it for an extended period I get something close to what you described. I've concluded it is rust on the rotors bonding the pads to the rotors. Now I always try to drive the car for a short distance after anytime I wash the wheels.

[Jules]

Your e-brake shoes are starting to come off the backing plates.

This makes a lot of sense now. I have noticed the parking brake requires a lot more upward travel to lock the brake on. Thanks Bill.


Jules

[billr99]

This makes a lot of sense now. I have noticed the parking brake requires a lot more upward travel to lock the brake on. Thanks Bill.


Jules

Jules, yep your loosing your e-brake shoes. What you describe is exactly what happened to mine. What you will find now when you pull the rotors is that what is left of the shoes comes out in pieces and, if like mine, you will have no shoe material actually on the backing plates. In other words, your e-brake was operating on a metal-to-metal basis with the drum.

I'm still amazed at this. I wish I had some old shoes around from the older models as I would like to see if they are the same dimensionally. As I have now said many times, I've never had this issue on any of my other Volvos with the shoes lasting the whole trip (specifically, over 200K miles on a 744T) on all but this one. Strikes me as an accountant's idea.

Cheers,

Bill

[Jules]

Jules, yep your loosing your e-brake shoes.

When you think about it, this is rediculous. What kind of wear-and-tear is there on a parking brake? Vertually none. A little wear on the cable and pivot points, perhaps. But to have the shoes delaminate after only 4 years and 65k Kms... sounds line poor quality material and even worse design.


This would also explain my recent increase in fuel mileage. If the brake shoes are dragging it would create more resistance and increase fuel consumption.

Jules

[BillAileo]

FWIW: Sometimes damage to e-brake shoes can be caused by forceful removal of a rotor while the e-brake shoes are in contact with the drum built into the rotor....

[Jules]

OK, so I picked up a new set a brake shoes yesterday from NAPA. They had to do some searching to find aftermarket shoes. The product comes from TRUSTING S.a.P in Italy, but manufactures in Tiawan (go figure.) I'd never heard of them before, but after a little hunting and pecking, I found their website http://www.trustingparts.com/brake/index-en.html They seem to be a decent enough company. Shoes were $98 CDN ($122 with tax & shipping.)

Seems to me I'm spending a lot of hard earned cash just to keep this car in good working order.

Cheers
Jules

[Aviator]

That's damn expensive!! Hope they came with new hold down springs, and a lifetime guarantee.

Dave.

[billr99]

That's damn expensive!! Hope they came with new hold down springs, and a lifetime guarantee.

Dave.
Jeez, that is. I think I paid about $45 CDN for the parts here.

Cheers,

Bill

[Jules]

That's damn expensive!! Hope they came with new hold down springs, and a lifetime guarantee.

Dave.

Nope. Four shoes and a piece of paper. They better last longer than the OEM.

Jules

[Jules]

So I'm gearing up to replace the delaminated brake shoes. I have found, read and understand the instructions (military speak for I haven't got a clue what it really means) in the resources section. Just a few concerns:

Check the parking brake expander for damage. Lubricate if necessary.
Lubricate the contact surfaces on the brake shield. Use heat resistant grease.

Can someone direct me to where I should be looking to lubricate if necessary? (See attached)

Thanks

Jules

[seanm]

I need help!
I am out of town on vacation and parked my 05 xc for 2 weeks outside (while on a Grand Canyon river trip) Lots of rain fell in Flagstaff over the 2 weeks - got back to my car and released the parking brake handle - but the e-brake remains engaged. Now the handle is loose with no clicks - until it gets about 75% - then the clicks start. But the e-brake will not release. Rocked it a little in Drive and Reverse - but did not kick loose. Did not want to rock more in case it would cause other damage.

I am at a hotel - so limited tools at hand - any fixes without going to a garage? I could tow to a local mechanic if no quick fix -I am parked front-in. Leaving early tomorrow morning back home to Salt Lake -- Did a quick search - but could not find a solution. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

[seanm]

Just read a little more -- should I just keep rocking until they pop free? Then not use the p-brake until I get them lubed up?
(I have newer Akebono rotors and ceramic pads - if it makes any difference)

[JRL]

It doesn't
The PARKING brakes are rusted, sticking and probably need replacement

[seanm]

I know it is the parking brake. Are the e-brakes on both sides? After pushing it back and forth and rocking it in neutral - there was a pop it seemed like it released one side. But it seems it is still sticking on the passenger other side . Found a local mechanic who can check it out in the morning. After he frees up the e-brake, can I safely assume I can drive it home without replacing them first?

[coflynn]

Hello,

I recently had this same issue... and assumed my pads were de-laminated. After getting new pads & taking apart the rear, I realized the pads were fine. I still replaced them since they were 11 years old, but that wasn't causing the sticking rear.

The pad expander was seized. It was insufficient to just lube it and try working that in without removing it - I tried pretty hard w/o success. The part looks like this: http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-parking-brake-shoe-adjuster-31257570 . You can see it installed as #12 on the following: http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=1123018&ukey_assembly=240864&ukey_make=865&ukey_model=12012&ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=0

You've got to remove it, which took some finagling. Spin the hub around to get best clearance etc. Once it was off I had to work it back and forth many many many times while packing with grease, until it was finally "more free". Now my parking brakes didn't stick. If I had known this was the problem I would just have bought a new one sure, but it was 10:30pm at night by then after my quick project was dragging on, and I needed to get this done!

Take a photo of it on so you know how to get it back properly as well. Or at minimum leave one side intact...

Regards,

-Colin