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View Full Version : Timing belt kit, labor?



babalu87
12-05-2009, 09:31 AM
Got the kit from FCP Groton
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/32690/nm/Volvo_V70_Timing_Belt_Kit_1999_2007_/category_id/201

Water pump, seals etc.
Car needs the camshaft seals, has an oil leak.

Wondering about the labor and how many hours it is.

Aviator
12-05-2009, 12:40 PM
If you're doing it yourself plan for the day. If done at dealer with the right installation tools, hoist, etc., probably about 4 hours.

Dave.

babalu87
12-08-2009, 12:28 PM
Going on 5 hours!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I dont think they went about it correctly.......................talking about lining up the timing again?
How the hell did it get out of alignment!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

howardc64
12-08-2009, 10:18 PM
When I put the new belt on both of my P2s, the new belt didn't slide right between the intake and exhaust cam. One of the cams had to move ever so slightly to get a fit. I don't know why but perhaps the old belt gets a little stretched?

Anyway, one tooth off is pretty obvious if you know what you are doing. I line up the crank timing marks and then connect the cams... keeping the intake side tight against pulley and crank. Then I rotate back and forth a little bit and line up the crank again. Then I visualize what happens if I was 1 tooth off either way on both cams. Visualize how far the cam timing marks would be off and select the "least off" tooth. There is no "dead on marking" for timing. The gap between the plastic cover marks and cam gear markers are big and offsets differently just based on the angle you look. Anyway, find the "least off" tooth is what I do.

Jorge-789995
12-17-2009, 09:53 AM
timely topic for me.

2002 with 105k on it it. It's time for a timing belt. The kit mentioned below comes with all the cam and crank seals.

Continental OEM Timing Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner 30638277 (mechanical)
Timing Belt Idler Pulley 9146376
German Hepu Water Pump 272476
Front Crank Seal
Front Left Cam Seal
Front Right Cam Seal
Rear Cam Seal Left and Right (Contains both rear cam seals)

My seals are dry, so they may not need to be replaced right away. My question for you all is whether you'd replace ALL the seals front AND back while doing the timing belt? or since they are dry and not leaking oil, would you leave all the original seals in place. Opinions please.

thanks for the replys.

Keith

jmoser
12-17-2009, 10:23 AM
I just laid a steel ruler across the cam gears and used a sharpie pen to mark the 'top' 12 O'Clock. teeth. Then measure the distance between those teeth and keep as a reference for reinstallation alignment.

Using the flimsy plastic cover for alignment marks is a F-ing joke on Volvo's part.

JRL
12-17-2009, 01:39 PM
Hmm boy!
Hour and a half here
(after doing a few)

howardc64
12-17-2009, 03:56 PM
timely topic for me.

2002 with 105k on it it. It's time for a timing belt. The kit mentioned below comes with all the cam and crank seals.

Continental OEM Timing Belt
Timing Belt Tensioner 30638277 (mechanical)
Timing Belt Idler Pulley 9146376
German Hepu Water Pump 272476
Front Crank Seal
Front Left Cam Seal
Front Right Cam Seal
Rear Cam Seal Left and Right (Contains both rear cam seals)

My seals are dry, so they may not need to be replaced right away. My question for you all is whether you'd replace ALL the seals front AND back while doing the timing belt? or since they are dry and not leaking oil, would you leave all the original seals in place. Opinions please.

thanks for the replys.

Keith

I think most of the indys don't touch the seals in your list unless leaking. And I haven't heard of any common failures on these after the 105k mi belt+roller changes. If DYI+first time on this car, you always take the chance of actually causing more harm from inexperience.

These seals are also not hard to get to if they fail unlike the rear main seals.

One note on keeping your seals dry is to check the PCV system for clogs and therefore put pressure on the seals. Here is a link on that

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=117607

duettitude
12-18-2009, 08:28 AM
My seals are dry, so they may not need to be replaced right away. My question for you all is whether you'd replace ALL the seals front AND back while doing the timing belt? or since they are dry and not leaking oil, would you leave all the original seals in place. Opinions please.

Oil seals are the paradigm for IIABDFI (if it ain't broke don't fix it). I wouldn't disturb a trouble-free water pump either. How old is your accessory (serpentine) belt?