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View Full Version : 2001 XC Water Pump? Help.



pgabob
06-10-2009, 09:52 PM
Just bought my first XC (second Volvo)...the car is a 2001 with 82000 miles...sat a while before I purchased.

Well 4 days and 150 miles later...cruising the Haight District of SF, and wham...coolant dripping like crazy. No overheat indication or warning light...lucky to have someone post a note on my windshield while parked.

Where do I get a solid manual for this thing? Seems the water is coming from the Plastic front cover...hopefully this is where the water pump is...

Love the car and the way it drives...but as a mechanic who does not want want to spend all weekend wrenching, and going broke, would love to find out if this is usual for a car that sat around for a while.

BTW...did a full fluid check and top off before driving out of the driveway of the seller.

Any help would be great.

Thanks.

Chilled Man
06-10-2009, 09:59 PM
never actually seen a water pump leak from the gasket unless its been over heated.

would bet it something else like the rubber coolant lines going near the cover and spraying onto it .

but ....

linky :D buy this and be happy
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo-VADIS-Parts-Workshop-Service-Wiring-Manuals-2-DVD_W0QQitemZ130306725559QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors _Manuals_Literature?hash=item1e56e2d6b7&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A1%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1205%7C 240%3A1318

pgabob
06-10-2009, 10:03 PM
No spray...just coolant leaking out of the lower part of the plastic front cover.

Chilled Man
06-11-2009, 06:25 AM
it could be a pin hole on a hose spraying onto the cover you cant see.

again would be very suprised for it to be a WP leak

mbsl98
06-11-2009, 07:20 AM
I did have one instance of a coolant leak from the water pump, running down under the black timing belt cover. It was on a '98XC, but same set-up still in use. The issue with mine was that the pump bearings failed, not the seal or gasket. This was a recently replaced pump, with about 20k on it at the time, and was a unique failure in my mechanic's experience - clearly a manufacturing defect as opposed to wear. Generally these pumps are viewed as very long lasting, with lots of discussions about swapping on second T-belt change just because they may not last until the third.

I had a leask that looked very similar, coolant running out that appeared to be coming from under the black cover - turned out to be a very hard to see leak from the small rubber line that runs from top of thermostat housing back to overflow tank, which just needed to be tightened at the housing end. Leak was just about impossible to see from any direction, and ran down crevices behind big bracket that holds PS pu8mp, etc. to exit just where the pump leak would show. Pulling the T-belt cover (the black plastic) is very easy, and will allow you to clearly identify if the leak is the pump or something simple.

One thought is that you are about in need of replacing your timing belt in any event, and adding a new pump along with that job is no big deal, or adding a belt if you already need a pump. I know you are low on miles, but your XC is about 9 years old and Volvo recommends T-belt replacements on either time or mileage, with the time limit being something like 7 years AFAIK.

Jsandek
06-11-2009, 09:47 AM
Not sure what you mean by "plastic cover". I have 04 that provided "danger do not drive low coolant message" last November (~48,000 miles). I topped up the fluid and have noticed the level in the overflow tank slowly going down but not dramatically since then. Recent visit to dealer (55K miles) they reported "leak at radiator" Others on this board have reported similar experience. You probably need a new radiator (it's partly made of plastic like all modern radiators) or a new hose.

I'd be interested in the experience of others (obviously) who had a slow leak like I'm experiencing but which eventually had an abrubt failure.

Thanks

pgabob
06-11-2009, 04:50 PM
Here is the latest...

Inspected the car after it sat overnight, the radiator overflow chamber still at over half of capacity...no sign of liquid beneath or under front cover. Moved car to garage and quickly noticed moisture under front cover and none near hoses etc...
Removed front cover, and started...1 minute later...bright green radiator fluid eventually trickled down beneath the engine along the inside of the inner front cover (still on the vehicle) and the garage floor. At first it was just a drop or tow, but with the engine running within minutes, I noticed fluid fling-ing off the water pump pulley/gear. I noticed it was also puddling around the seal of the freeze plug behind the water pump pulley/gear. Possible source?
Question:
Water pump seal, bearing failure, or freeze plug issue...there is no other source of of liquid anywhere. Again any help would be great.

Thanks...I have owned the thing for only four days, but I am far from giving up on it!

billr99
06-12-2009, 04:44 AM
Since you say the car sat for awhile, I would be inclined to suggest the pump shaft seal. I've had that happen a couple of times on cars that I purchased with similar histories. In any case, its not a hard deal to change out the pump if you have considered replacing the cam belt. You are closer than not to when the belt should be changed anyway. Once you get in there, then you can see if its a freeze plug, but I'm willing to bet that once the pump is replaced you'll be good to go.

Good luck,

Bill

Chilled Man
06-12-2009, 05:58 AM
return it ?

pgabob
06-16-2009, 11:57 AM
You were right...pump shaft seal. Did what you and others suggested -- replaced timing belt and pulleys while out...under $300. Was given a quote of about 950 from a shop, but the job is really easy...I didnt even have to take off the crank pulley.

Thanks
\

Since you say the car sat for awhile, I would be inclined to suggest the pump shaft seal. I've had that happen a couple of times on cars that I purchased with similar histories. In any case, its not a hard deal to change out the pump if you have considered replacing the cam belt. You are closer than not to when the belt should be changed anyway. Once you get in there, then you can see if its a freeze plug, but I'm willing to bet that once the pump is replaced you'll be good to go.

Good luck,

Bill

billr99
06-16-2009, 12:34 PM
under $300. Was given a quote of about 950 from a shop, but the job is really easy...I didnt even have to take off the crank pulley.
Yet another victory for the DIY mechanic!! [thumbup]

Now its Miller Time!

Cheers,

Bill