rear stabilizer link

[Sasquatch]

The stealership said I needed new stabilizer links in the rear. Only one is going, but he said they replace them in pairs. They wanted $215 to do it. I am thinking the parts can't cost more than $25-30 each and it looks like two bolts to do the job.

Has anyone else done this? Is there an online source of parts to do this sort of thing, or am I stuck with the stealership or junkyard?

Thanks.

[BillAileo]

Of course you're not stuck with the dealer or junk yard. FCP, IPD and probably others sell them FCP's aftermarket version is about $18.00 each. See http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/7699/nm/Volvo_V70_Sway_Bar_Link_Rear_2001_2007_/category_id/181

[Sasquatch]

Thanks. I forgot about them. I think I bought something from them once in the past.

Is this link from them as good in quality as the one from Volvo? I can do two myself for less than what the dealer charges for one! I am thinking it will be as easy as turning 2 bolts for each link, correct? Will I need a wheel alignment after (doubt it)?

Has anyone else done this? Is it as easy as it looks? Of course, an 8 year old car in New England, bolts often don't come off easily, but these may already be replacements. Do Volvos go through these a lot?

Thanks again!

[Forkster]

IPD sells heavy-duty links (http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPageHistory=category&numSearchStartRecord=0&strParents=127,388&P_ID=864&CAT_ID=388&V_ID=2282) - which means they'll probably last the life of the car, instead of the every 4-5 years for the current under-engineered OEM's. They're around $50 each but will last the life of the car, and then some. Technically, it's considered an upgrade from the originals. :)

[skibo]

I did the fronts last weekend with aftermarket parts from FCP-Groton ($14 vs. $63 each at the dealer). So, $63+63+1/2 hour labor+ tax and supplies sounds like a $200 bill at the dealer.

Job would have been easy enough, but 1 of the 4 nuts on the old ones was frozen, and I had to drill it off - ugly.

Aftermarket part was similar to OEM, but the rubber boots were less elaborate, and it used standard nuts vs. the special nuts on the original. I used 3 of the 4 original nuts (I destroyed the last one). Also, the OEM part used a Torx inset to hold the stud, and the aftermarket used hex, but the hex was adequate.

I think the Vadis instructions for this is posted in the 'resource' section - I know the front link replacement was in there.

[Jorge-789995]

I vote for the IPD links. I have them on mine.

While you are at it, you might as well put on an IPD sway-bar as well.[sly] I like the way mine drives with them.

[Aviator]

When removing these links you don't need to use a Torx bit.....you can get vise grips in between the sway bar and the ball side of the link and then just use a ratchet and socket to undo the nuts. You may need to heat the nuts (propane torch works just fine and thread are coarse thread anyway) for a few minutes, and they break loose with hardly any effort at all. When installing the new ones, yes, do it by the book correctly and use Torx or hex (depending on where you get the links). It's quite easy to do, but remember if you're doing one side at a time and have one wheel off, there will be pressure on the sway bar because of one side being loaded. A crowbar makes a good pry tool to get the bar up so you can get both link studs fitted.

Dave.