What is this leak on the driver side foot well?

[bjcockrell]

I noticed a wet area on the driver side foot well during a recent cleaning. Upon closer inspection it looks like there is some kind of fluid coming from between the foot wells. See attached picture. Any ideas on what it could be? It doesn't feel/smell like water.

[JRL]

High miles?
Possible bad heater core

[bjcockrell]

MY 2002 with 75,000 miles. Anything I should check to determine that it's a heater core? Loss of coolant maybe.
And what does a heater core cost if I am looking at replacing a heater core?

[JRL]

Couple of hours labor, not sure of the cost of the core itself, not too much.

Unless it IS water, then you may have a sunroof drain clogged.
I would have that checked first.
It could be so full of dirty crud that it looks and smells differently.

[Lincoln]

Coolant has a pretty distinctively sweet smell. Give it the ol' sniffer test...

[pdk]

isn't the heater core on the passenger side? Usually nothing above on driver side except for brake booster, but that seemed to far back for that.

[JRL]

Yes but it can and will show up on the driver's side floor

[Aviator]

That's the side that the coolant pipes connect to the core on. It could just be a case of leaking O rings. Usually, if the core is gone, your windscreen will keep fogging up no matter how hard you try to stop it. Are you getting a rubbery sweet smell in the cabin?

Dave.

[Jeremy]

isn't the heater core on the passenger side? Usually nothing above on driver side except for brake booster, but that seemed to far back for that.


Yes but it can and will show up on the driver's side floor

100% wrong:eek: heater core is located in the center of the car not the passenger side.

It's pretty easy to remove. Just take off the panel under the steering wheel and the left side panel (has vent in it). use garbage bag to catch any excess coolant that didn't drain out. Core is held in with a couple of screws and slides out.

Here is the text from VADIS (couldn't copy the pics):
Heat exchanger – left-hand drive
Remove:
-the heater hoses in the engine compartment. Use special pliers 1158957
-the seal and the plate.
Remove:
-the soundproofing panel. See Soundproofing panel, replacing
-the brake lamp switch. See Stop lamp switch, replacing
Remove:
-the tie strap for the pipes
-the screws for the heat exchanger
-the mounting brackets for the pipes.
-Position plenty of paper under the heat exchanger and around the pipes
Drain the coolant into a suitable container.
-detach the pipes and position them out of the way
-pull out the heat exchanger.

Jeremy

[JRL]

Heater core on a GEN 1 is on the right, on a P2 I haven't a clue, none have ever failed for me.
The bottom line is that on either car they can leak on BOTH floors

[pdk]

ok, I didn't know about these cars. I've replaced a few in the jeeps and gm cars I've owned over the years and they were all on the passenger side. and none leaked on the driver side..heck the one firebird I had ended up with about a gallon on the passenger side, smell never did totally go away.

[bjcockrell]

The fluid is kind of sticky and definitely smells like coolant. I am stopping by IPD today to pick up some heater core O-rings (hoping it's just the o-rings) and attempting the repair this weekend. If anyone has tips, pictures, advice, etc on this repair I certainly could use it.
I found this link http://www.volvospeed.com/vs_forum/lofiversion/index.php/t9717.html but it is for an S70.

[Jeremy]

The fluid is kind of sticky and definitely smells like coolant. I am stopping by IPD today to pick up some heater core O-rings (hoping it's just the o-rings) and attempting the repair this weekend. If anyone has tips, pictures, advice, etc on this repair I certainly could use it.
I found this link http://www.volvospeed.com/vs_forum/lofiversion/index.php/t9717.html but it is for an S70.

Yeah that is for a 2000 and prior but newer should be similar. If your going to spend the time putting in new o rings you may as well replace the core too. If hasn't gone yet, it will soon, and why tear it apart twice? The old pay now or pay later either way you end up paying!

Jeremy

[bjcockrell]

Do I need to drain the entire coolant system or just the heater core? Hopefully the heater core only. I've got the parts and am going to attempt it this weekend.

[Aviator]

http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/heat_exchanger_removing.pdf

This should help.

Dave.

[PierreC]

http://www.volvoxc.com/resources/how-to/pdf/heat_exchanger_removing.pdf

This should help.

Dave.

For the record, I have just removed the heater core from my 850 and it is totally different from this ...

[Aviator]

For the record, I have just removed the heater core from my 850 and it is totally different from this ...

That's because it's an 850. The instructions are for 2001 and up XC.:)

Dave.

[JayPinNC]

That's because it's an 850. The instructions are for 2001 and up XC.:)

Dave.

Ok, I've followed these instructions and I'm having issues (I have a MY01 XC) - the heater core slides out...I've removed the stop lamp switch so I can get the core past that...but WHAM....the core hits the steering wheel linkage before I can get the core out.

Anybody have any insight?

[JayPinNC]

Ok, I finished installing my heater core. And apparently it works...I road tested it and no leaks.

For all those who attempt to do this, let me translate VADIS into English:

Remove:
-the heater hoses in the engine compartment. Use special pliers 1158957
(Easy enough. That's how I did it. Minus the fancy pliers...I used a pair of vice grips with the teeth wrapped in electrical tape and some needle nose pliers covered with tubing)
-the seal and the plate.
Remove:
-the soundproofing panel. See Soundproofing panel, replacing
(Do the piece above your feet first and also take off the one that sits next to the seat. In that order. Reverse order when you re-install)
-the brake lamp switch. See Stop lamp switch, replacing
(It comes out easily...getting it back in took some mental work. When you go to put it back in, pull the white 'sleeve' that covers the plunger all the way out to let the tabs travel as they slip back into the metal square/housing)
Remove:
-the tie strap for the pipes
(Assuming you have one...and can actually get up there with anything to cut)
-the screws for the heat exchanger
(Easy. I only had one)
-the mounting brackets for the pipes.
(Oh yeah, this was hard. One had been put in from the wrong direction and neither wanted to come out. I took a small hacksaw and cut slits on the tube housings near the brackets to get the brackets out.)
-Position plenty of paper under the heat exchanger and around the pipes
Drain the coolant into a suitable container.
(Use a garbage bag and old towels. Tuck the bag over and behind the carpet under the core. Place towels on bag.)
-detach the pipes and position them out of the way
(Suuuuuureeeeee. Get a piece of old 14-gauge wire to tie them to something or they'll just slip back to where they were meant to go.)
-pull out the heat exchanger.
(Suuuuuuuure....and say W.T.F. when it slips out and hits the steering linkage before you can get it out. HINT: Before you start pulling it out, turn your key to pos II, turn the heat up to max and turn your fan on...if you don't the core gets slightly caught on the small arms that control the heat flow. Make sure the arm is out of the way before you start pulling on the core. As for the steering linkage getting in the way you have to finesse the core downward on an angle and out toward the seat at the same time.)

As for getting the new core back in, the fins are factory bent to slide back in...make sure you put the foam tape on similar to how it is on the old core. You'll hear fins bending...don't let it get to you, only a few are bending. And as for getting those #$@*ing clips back on to hold the pipes in the core...lube the o-ring, put it on the pipe and PUUUUUUUUSH it into the core. Eventually (After an hour) mine decided to seat. Push them in with a screwdriver. Getting the metal clips/brackets back in was fairly easy.

[Chilled Man]

Heater Core
Leaks on driver side
Just like the 850s and 70 series
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii298/R410a/01xc/xcpixss016.jpg

[JayPinNC]

Nice pic. That bottom retaining pic is backward just like mine. Or, at least, it runs contrary to the installation instructions that I found on the site (which I was reading upside down under my dashboard in 34F weather, so if I'm wrong, just tell me). I tried to pull mine out and it hit that plastic tower for that torx screw. I ended up chipping the plastic away off the core to get the pin out and put the new on in correctly.

[volvo4fun]

Nice pic. That bottom retaining pic is backward just like mine. Or, at least, it runs contrary to the installation instructions that I found on the site (which I was reading upside down under my dashboard in 34F weather, so if I'm wrong, just tell me). I tried to pull mine out and it hit that plastic tower for that torx screw. I ended up chipping the plastic away off the core to get the pin out and put the new on in correctly.

Cutting the plastic off is not necessary. Slide the heater core out slight and then the clip will come out. It might bend a little bit but it is soft metal so it is easy to straighten out.

[JayPinNC]

Cutting the plastic off is not necessary. Slide the heater core out slight and then the clip will come out. It might bend a little bit but it is soft metal so it is easy to straighten out.

Tried it. Hacksaw was the last resort. Putting the clips back in was slightly easier.

[bob]

Gen 1 is in the center too. The evaporator is on the right side

[stevepaa]

just did this, what a pain. my clips were in backwards also, so I used sidecutters to snip the plastic away.

putting that tie wrap back in is a real pain.

thanks for the tip on moving that lever arm:)[thumbup]

[JayPinNC]

Glad to hear it worked out for you. It's a pain, but you only have to do it once ... maybe twice? I don't know.

[stevepaa]

my 2001 looks just like yours[happy]

[dtlayman]

We found out our heater core has been leaking when I got in the car Saturday morning. Took it to the shop. What a mess.

Anyway, shop initially quoted several hundred dollars for heater core part and approximately 6 hours of labor. I checked on FCP Groton and found a heater core for $95 + shipping.

I really don't have time to do this myself right now. How long should it take to replace for experienced Volvo mechanic?

Thanks!

[JayPinNC]

I'm no expert, but six hours seems awfully long for that. Do they think they need to take the dashboard off? Make sure you ask what's involved. My first time took a long time, but in hindsight, I (like to) think I could do it in less than 6 hours.

And 'several hundred dollars' would make me run the other way. Shop around. Or consider making the time to DIY.

[dtlayman]

Shop says I just need o rings. I noticed earlier reply recommended replacing heater core at the same time you replace o rings.

When I mentioned this to the shop and told them about the heater core I found on fcp groton they said they were not comfotable with this aftermarket heater core. They said it was too cheap? fcp groton does sell a Nissens unit too that is more expensive.

Advice?

link to the aftermarket heater core -
http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/91518/nm/Volvo_V70_Heater_Core_2001_2007_Aftermarket_/category_id/81

[JayPinNC]

Yes, replace the $200 part while you're in there replacing two, $2 o-rings.

Sorry, it just sounded funny.

I got the Nissens one. But I rationalized the price against the money saved doing it myself. All of FCP Groton's cores come with a lifetime warranty.

Could you get by with just doing the rings? Maybe. Maybe your core will leak three weeks from now, too. Maybe you don't have the cash flow for a the more expensive one. I've tried to get the best that I can afford at any given time to keep the car in operation.

[skibo]

JayPinNC - I don't know if your're still active on this forum, but I just used your instructions to replace my heater core - thanks for the tips - very helpful.

I think the only things I'd add for future readers is:
- The stop-light switch has 2 tapered pads - one at the top and one at the bottom - you can press a piece with 3 parallel ridges to release them. It is made so that it can only be re-assembled one way, so there's no need to mark the top and bottom.
- The tie-wrap holding the 2 pipes to their white plastic cradle is probably for initial assembly reasons - once the lower ends are seated in the heater core and the upper ends are held captive by the 'two holed plate' they are not going anywhere. I didn't even attempt to put a new wrap on there once it was all together.

[JayPinNC]

JayPinNC - I don't know if your're still active on this forum, but I just used your instructions to replace my heater core - thanks for the tips - very helpful.

I think the only things I'd add for future readers is:
- The stop-light switch has 2 tapered pads - one at the top and one at the bottom - you can press a piece with 3 parallel ridges to release them.
- The tie-wrap holding the 2 pipes to their white plastic cradle is probably for assembly reasons - once the lower ends are seated in the heater core and the upper ends are held captive by the 'two holded plate' they are not going anywhere. I didn't even attempt to put a new one on there once it was all together.

Awesome! Glad it was helpful. I sold my XC a few months ago when I saw some expensive repairs in my future. But I'm looking for a newer model. "Loved the car, hated the year" is probably the best way to sum it up.

I remember the stop-light switch now - I recall it being a bit tricky. Wish I'd made a video of the whole thing...

As for the pipes, your logic makes sense - probably makes them a bit more manageable during assembly.

[skibo]

I'll also add for others' future reference that a few days after I put in the new core I took a 'baseline' measurement of the duct outlet temperature to see what a healthy core is capable of, so that I can watch for any future clogging.

With the two thermostats 'full on', the fan set to full, the AC off, the recirc turned to manual (off), and only the 'middle' vents selected, and with the engine temp gauge at its normal vertical condition, I measured 156F (69C) at the vent with an outside temperature of 43F (6C). That was the in-motion reading - at idle it dropped to approximately 140F (60C), probably due to the lower water pump speed driving less coolant through the core.

[skibo]

Oh - one last thought and then I promise I'm done. I got the stop light switch out with a little difficulty, and considered marking which side was the top, until I noted that the top was filty from 10 years of dust and the bottom was clean. I handed it to my 10 year old who promptly wiped all the dust off. As it turns out, it goes in only one way so it wan't an issue (at work we call this 'poka yoke' which supposedly is a Japanese term for something that can be assembled only one way) .