Transmission after flush

[IpswichXC]

I have searched and have read. I have flushed. Can anyone tell me what might be done to prevent a replacement... if one is even needed?

Here are the symptoms:

I lived in Boston... it is getting cold. When I first start my car and leave in the morning my tranny will not shift. I can let off of the gas and it will shift. After a while the tranny will shift normal.

Also, all the time when I come to a stop the tranny will "clunk" into gear like my old chevy truck that needs a new U-joint. But really... it doesnt happen all the time... but most of the time. And it feels like it is getting worse.

Can this be something that can be adjusted? Could it be connected to the gas pedal... drive by wire?

Thanks!

[JRL]

Did you get new software?
Did you reset all the adaptations and do the drive cycle?
If not you need to also do this

You neglected to mention the miles

[IpswichXC]

I had a mechanic do the flush... volvo factory trained mechanic on his own . I will ask him about the software and your other points.

Can I reset adaptations and drive cycle?

Car has 144K

[JRL]

I had a mechanic do the flush... volvo factory trained mechanic on his own . I will ask him about the software and your other points.

Can I reset adaptations and drive cycle?

Car has 144K

Of course he didn't do software, that comes from the dealer.
I'm also sure he didn't do the adaptions and you really cannot do them yourself.
Disconnecting the battery doesn't fully reset the adaptions, it must be done thru the Volvo computer.
It may just be toast at 140K miles

[Meat Popsicle]

Make sure you its flushed check the fluid. Pull the cables from the battery let sit for 5-10 min then reattach. drive normal dont ream on it.

I did mine this way though tit was toast and VIOLA tranny is running great.

Since we have cooler weather in Texas the tranny always shifts great.

If you ask me, it has to do with tranny temps. I would bet a simple flush and a very good tranny cooler would keep our trannies shifting great. But I have searched time and time again on here and not to many have explored this.

When the tranny is cool with old fluid it shifts great but I would bet the tranny get internal way to hot with just the standard cooler........

[JRL]

Unfortunately this is not the right way, ALL the adaptors do not get reset with just a battery disconnect and "just drive normal" is an INcorrect drive cycle.

It's more than drive normally, you have to drive absurdly slow, accelerating in short cycles shifting at 1800 RPM's, Then at 2000, then at 2500, etc.
This takes only about 10 minutes but you need a place with no traffic so you can actually drive that slowly!
Shifting so it will shift at at 1800 rpm is literally laying your foot on the pedal without pushing it down

[Meat Popsicle]

works for me

[JRL]

You were lucky, most are not

[Blessyouboys]

Make sure you its flushed check the fluid. Pull the cables from the battery let sit for 5-10 min then reattach. drive normal dont ream on it.


Why? Why do you disconnect the battery?

[JRL]

Disconnecting partially resets the tranny adaptors, then you need to do the drive cycle I described above so it can re adapt properly.
The CORRECT drive cycle is VERY important!
(Otherwise you can make it worse)
The problem is ALL the adaptions are not reset this way, the correct way is thru the Volvo computer

[IpswichXC]

My other local guy has a computer where he drags the cable out to the car and plugs it in. But I am guessing that system will not be good enough to reset my tranny. I have heard that Volvo is very proprietary... you really have to go them. I'll ask him in any event.

This tranny as you know allows you to shift yourself... if you want to be sporty or if you are towing etc. It would be easy to make those rpm points performing the shifts mannaully... or would that not work? Do you need to have the brain of the tranny shift? I would be willing to try the DIY way and see if it works... but dont want to screw up the tranny any more than it already appears to be.

Also... please explain the drive cycles.... how to drive correctly so as to set the tranny correctly. You mention 1800... then 2000... 2500. Are you performing 3 separate cycles? As in your first run through all gears you want to tranny to change gears at 1800 for each gear? then the second run at 2000... then finally you want the car to go through all gears switching at 2500 rpm? Can you be more specific?

Appreciate it!

[JRL]

Essentially yes, but you must START the drive cycle the minute you reset the adaptors, not a mile down the road, RIGHT THEN.
Briefly, you start off driving as slowly as you can, let it shift at 1800 rpm thru 4th gear.
Stop repeat, letting it shift at about 2200 rpm, then 2500 rpm and finally 3000rpm.
If it's not shifting smoothly after that, repeat from the beginning until it does

[IpswichXC]

I see. So you are in essence programing your tranny to shift, creating different scenarios. I can see why it would be easier and better to have the computer put in those settings in an exact manner rather than trying to do it mannually.

Thanks

Any other suggestions?

[JRL]

The computer CLEARS all the old adaptions, you still must do the drive cycle.
Disconnecting the battery does maybe 75% of the clearing but not 100%

[IpswichXC]

The computer doesnt put in the basic drive cycles? pre-program them? How does Volvo do it to every new car?

Ok, so disconnect the battery for 10 mins and then go for a drive.

Thanks

[Allen]

Make sure you its flushed check the fluid. Pull the cables from the battery let sit for 5-10 min then reattach. drive normal dont ream on it.

I did mine this way though tit was toast and VIOLA tranny is running great.

Since we have cooler weather in Texas the tranny always shifts great.

If you ask me, it has to do with tranny temps. I would bet a simple flush and a very good tranny cooler would keep our trannies shifting great. But I have searched time and time again on here and not to many have explored this.

When the tranny is cool with old fluid it shifts great but I would bet the tranny get internal way to hot with just the standard cooler........


Can someone translate this into English?

[JRL]

The computer doesnt put in the basic drive cycles? pre-program them? How does Volvo do it to every new car?

Ok, so disconnect the battery for 10 mins and then go for a drive.

Thanks

:(:(:(:(:(
You're not listening, reading or the like
NO

[IpswichXC]

No I understand. It is not just a drive. it is a specific kind of drive. And disconnecting the battery will not clear all the problems or memorized adaptations that are in the computer.

[billr99]

:(:(:(:(:(
You're not listening, reading or the like
NO

Yeah, does not seem to be; but he does have a good question. How does Volvo do this at the factory? Or is it assumed that at the point of initial software load all the mechanical bits, pumps, etc. are all within the same tolerances where no adaptation is needed to adjust for the variables that come about thru wear and so on?

I haven't had a tonne of auto cars amongst all the ones I've had, but frankly this whole tranny deal with adaptation and software is BS. Seems to me in the interest of trying to get cute with adjusting shift points to driving styles they have undone reliability and ease of service. The question arises how Volvo can screw it up whilst Toyota using the same basic guts doesn't seem to have the same widespread issues. I can't buy it that it stems from the service interval deal (although my Benz specified a 15K mi. interval on its ZF) when there are ZFs out there in old 700 series that probably have never had a fluid/filter change. And I just can't believe that all the folks driving those Camrys are all that diligent either. [cussing]

Bill

[JRL]

Not a clue. I think they're all driven a few miles, perhaps they drive it off the line in a certain manner for the 1st few miles, perhaps there is a test loop, I have no idea.
As for Toyotas, they recommend a drain and fill every 30K. If Volvo owners did that there would be FAR fewer tranny issues!

[duncan]

IpswichXC,

You mentioned that the car has trouble shifting when it's cold. Just on the off chance that this is what you're referring to - our cars will hold their gears much longer when they are cold. In other words, the car will shift at a higher RPM than it would if it was warm. This is on purpose, to warm the system up as fast as possible.

I could see how this could worry someone if you didn't know it was on purpose...

[Aviator]

You mentioned that the car has trouble shifting when it's cold. Just on the off chance that this is what you're referring to - our cars will hold their gears much longer when they are cold. In other words, the car will shift at a higher RPM than it would if it was warm. This is on purpose, to warm the system up as fast as possible.

It's to heat the catalytic converter up quicker so as to keep tabs on good fuel mileage.

Dave.