White wax residue

[jtckane99]

:confused:Any one know how to get rid of the white wax residue on the plastic moldings? Dummy me, I used a high quality wax and buffed out the car and about three days later I have these white swirls at the top of all the plastics. I read thru the threads about re-juvinating the plastics, but saw nothing about getting the wax out. I would like to get it out before I treat the plastics with anything, so as not to impregnate it permanatly into the plastic. Any ideas. Some one mentioned using WD-40 or small amount of gasoline and a stiff nylon brush, that would probably dry out the plastic and make it brittle I would think??? Any ideas would be helpful...:confused:

[striperhound]

I've read in the past on various forums use a toothbrush and peanut butter. I'm reading a site at the moment re: using the PB no jelly. You can use the non-chunky version and if you get hungry while working.........................

Do a Google search for "removing white wax from plastic car bumpers" The same site I'm reading at the moment mentions, Mr Clean erasers.

[wgriswold]

I did much the same thing, although by hand. It was four years ago and the white stains are still apparent. The only thing that works for me is some stuff called 303. It makes the cladding black again, but as time goes by the white stains return. There may be a way to remove the wax, but I don't know what it is. 303 two or three times a year will at least cover the stains up. Now I mask off the plastic when I wax.

[gpaul3]

Mothers "Back to Black" takes it off and makes the plastic look like new.

[Lincoln]

XMT pad cleaner worked for me. Use a brush (appropriate for cars) to scrub into the grain of the plastic.
http://www.autogeek.net/xmt-pad-cleaner.html
I was going to use Forever Black (which has a dye and supposedly is a longer lasting solution than a lot of the "dressing" type products) but the pad cleaner got it to where I was happy. I'll wait awhile before using Forever Black.

FYI there are waxes that won't leave your trim looking bad. Search on the autogeek.net forums for suggestions.

[jtckane99]

Thank you all for the ideas, and suggestions. I am going to "autogeek" to check ou there stuff. And I have heard the "Mothers" product works well as a cover if you can't get the residue out. Thanks again, once again always a big help!!![happy]

[JRL]

No No do NOT use the Mothers stuff
AWFUL and washes right off in a rain, drips down and then looks terrible
Use the above poster's recommendation:

FOREVER BLACK. [thumbup]

If you can't find it, Google it and buy it on line.
It's the only stuff short of painting the moldings that has a chance of staying on for a year!

[BLUEH20]

Vasoline petroleum jelly. Used for many years in detail shops.

I know used ICE by Turtle Wax. Easy to use and NO WHITE RESIDUE. The package even recommends that you use it on your black plastic. I have used it on the black plastic and it is wonderful and very easy to use. No as long lasting as ZYMOL but with the ease and no reside, I can spiff it up more often with less effort.

[jtckane99]

Thanks to all for your input. Don't worry I won't use the Mother's...if you have had problems with it, then I definitly don't want the same effect. I did the Mr.Clean magic eraser trick, and it worked wonderfully:D. No real effort needed. Just had to apply a little pressure to get up around the body and the molding itself, other than that it was simply rudding on the light residue and it all came off, with one sponge mind you. I just had a clean cloth to wipe of the water residue and it looks great. I will try the "Forever Black", especially on my back bumper, it seems to get the most abuse.

Anyway, THANKS again, as always much appreciated advice.

[wgriswold]

I had tried everything else so I decided to try Mr. Clean magic erasers. I got a four pack and used three of then to clean all the cladding. Amazing. Not only did it get most of the wax, but I used it on all the cladding and it looks like new, with perhaps some fading. I learned that just using the wet eraser leaves some residue on the cladding as it dries. The successful technique was to use the eraser on a small portion, then wash it with soapy water and rinse before it dries. The only wax left is about 1/2 mm or so at the edge near the paint. I was reluctant to rub too hard there. Now I will apply the 303 (I don't have any Forever Black and no time now to find any, maybe next time) which has outperformed Mother's in my hands.

[duncan]

-- wrong thread! --

[Mink]

I had tried everything else so I decided to try Mr. Clean magic erasers.
Wait, are those the things you use around the kitchen to clean marks with water but no detergent? White color, wear out quite quickly with use? Just checking because they have a different name here. This may be what I'm looking for to clean my (dark brown) cladding.

[Motorhead]

Probably I know they sell the same thing under a different name here in Australia. They work really well on scuff marks on plastic & for getting leather clean too but remember to follow up with a leather conditioner afterwards.

[wgriswold]

Mink,

Yes. They are the size of chalkboard easers, seem to be made of white foam and disappear with use. They are meant to be used damp. There is a film left behind that must be washed off before it dries. At first I thought that the film was wax and dirt that had been brought into solution but now I wonder if, in fact it, was the eraser itself leaving very small parts of it behind. Every once in a while I washed the eraser in the bucket of soapy water that I used to clean off the residue.

I wish I knew how it works. Maybe some sort of mild abrasion combined with a chemical embedded in the foam? I have seen some variants of the Mr. Clean magic eraser that claim specific cleaning properties, but I bought the one marked "original".

I found this on Wikipedia:

Melamine foam
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search
The microfine structure of melamine foam, creating very hard, tiny fibres which scour some surfaces clean.
The microfine structure of melamine foam, creating very hard, tiny fibres which scour some surfaces clean.

Melamine foam is a foam-like material consisting of a formaldehyde-melamine-sodium bisulfite copolymer. The foam, because of its microporous properties, may remove otherwise "uncleanable" external markings from relatively smooth surfaces. For example, it can remove crayon, magic marker, and grease from painted walls, wood finishings, plastic adhering paints from treated wooden tables, and grime from hub caps.

The open cell foam is not only microporous, but its polymeric substance is also extremely hard, meaning that it works like sandpaper but on a smaller scale, getting into tiny grooves and pits in the subject being cleaned. On a larger scale, the material feels soft. Because the bubbles interconnect, its structure is more like a maze of fibreglass strands than like the array of separate bubbles in, for example, styrofoam.

The substance needs to be dampened to work properly. It does break down rather rapidly, so a given block of foam generally lasts only a single intensive scrubbing session, though it can be used repeatedly for much smaller marks.

While the name-brand "Magic Eraser" is made by Mr. Clean (Procter & Gamble), the foam itself is manufactured in Germany by BASF under the name "Basotect" and was already a common product before this new use was discovered. Other companies have also begun marketing it for its cleaning properties, either under other names, like Coralite Ultimate Sponge, or as a generic product.

Melamine foam has been used for over 20 years as insulation for both pipes and ductwork. It also has a long history as a soundproofing material for projects like studios, sounds stages and auditoriums. The low smoke and flame properties of melamine foam are very beneficial toward safety concerns[citation needed].

The Magic Eraser earned the Electrical Audio Intern's Corner "Key Buy" award in 2003.

[John@CdnRockies]

Similar to Walt Griswold I used the Mr. Clean magic eraser trick. I messed up the last waxing job and badly smeared the panels (have been super careful in the past). It looked awful and my pathetic tries at rubbing it away were hopeless. Then I read this thread and tried the Mr. Clean pads. Within a half hour all is right and with very little elbow effort involved.[happy]

Thanks for posting this tip.

John

[jtckane99]

To all who have benefitted from this tip, I am glad. This was one of the most frustrating things to deal with. I know I am not obsessed with a clean car, but when I do wash and wax it, I like it to come out looking better than when I started. My biggest fear was getting wax on the plastics/cladding of the car, because I was so afraid of this I put off waxing the car for a bout a year. Then I did it and the inevitable happened. That's when I found you guys, MY SAVIORS [thumbup], thanks to all the XC owners out there, I now no longer have a fear of keeping my car looking great. THANKS AGAIN and I hope this tip keeps getting hits because of the ease in which it does the job.

FYI : NEVER USE THE ERASERS ON SKIN!!! THEY WILL LEAVE NASTY BURNS ON THE SKIN. I HAD A FRIEND WHO WAS WIPING UP ONE DAY AND TURNED AND SIMPLY 'WIPED" HER KIDS FACE WITH IT THINKING NOTHING OF IT. THE CHILD CAM IN SCREAMING THAT HIS FACE HURT AND TO MAKE IT STOP. SHE RUSHED HIM TO THE ER AND TOLD THEM WHAT HAD HAPPENED AND THEY TREATED IT LIKE A CHEMICAL BURN. BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!

[Detailing Technology]

Tape off the trim with the blue 3M low adhesive tape. Take 4 minutes and saves you much more than that.

You can use a mild degreaser and a toothbrush to remove wax residue. Peanut butter works also.

[lexefx]

FOREVER BLACK. [thumbup]



+1 [thumbup] - Mine look awesome now!

Alex

[justthefacts]

My friend used the Magic Eraser to remove wax residue, but apparently did not rinse the area, and has effectively replaced wax residue with eraser residue. Do you think another application of the eraser, along with rinsing, will fix the problem?

As an alternative solution to the wax residue problem, I am considering this product from autogeek, a company from which I have received reliable service and decent products:
http://www.autogeek.net/wax-remover.html

Prevention is the best route, and I like the blue 3M Painter's Tape, as another poster suggested.