The BIG Transmission Posting: Gibbons method + other goodies!

[Forkster]

Knowing that I blabber too often here, I don't post a lot of stuff that I personally find interesting. However, I will toss this one out there for consideration. There are 7.5 liters of ATF in the transmission. Some people think it's good for life, which it is, technically. Good right up until the life of the transmission is cut short from dirty ATF. Volvo designed a counter in the TCM (transmission control module) to monitor hours vs load. After a given amount of use, a service message will pop up. I like to error on the safe side, so I just changed mine at 15K miles to get out the "break-in" junk and other generally oxidized fluid.

There are two schools of thought on what to do, easy and hard. Easy is to dump what is in the bottom of the transmission, and replace it. That will leave over half of the old ATF remaining, but diluted with new ATF (better than doing nothing). The hard way is to fork out $300+ to have the dealer "power flush" it to remove all the old. I read in Volvo documentation a way to flush it without the machine, but it looked like a plumbing monster involving magic proprietary wrenches to fit in impossibly tight areas. So I came up with this trick using a $4 vinyl tube, which does essentially the same thing.


http://img222.exs.cx/img222/7430/atf8ai.jpg

1. This is the outlet fitting at the top of the transmission cooler. The line off to the side with the o-rings is no-pressure return line back to the transmission. I pulled the line out, and put in a piece of 9/16" vinyl tube with teflon tape wrapped around the end (for a great seal) in the hole. It fits comfortably tight when pushed in, and didn't leak a drop. I put the other end of the tube in a container.

2. Pull the plug in the bottom of the transmission. about 3.1 liters of ATF will come out. Put the plug back in, and put in 3.1 liters of new ATF (through the dipstick hole) to replace what just drained out.

3. Start the engine. The ATF hiding in the rest of the transmission, cooler lines, and cooler will start to pump out though the vinyl tube into the container, while sucking the fresh fluid into those components. About 2.2 liters will come out before bubbles start coming out, stop the engine then. Measure it with a graduated vessel (pyrex cooking thingy I thugged from my wife), and put that much new ATF back in the trasmission. You need a helper to start and stop the engine, while you carefully monitor the flow. It takes about 1 minute.

4. Repeat the engine start/stop cycle again, pumping out another 2.2 liters.

5. At this point, the bad stuff will be gone and new ATF will be running clear and clean. Measure what you just pumped out, and replace that amount with new. You will be darn close to what you had in before you started, minus maybe a few CC that was left in the tube and on the container side walls. Remove tube and put real line back in cooler.

6. Run engine until hot, and check the fluid level. Adjust to marks on the dip stick. That's it!

Some general notes on this procedure:
- If you can change your own oil, you can do this.
- The ATF I pumped out at 15K miles was a dark mahogany color. In a pint canning jar, it was completely opaque, even holding it up to look at the sun through it. It is supposed to be translucent. It smelled OK. I think my trans has been working fine, my guess is that it was full of break-in particles, which are abrasive and that's why I like to get initial lubes out.
- The drain plug has a magnet in it. Mine had a small amount (if you compiled it, it might be like a grain of rice) of black "paste" on it, that's the metalic sludge from wear. When I do my truck service, I get a table spoon of the stuff. The XC plug had no "glitter" or chunks on the magnet, like I usually expect to see coming out of a geared mechanism. That's nice.
- I ordered 8 liters of real Volvo ATF from Borton for $90, locally it was $22 per liter. I saved enough to buy the PA-300 75w/ch stereo amp, which, by the way, is really cool.
- These transmissions are just too complex to hope that a technician could ever re-build one correctly. Sorry, but that's how I see it. A "new" one (factory rebuilt) is $3200. The number one cause of transmission failure is dirty ATF. I think this is pretty cheap insurance. My next one will be at 50K, and 50K's after that.
.

[Forkster]

Here's my experience:
I called Mobil customer service and they provided me with a phone number to a distributor in my area, who then gave me a phone number to a dealer close to home. They sold me 2 cases of Mobil ATF 3309 for 83.92, since the distributor had them in stock there was no shipping charge (extra $20/case).
http://www.volvoxc.com/volvo_photo_gallery/albums/userpics/Resize%20of%203309.JPG
http://www.volvoxc.com/volvo_photo_gallery/albums/userpics/Resize%20of%20volvo%201161540.JPG
assemble the tools, as suggested before:
-Extra green clip and 2 o-rings
-drain pail
-9/16 or 3/4 hose, ( the opening in the radiator is 19mm or 3/4" but the return line is 13mm or just over 1/2" diameter, the 9/16 tube I had fit snug when I pushed it into the same depth as the return line goes), get about 4 ft long
-funnel with hose to refill trans oil
-Mobil ATF 3309 oil (12-18 qt) Herein referred to as "oil"
-stopwatch or clock

I started by removing the lower belly pan and removing the drain plug from the transmission (large brass colored bolt facing passenger side of car).
Remove transmission oil return line from top of Radiator by squeezing the green clip and pullin out on tubing, mine was stuck and I needed a small pry bar to get it out.
Insert proper diameter drain hose, make sure it fits tight, the flow is under low pressure and will force the hose out if not secure.
Refill the trans with 2 qt of oil. Start car and time how long it takes to get bubbles in hose (mine took 35 sec). I didn't like the sound that I heard when running it empty so on the following runs I stopped it before I got bubbles in the line (25 -30 sec).
http://www.volvoxc.com/volvo_photo_gallery/albums/userpics/Resize%20of%20Waste.JPG
Refill trans again with 2 qt of oil and repeat process until satisfied with the color of the waste. In the pictures there is a tube of identical material filled with fresh oil to use as a reference control.
I missed getting pictures of the first few changes but here is the color of the waste oil after my 8 L flush
http://www.volvoxc.com/volvo_photo_gallery/albums/userpics/Resize%20of%208%20L.JPG
10 L getting better
http://www.volvoxc.com/volvo_photo_gallery/albums/userpics/Resize%20of%2010%20L%7E0.JPG
12 L looking good still a little brown
http://www.volvoxc.com/volvo_photo_gallery/albums/userpics/Resize%20of%2012%20L.JPG
14 L (picture looks darker than 12 L)
http://www.volvoxc.com/volvo_photo_gallery/albums/userpics/Resize%20of%2014%20L.JPG
16 L I should stop here, No maybe one more go at it!!
http://www.volvoxc.com/volvo_photo_gallery/albums/userpics/Resize%20of%2016%20L.JPG
I should have stopped at 16 L, or check my waste tube, it got pushed out of the radiator housing. AAAAAAHHHHHHH why is there no oil moving in the waste tube????
http://www.volvoxc.com/volvo_photo_gallery/albums/userpics/Resize%20of%20spill.JPG
Well at 18 L I had a big mess to clean up but the oil looked as good as my control tube.
http://www.volvoxc.com/volvo_photo_gallery/albums/userpics/Resize%20of%2018%20L.JPG
remove waste tube and carefully reinsert oil line.
After adjusting the level and driving the car for an hour the fluid looks as dirty again as it did at the 8L flush, I guess there are more pockets of oil to flush out than this method is able to reach.
Here's what I suggest, the next time I do it I'm going to just change to 10 L and then adjust the level and drive the car for a bit. Then continue on with the process and flush out again until it's like the 18 L clarity. It'll probably take extra oil but save 2.5 L aside to do the final fill and adjustment.
p.s. I flushed the system with the last 4 L that I had and the fluid cleared up to about the 12 to 14 L clarity. Not as good as the 18 L but It'll have to do since I'm out of fresh oil.
.

[Forkster]

Mobil 3309 or Toyota Type T-IV or Volvo 116-1540-8 fluid

I can put Toyota IV or Mobile 3309 ATF in my Volvo?

You bet. Asin & Warner (who makes the XC70 transmissions) are sub-division of Toyota Motor Corporation hence why our transmissions can take Toyota T-IV fluid or Mobil 3309. The Volvo fluid is actually rebadged Mobil 3309 at 3-5X the cost.

Toyota Type T-IV: $5-7 a quart
Mobil 3309: ~ $7 quart.
Volvo 116-1540-8: $20-$35 a quartMore info here: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11368

[Forkster]

I installed the Magnefine filter yesterday. Removing the air inlet pipe helped to give access to the very confined space ...I cut the return pipe from the ATF radiator / cooler about 1.5" below the exit bend, just enough for the filter spout and to allow for some bending. I ended up removing only about 1" of the pipe and it is now installed without any sharp bends or kinks. :D

I used a small ratchet / socket spanner (1/4") to fasten the clamps as it gave more leverage than a screwdriver and helped to keep my hands away from skin-bruising parts ... but even then, I became a "skin donor" as Gibbons had warned ...:eek:

Testing the AFT level after driving the car to check for leaks, I noted that the ATF - which I had replaced about 6.000 miles ago at just under 70.000 miles - is still clean. [thumbup] Next replacement will be at about 115.000 - 120.000 miles (180.000 km). PS I used Toyota T-IV and have experienced no problems. ;)

Here are the promised pictures:
1 = view from the top showing the return line from the cooler and where I cut the pipe
2 = view of the bottom end, showing the "gentle" curve of the return line - NO sharp bend or kinked line. To achieve this, I removed about 1" of the pipe
3 = overall view of the complete job
Note that the air intake pipe has been removed - if that was still in place, none of these photographs would have been possible
.

[Khoss]

After adjusting the level and driving the car for an hour the fluid looks as dirty again as it did at the 8L flush, I guess there are more pockets of oil to flush out than this method is able to reach.

I flushed my tranny in my '01 XC yesterday. After reading Texascanuck's post I decided to try having my partner shift from N to D to R to N during the flush, holding it in each position for 3 seconds or so. I thought this might deliver new fluid to areas that leaving it in Neutral might otherwise not reach. Forgive me, I don't know the schematics of the inner workings of our transmissions. Maybe shifting had no effect whatsoever on the fluids end clarity but my flush turned out great, looks brand new! At the very least, shifting during the flush didn't hurt anything (that I can tell).
The fluid that was in there when I bought the car a month ago looked like it had never been changed (79k miles). I used Mobile 1 synthetic ATF, I'll post if I have any problems because of it.

[BillAileo]

Although in 2008 Mobil changed its description to state that Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF had been reformulated and met the JWS 3309 specification , IT NO LONGER TAKES THAT POSITION! In response to an April 2011 email inquiry I submitted, a Mobil representative informed me that Mobil no longer claims JWS 3309 compliance for Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF and that the correct product to use in our Volvos is Mobil 3309.

[Squirell]

I have two questions regarding this method and would be very appreciative if someone could help. 1. The dealership says that they "readapt" the transmission when they do this service. Is that true? If it isn't readapted could it cause damage?
2. I have a mechanic who deals in amzoil which is jws3309 compatible. Will this ATF be ok? Thanks for any help.

[Astro14]

Read through the Valve Body Replacement notes for a description of the adaptation procedure.

If the fluid is in good shape, probably not needed. If you're trying to fix a problem...then you should do the adapt, which can ONLY be done with VADIS.

Amsoil is great stuff. While Amsoil is recommended for use where JWS-3309 is specified, I don't think I would use it in this application...It's a synthetic that is used for a wide range of applications, not specifically designed for this transmission.

Consider what Mobil says about their own Mobil 1 synthetic fluid, "However, the Toyota/Lexus ATF is specifically designed for those vehicles and will provide optimum performance." like Amsoil, it is synthetic, great stuff, and recommended for a wide range of applications...but they caution that the specific JWS-3309 fluid is better for the Toyota transmission (and our beloved AW55-50SN is a Toyota transmission...)

In my transmission, I stick with the Toyota T-IV or Mobil 3309.

[Squirell]

Thank you!

[Astro14]

Just found out that Ford sells Motorcraft XT-8-QAW for Fusion and other models equipped with an Aisin-Warner transmission. It is certified to meet JWS-3309, which at Ford, is known as WSS-M2C924-A.

Another source of locally available, reasonably priced trans fluid for the AW55-51SN...[thumbup]

Cheers,
Astro

[dhamblet]

Had the AW50 tranny in our 2002 V70 flushed a couple of months ago. The shop used Maxlife, Dextron 3 Mercron + Lubeguard additive made by Valvoline. I know the transmission is fussy about type of fluid used. Any advice on is this fluid a problem and should I immediately flush it out and replace it with the recommended Motorcraft fluid?

[Astro14]

Valvoline Maxlife is a DEXRON III/MERCON product...it's good stuff, I use it in my truck that specifies DEXRON II. (note that there is no "T" in DEXRON...)

On the Valvoline website, it says "Recommended for use where.....Toyota T-IV..." and in the FAQs it says" Does MaxLife ATF meet the spec for Volvos with a Geartronic Transmission?

Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc ATF will meet Volvo specifications that require the use of TIV or JWS3309 ATF."

I am not a fan of using Maxlife, doctored with Lubegard Red or not (nothing wrong with lubegard either...), in this transmission...but since Valvoline says it will work, I wouldn't run out and flush it either. Note that a claim to be appropriate is not the same as a certification that fluid meets specifications.

The question, for your shop, is why use Maxlife, when the specified product (Mobil 3309 or Toyota T-IV or even the Motorcraft) is the same price? Do they get Maxlife in bulk? Too lazy to go out and buy it?

[Ars Gladius]

Right, so I have everything together to do a flush. 15L of M1 3309, nice graduated "thing of measure" to collect the output in, tubing, new crush washer for the drain, etc.

My question is how the hell do you get to and get the dipstick out?

My hands are fairly slim, but bloody hell did they build the car around the transmission...any hints to make it easier?




Also attached are the VIDA instructions for checking the fluid level and an explanation of the dip stick marks.

[Astro14]

It sure is difficult...I couldn't even find the stupid thing the first time I looked for it...I've got no hints, except to wear a long sleeve shirt when you check it hot...or you'll burn yourself on something...:mad:

[Davidatthepoint]

I have never tried filling the tranny through the dipstick hole. I have big hands and it is a ridiculously difficult place it access.
All I do is put my funnel and shorter tube straight over the o-rings on the return line fitting (which you have just pulled out of the cooler) and add fluid through that into the top of the valve body cover.
Seems to work fine.

[Astro14]

I use a funnel with the integral long tube...it's maybe 1/2" OD...and fits right into the dipstick tube...hadn't thought of your method...but since I have to pull the dipstick anyway....

[Bellaken9]

Welcome to the forum. I am new in this forum too and excited as I found many informative threats here.
Hope to see you participating actively in the forum.

[Astro14]

One quick note:

When I do this, I have 14 QTS on hand and have found that 10-12 total (including the initial 3.5 Qt drain/refill and the 2L pump/refill cycles) usually results in crystal clear fluid.

In addition, I have my assistant (my lovely wife, owner of the car) shift to D for one 2L cycle and shift to R for one 2L cycle. My theory (unproven) is that those two selector positions will pump fluid through different passages in the trans than P, getting more of the old fluid out....

At $6/QT for the fluid (T-IV, from our Toyota Dealer, who gives us a 10% discount), the extra few Qts are cheap...

[AKAMick]

Rather than flushing the transmission occasionally. I always when changing the oil and filter, and naturally having to remove the belly pan. I remove the trans plug, its right there, and dump out the the usual 3.5 quarts of fluid. Finish up the oil and filter change, and fit my funnel and clear pvc tube into the trans dipstick tube and put in the replacement 3.5 quarts of new fluid. So the toyota trans is constantly being refreshed with new fluid, it doesnt cost much extra to do this and you get to drain the the trans sump, and there is always some sediment in there that drains out.

[Pete B]

I have never tried filling the tranny through the dipstick hole. I have big hands and it is a ridiculously difficult place it access.
All I do is put my funnel and shorter tube straight over the o-rings on the return line fitting (which you have just pulled out of the cooler) and add fluid through that into the top of the valve body cover.
Seems to work fine.

This sounds a good alternative to get the fluid in, especially if it could be applied to the TF-80 6 speed AT as this one doesn't have a dipstick. There is a proper filler plug (unlike the 5 Speed AW55) with a Torx socket head but it's not easily accessible.

How long does it take to put a litre or quart of fluid in by this method?

Thanks

[Astro14]

I don't like it...every time you disconnect that line, you have to replace the o-rings...so for a D&F, you're replacing the o-rings? And if you're off by 200 ml (which is likely...mine drains slightly differently each time), then what, you're going to pull the cooler hose again?

Just get a $1.99 funnel that's got a long and flexible tube on it, keep it clean use it only for this...

And for the 6 speed (which should be discussed in another forum), those transmissions have very specific fill/level check procedures...very specific...so, without a dipstick, why would you be adding fluid unless you followed those procedures?? Incidentally, this is true for lots of late-model cars, they have sealed transmissions...

[hounddog]

Just wanted to say that if the serial # on your Aisen Warner falls within the range quoted on the forum, by all means get the kit (under $25.!) and have it
installed (about $80.) Generally the range includes XC 70s manufactured between March '01 and July '02.

I had serious shift harshness/rpm flare from 2nd to 3rd, and this install fixed the problem completely. Not only that, it provided a much smoother downshift from 3rd to 2nd.

This is my first post to the forum, and it appears this fix saved me $4K!!!

I have also heard from a number of Volvo mechanics that a power flush for high mileage transmissions IS dangerous because it can dislodge sludge that could then clog the valve body. A better fix is frequent service which allows for half the trans fluid to be drained and replaced, with the addition of a half pint of Seafoam Transtune. This hopefully will clean the valve body over time with less danger of a clog forming.

Best ~ Hounddog

[sdshawver]

I'm taking my '01 V70XC to the dealer for the fuel pump recall. I'm going to have the transmission flashed as well. Just had it rebuilt but they didn't flash the transmission and I have the neutral stop issue. I have a copy of the 2006 TSB to reflash to remove and update the software. I think I have the same problem with many that the service writer is going to tell me either I don't need it or sell me more service. She claims $125 for the work. Doesn't sound bad, but the TSB says .3 hr labor. I love the help here as it is big help to know what has transpired before. Seems like in Texas the word Volvo is not in any of the known languages on Earth.

[Astro14]

My understanding of the Volvo Service for Life policy is this: if your car is in for other work, they will update the software for FREE.

So, with the fuel pump recall, your car is already in for work...so, why the charge?? Search the threads, there are several threads on the policy as stated by Volvo...and lots of dealers that try to slime out (intransitive verb...meaning to dishonestly avoid) of that policy and charge you for what the company says should be provided for free...

http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/yourvolvo/volvoserviceforlife/pages/default.aspx

http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/yourvolvo/maintenance-services/volvo-service-for-life/Documents/Volvo_Service_for_Life.pdf

[Davidatthepoint]

How can you not disconnect this line if you're doing a flush? However I see your point when it comes to getting a final level at the end .....I did do that small amount through the dipstick hole.
I guess I like idea of all that nice new fluid flowing over and through the valve body.

[Astro14]

Looks like a neater/cleaner way to fill it...I'll have to give it a try...

Since the old fluid goes into a measured container ( I use a washer fluid bottle, 2 Qts at a time), there should be no problem with filling this way...

But I don't think that it matters that the fluid lands on the VB...the only fluid going through it came through the pump first...

[mustangman]

I want to install the magnetic micro inline filter like Folkster did. Does any one happen to know the inside diameter of the hose I have to cut is? I think it's ether 5/16 or 3/8. Would like to have the filter ready ti install so if I knew what the hose diameter is I could order it now. Great site, have leaned a lot from you all.

[Astro14]

Check out Howard's site .. He describes how he installed it...google Howard's Volvo

[tribologist]

Hi,

I did the oil on my 2001 with 125K last night.

I been reading the forum on various ways to change the oil and I was concerned over all the disasters described and the sensitivity of the fill volume and the significant thermal expansion of the ATF fluid. To address that I did it little different. I purchased new o-rings and a new clip for the cooler connection and when I changed them I measured all the dimensions of the fitting and made a copy of it that I put a 1/2" hose barb on. I re-used the old rings and the clip for it.This allowed me to get a 100% secure hose connection. I also got a hose that slipped nicely over the oil return fitting that I connected to a funnel for filling the new fluid into the tranny.

(I was intending to fill through the dip stick and made a "dipstick lookaliker" with a hose barb on but it appeared easier to fill through the return line.)

To change the oil I put a gallon bottle on a Sams club remote readout shipping scale that allowed me to measure the weight of the oil I pumped out while sitting in the car. I then weighted and marked the Toyota oil bottles (nom 870g total, 800g oil). Using the shipping scale I took out about 1600g oil at the time and filled back two quarts. After I was almost through my 12 qt I did a careful tally on all the container weights using a more precise 5g resolution kitchen scale allowing me to fill the oil back within +-20 grams. A full gallon bottle is only about 3000g so you don't need a big scale. Make sure you weigh and mark all containers (including the fresh oil ones) before starting.

I also measured the dry weight on my rag so I could account for the oil spill I got when disconnecting the hose from the cooler.

This is probably nothing new but it is worth repeating since it makes it much easier and less risky. It is quite hard to measure three gallon very precisely and the dip stick sensitivity and the oil expansion issue makes it tricky to know how much oil to add back in when filling. Using the mass of the fluid eliminates most errors and it allow you to know exactly how much oil you took out and putting back in including minor spills. (Just weight the rag after you collected the spilled oil on it.)

the Harbor freight 5000g $19 scale is probably perfectly fine for this.

Here are the fittings I made, the second one is for the dipstick tube but I have not needed it yet since I filled through the return hose.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FaV7NnrXYKU/T9AZxOHDQtI/AAAAAAAAA34/sEmhhBky_-o/s512/IMAGE_82776430-03E4-4E96-B7EC-282E34CE57D2.JPG


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Tb6KMkwjF7A/T9AZrhdO_9I/AAAAAAAAA3w/MsvAqA583a8/s512/IMAGE_D5C77262-D46F-4CDE-8FA9-14D8EFD7D65C.JPG

[Julien]

Hi, a small point, but is the transmission drain plug washer the same part as the engine oil drain plug?

[Astro14]

Yep - sure is...

[CS Shaun]

Thanks for the great information.
I called around and found the Toyota T-IV at 8.06/quart which they gave me "wholesale pricing" since I was buying 16 quarts which ended up to be $6.20/quart.(Much better than the $29.00 per quart that my Volvo Dealership quoted.)

I ended up using 5/8" O.D. clear hose which fit very snug into the radiator without teflon tape.
Also, I wasn't comfortable with the funnel into the dipstick tube so I ended up connecting a piece of the clear hose from my funnel to the return line which worked out very well.

I got 4 quarts out of the tranny and 3 quarts per "pump cycle". After pumping 16 quarts out, I felt like the color was pretty close to the new going in.
I think that my tranny started out over-full because it was reading above the full mark before I started and after I put 15 quarts back in, it was perfect on the dipstick. I'll check it again tomorrow when I have daylight.
Anyway, everything went smoothly and it's true that if you can change your own oil, you can do this tranny flush.

[Igot2problems]

No TOOLS GIBBONS METHOD (NO TOOLS REQUIRED, empties neatly into 3 one gallon jugs with lids, took 20 minutes, 80% clear fluid on 12 qt swap out)

First, I think that Gibbons is brilliant and thank him for coming up with the method.

Second, I have limited mobility and I did version of the Gibbons method that maybe other with mobility issues can use.

1) I did not get under the car nor do i have lift, therefore I did not drain the transmission from the drain plug...Simply, I didn't drain it below.
2) I just pulled the return line from the transmission cooler/radiator and put the 9/16" O.D. clear hose (4ft long reaches the bottom of a milk jug exactly if car is on ground) in with teflon tape wrappings until it fit into the cooler hole where I had pulled out the return line by pinching the green clip.
3) I put other end of 9/16" O.D. clear poly hose into a one gallon milk jug that I marked a 2 quart fill line on the side of the milk jug (NOTE: earlier, I poured two 1 qt canning jars of water in and marked the 2 quart level on the milk jugs, three jugs total with lids).
4) I pumped out 2 quarts to the line by starting car and letting the hose run and shutting the car off at 2 qt line.
5) I added 2 quarts of new transmission Toyota Type IV fluid.
6) Since there are four quarts in a gallon, I repeated starting the car and turning it off when I topped off the gallon jug.
7) I did this until I had cycled out and added 10 quarts.

8) SPECIAL NOTE: On the last time that I would start the car and let the fluid go up to the 2 quart mark to get towards 12 quarts, I stopped at about 1 1/4 quart region - this left me 3/4 of a new quart in excess to account for spillage and to top off the fluid level after warming up the car and shifting through the gears braked and at an idle until warm. Once I had the proper fill mark between "cold" and "hot" on the dipstick, I then I drove it around a bit, backing it up in a school parking lot for 100 ft a couple of times and then driving home on the highway...all my shifting kicks and stammers were completely gone. My fluid color is 80% clear and before it was not able to see through at all. I checked fluid level as "hot" and my level happened to be within tolerance. Slightly under the "hot' mark. DO NOT OVERFILL, IT INCREASES PRESSURE IN THE TRANNY AS THE FLUID AND PARTS EXPAND AND YOU CAN BLOW SEALS AND SUCH AS I UNDERSTAND!!

NOTES: The way I did the Gibbons method saved me in the following ways:
- I USED ZERO TOOLS!!!!!!! (I don't have many but this needed done on a budget and fast)
- I did not have to take off the bottom plastic engine shield. Nor did I need to lift the car in any way nor crawl under it.
- I did everything standing up standing right in front of the driver's side headlight (I have back problems).
- My mess to clean up consists of three one gallon milk jugs with old fluid in them and the empty new quart bottles.

HELPFUL HINT: You can use the driver's side headlight wiper to hold the clear hose straight down into whatever you drain your fluid in..in my case, gallon jugs.

I was able to do this in 20 minutes and got 80% visibility on my fluid and all problems solved. I used 12 quarts that cost $77.00 including tax from a Toyota dealer.

All I can say is thank you Gibbons whomever you are, you saved me in every way!!!! I had to do it like this personally due to my physical limitations. If this method has faults to it, please chime in and correct anything that I may have taken for granted or assumed. I do not wish to proliferate nor encourage something improper. All I can say is that my fluid is 80% clean and it is on the right mark on the dipstick and all problems were resolved. I encourage people adding to or correcting this post if i am wrong in any way in the way I have done this. Maybe others have already discovered this shortcut in other posts. But what I like best is the quarts and gallon units. I have still not converted to the metric system....again, no tools :)

[bmesco]

Can you use Idemitsu ATF-TLS? I couldn't find the exact toyota brand and the local Bap Geon counter crossed it to this stuff. Anyone ever used it? Or should I keep looking? It does say on the box for Toyota and Lexus use.. The computer at the counter did show this for the xc 70 as well. Any thoughts??

[Astro14]

Idemitsu says that it meets T-IV.

But the real question is: why?

Don't you have a Toyota dealer nearby? They stock T-IV for a reasonable price.

Do you get UPS at your house? You can order Mobil 3309 and have it shipped for about the same price.

so, with 2 really good, inexpensive options that are perfectly suited, why bother finding other potential substitutes?

[bmesco]

Idemitsu says that it meets T-IV.

But the real question is: why?

Don't you have a Toyota dealer nearby? They stock T-IV for a reasonable price.

Do you get UPS at your house? You can order Mobil 3309 and have it shipped for about the same price.

so, with 2 really good, inexpensive options that are perfectly suited, why bother finding other potential substitutes?

Sure I could order it on ebay there is a case on there, but I too live in Va and most of it on there is in CA. Shipping says 40 bucks for a case.. And I live at least an hour or more from a Toyota dealer, so just weighing the options.. Thanks for the input

[bmesco]

Okay, so I got the correct fluid and did the change as described.. I also added a 1/2 of can of trans tune to try and clear the problem up. The car has 128k on it, it's fairly new to me so i don't know the past maintance history on it but it is doing some funny things shifting. It's usally between 3rd and 4th and it revs up and then hits hard. Typically it's when you are easy on the throttle, assuming thats because of low line pressure? Even after changing the fluid it's still doing it, it also downshifts a little harder than usall. My question is the servo, could this be a possibility? Is that a possible cause of these symtoms? Is that a easy fix? Please advise..

[Trombles]

I think I read somewhere that the only tranny fluid filter was a fine mesh screen somewhere. Is this true? And if so, could someone please instruct me as to where it is.

Thank you.

[Astro14]

Deep inside the transmission. Removing the valve body is not enough to gain access to the filter...you have to remove the transmission from the car and disassemble it...

I wouldn't worry about the filter. flush the fluid and be done with it.

[Trombles]

Thanks Astro14, I'm off to do my 2nd flush now!

[Trombles]

After 5 pumps the fluid was looking more or less like the clean fresh stuff that was going in.

My next tranny work will be the B4 Servo cover; I have a harsh upshift N-D 2-3 and flares throughout pretty much.

Love this forum.

[DakotaMike]

OK, new here so the answer may be around in the forum somewhere but haven't found it yet:

2003, 103K miles, no transmission issues it's just time to change the transmission fluid. I am very wary of treating my box to the best stuff given the horror stories on here.

For transmission fluid it seems Mobil 3309 is the preferred choice. My local indy Volvo shop suggested synthetic fluid when i called for a quote. Now are they just upping the job profit without any benefits or is that a good choice? (I don't know which synthetic they use)

[JRL]

NO NO NO!
3309 or Toyota Type IV, (same stuff) ONLY!
Go to a Toyota dealer and buy a case of Type IV yourself and avoid the markup.

(It was time to change the fluid 50,000 miles ago)

[DakotaMike]

NO NO NO!
3309 or Toyota Type IV, (same stuff) ONLY!
Go to a Toyota dealer and buy a case of Type IV yourself and avoid the markup.

(It was time to change the fluid 50,000 miles ago)

Thanks JRL. I have records that show it was done at 54K miles so it is due.

[equigna]

.
Hi,

I am not native english and I didn't understant exactly what I need to pull in step 2 of your tutorial
"Pull the plug in the bottom of the transmission"
Can you explain me with more detail or picture ?

Thank you very much for your help
Regards
Erwan

[ssicarman]

Hi,

I am not native english and I didn't understant exactly what I need to pull in step 2 of your tutorial
"Pull the plug in the bottom of the transmission"
Can you explain me with more detail or picture ?

Thank you very much for your help
Regards
Erwan

Welcome to the Board.



2. Pull the plug in the bottom of the transmission. about 3.1 liters of ATF will come out. Put the plug back in, and put in 3.1 liters of new ATF (through the dipstick hole) to replace what just drained out.


The plug is the transmission fluid drain plug on the bottom of the transmission. It should be at the engine side of the transmission. I don't have a picture of the location.

[topherbecker]

This same method is well used in the Toyota Landcruiser community where it's called a Rodney flush (after a well known Aussie transmission guru).

My question is has anyone modified this method by constantly adding new fluid as the old comes out (no stopping/starting vehicle). First decide how much you want to flush based on how much new fluid you have. Mark a 5 gal bucket to that same volume. Turn car on until bucket fills to line, turn vehicle off, and let any additional new fluid drain into transmission.

Think it will work?
-chris

[JRL]

We do that, takes two people

[tj2k]

Hello everyone, 1st post! I'm in Shropshire UK!

Just bought a 131,000 miles XC70 2006 (has some tweaks from the last of this shape model - such as the indicators in the wing mirrors) - its got a full service history but I suspect that the ATF has never been changed. The car drives fines.

What I don't know is, is the guide in this thread suitable for my Auto box? I guess it might be - but I don't know how many gears the transmission has (I suppose I could go put the car in manual mode and shift up down to see - but would like some reassurance from here if possible).

ATF fluid over her seems MUCH more expensive. Its about £13 per litre - so $20? (US$)... Cheapest mobil 3309 I could find was £188 delivered for 20 litres (it was cheaper to buy a 20l volume than 12-14 single litres!).

I want to do this ASAP, I like the peace of mind that the ATF has been changed!!

[JRL]

You have a 5 speed auto box, put it in manual mode and look at your dashboard.
Your gear is then displayed in front of you.

By VERY careful at these miles, only do a Gibbons type fluid flush, NEVER a power flush and you must use Mobil 3309 or Toyota Type 1V

Side mirror turn signals, this is a world wide 2007, the last year.
(For the life of me, I don't understand why the Brits make this confusing by using the original sale date for their model year).

and yes, you're in the right place and you need at least 12 US quarts of fluid, (I don't know how much that is in litres).