2004 XC70 CEL after adding fuel

[mrshollysXC]

Hello everyone,

I am a newbie to the forum, but have spent the last several hours tonight online reading the great information here.

Here is a little about a problem that I am having as of today with my Cross Country.

My car has 52k miles on it and today after work, I stopped by a gas station to get some gas. I like to add fuel when the car goes to half a tank. Anyway, I stop, get gas, and it "almost" fills the car up. I pre-paid $25 thinking it would fill it up, but it didn't just quite.

Well, I get back in my car and I start it up, pull out of the parking lot, glance down to see how the gas hand looks, and bam...I see the Check Engine Light! Arggh! [cussing]

I almost fell over! Why? Well, because my husband I just bought this 1 owner car a week and 3 days ago! We have put 800 miles on it (took it on a weekend trip) with no problems. Had put gas in it before, with no problems!

Took it to a mechanic and they read the following codes:

P0600
P0571
P0504
P0863
U0073
P2402

Now, I'm officially freaking out! Looks like a lot of bad codes to me! We called the Volvo dealer and they just acted not really surprised and I made an apt. to take it in on Wednesday.

My husband and I did purchase an extended warranty when we bought the car...so I'm hoping repairs will be covered.

I was under the initial impression that maybe I had just not tightened the gas cap tightly enough. I stopped and checked that out though, even re-tightened it and re-started the car, but the stupid light still came back on.

Anyone know anything about these codes? I tried to look them up, but only one came back and actually told me anything.

My husband wanted to disconnect the battery, but I was afraid for him to do that. *LOL*

Any thoughts?

[BillAileo]

I recommend that you know what you are doing before disconnecting the battery on late model volvos. If I remember correctly, it is important to wait at least ten minutes after shutting down the car before disconnecting the negative terminal and to wait a further ten minutes after disconnecting the battery before doing any work....

I have no idea why you got the codes but the general definitions of them are:

P0600- serial communications link malfunction
P0571 -cruise control/brake Switch A circuit
P0504 - brake switch a/b correlation
P0863 - TCM Communication Circuit
U0073 - Control Module Communication Bus Off
P2402 - Evap Emission System Leak Detection Pump Control Circuit High

Was the car running properly? Has anybody been doing any work with wiring connections on it?

[Aviator]

Hi there....I just looked up the codes myself. U0073 actually refers to SAS control module, CAN system comm. error. Sounds to me, as Bill suggests, that you might have an open or poor connection somewhere. I'd start with checking all ground connections to be sure they are clean and tight. Then I'd dig a bit deeper and start at major connectors and harness breaks. It almost sounds like it's CEM related. Has the car ever been in an accident ?

Dave.

[BLUEH20]

Whoa Hoss!

Lets start with the most simple thing and one that is related to the event just prior to the CEL setting.

Remove the gas cap. Check the seal surface-on the cap it is a rubber o-ring. No problems there-Run you finger over the mateing surface on the filler tube--no problems there. Reinstall the gas cap per instructions in the owners manual. Turn it until you get three (3) distinct cliks of the locking mechanism.

With luck, as this is the most usual cause of P2402 - Evap Emission System Leak Detection Pump Control Circuit High, you will rid your self of this issue.

Eating the elephant one bite at a time. If the elephant ( CEL) is still sitting on the dash then a system cold rebot Battery Disconnet/Reconnect) as described in an earlier reply may be the solution.

In both cases you are not out any coin of the realm.

If you are dead set aganist your husband doing the battery thing-go to a reputable independent that services volvo and pay for the code rest service. The charge should be relatively inexpensive.

Keep us poseted-that way we can all benefit from you experience.

[Willy]

Hello and welcome.
Disconnecting/replacing the battery, see attachment.
Willy

[mrshollysXC]

Hey everyone!

Thank you for all of the replies! I am happy that at least one of the codes was the emissions code! That makes me think it IS the gas cap being not tightenend enough right after I got the fuel.

Before we bought the car, we had it car faxed and it came back clean, with no accidents reported, etc.

The service records were in the glove box with the only noted out-of-the-ordinary service call being for something called a total TCM upgrade. That was done at 42k miles. We bought the car at 52k, and the only other thing on the notes was a receipt where the owner had bought tires.

I called the previous owner and talked with him and he stated that the car had only had the one issue with the TCM. He said it had given him 2 transmission service messages and he took it in. They replaced a faulty TCM and did an upgrade (or something to that effect).

Yes, the car was totally running fine yesterday. If that light would not have been on, I would not have thought there was a problem at all. It was running and driving perfectly and I was rather enjoying my drive until I saw the orange glow of the CEL and then I freaked. :eek:

The dealer told us that it would cost us $100 just for the car to be checked on the machine, so if it is a gas cap thing...then I am at least out $100 bucks.

[Willy]

If it is the filler cap that was not correctly closed, the error will go away,
no need to go to the dealer, OBD codes go away if the cause no longer exist (takes a number of "runs").
Should all the codes disappear,you may think about a code reader, shouldn't have to cost a lot more than 100$ :)
Willy

[mrshollysXC]

If it is the filler cap that was not correctly closed, the error will go away,
no need to go to the dealer, OBD codes go away if the cause no longer exist (takes a number of "runs").
Should all the codes disappear,you may think about a code reader, shouldn't have to cost a lot more than 100$ :)
Willy

Hi Willy,

How long does it usually take for the CEL to go off if it was triggered by the filler cap being too loose?

I thought if I were to just tighten it back up, it would go off on its on, but that did not happen yet.

I have parked the car and am not driving it out of fear something will go wrong. Was just planning on driving it to the dealer tomorrow as I have an appointment. :(

Yes, my husband said he would very much like to have a code reader and is looking into purchasing one.

[goldxc70]

(snip to)
The dealer told us that it would cost us $100 just for the car to be checked on the machine, so if it is a gas cap thing...then I am at least out $100 bucks.

Is this the Volvo Extended Warranty $100 charge?

[BLUEH20]

Just reseat the cap as I mentioned in my earlier post. Once the evaporative purges systems checks out the system and there is a good vaccumn drawn the code for the emmissions will clear. This is not a $100.00 item.

The purge system can casue soft codes in other areas; be that the case they will clear after 255 cycles of the key--the memory for the cel is 256K. O1k per cycle.

Still recommend the cap and then the battery disconnect--a good procedure was posted earlier--If you really want to spend $100.00--do the self check items and donate the money to the local food bank.

[BLUEH20]

One More Thing--

The CEL is on constantly--that means only that a qualifing incident has occured. It may be nothing or something; but not earth shattering if the vehicle is performing correctly.

The CEL is blinking--your earth is now shattering--stop the vehicle--evalute the situtation--call for assistance and get the vehilce towed to repair facility.

What do I base this on--8 years as Service Manger at a Dealership.

[Aviator]

Remove the gas cap. Check the seal surface-on the cap it is a rubber o-ring. No problems there-Run you finger over the mateing surface on the filler tube--no problems there. Reinstall the gas cap per instructions in the owners manual. Turn it until you get three (3) distinct cliks of the locking mechanism.

With luck, as this is the most usual cause of P2402 - Evap Emission System Leak Detection Pump Control Circuit High, you will rid your self of this issue.


Don't mean to piss in your Corn Flakes BUT......this code does NOT refer to an unsealed fuel filler cap. It refers to a problem with the leak detection pump; either a problem with the pump itself, or connection thereto.


Eating the elephant one bite at a time. If the elephant ( CEL) is still sitting on the dash then a system cold rebot Battery Disconnet/Reconnect) as described in an earlier reply may be the solution.


Also, your implication that the MIL may go out after sealing up the fuel filler cap, is also dead wrong and misleading. Being a "service manager", you should know that the other fault codes have nothing to do with the emissions system. Furthermore, disconnecting the battery will NOT rid fault codes. Your statement in a previous post about the evap system being hard to understand, and difficult to diagnose, only qualifies your lack of knowledge of said system, and incorrect and inaccurate clues as to what the problem is only leads the customer down the wrong path.

This person's vehicle has an electrical issue affecting multiple systems. My advice would be to take it into a Volvo dealership, and have it properly diagnosed by a competent technician.

I don't mean to be arrogant, but......let the technicians do the work, and the service managers push pencils.

Dave.

[mrshollysXC]

One More Thing--

The CEL is on constantly--that means only that a qualifing incident has occured. It may be nothing or something; but not earth shattering if the vehicle is performing correctly.

The CEL is blinking--your earth is now shattering--stop the vehicle--evalute the situtation--call for assistance and get the vehilce towed to repair facility.

What do I base this on--8 years as Service Manger at a Dealership.

Thanks for your input. No, the light isn't blinking. It's just on. I just found it really strange that it came on as soon as I left the gas station. All systems were running fine at the time. I did not notice one single thing out of order with the performance. And I'm really picky about my cars. I know when they just don't run well. I have a 1964 VW Beetle that is a show car, and my husband and I both do maintenance on that little puppy...so I know when my car is acting weird.

The fact that it's not acting strange or performing poorly, indicates to me that it is most likely the gas cap issue. My dear husband though, a little panicky...still is insisting on going to the dealer. I have tried to talk him out of that, because I am afraid they will only make things worse. :rolleyes: And, charge us the $100 bucks.

I would like to try the battery cable removal, but dear hubby is all like, "oh, we might mess something up...let's not." So, you know, being the nice wife I am...I'll just let him write the check for the $100 smackers tomorrow. :p

[budrichard]

Driving my 03XC home the first day I got it, the dreaded 'Check Engine' light came on. Went back to dealer next day, salesman took off gas cap and used pen to open the valve at the filler neck and while holding open, stepped on the bumpber and bounced the car, in effect burping the positive pressure out of the gas tank which will cause the 'Check Engine' light to comeon. Try it.
The check engine light really monitors all the emission control sensors and when any one senses a faulty condition the light comes on. Usually perfectly fine to drive with. Good luck.-Dick

[Willy]

I don't know exactly how many "standard runs" the car will need to reset the MIL, not more than a few.
The runs must conform to certain conditions or some specific OBD monitors will not be executed.
A number of errors indicate a condition that can damage parts of the emission reduction system,
such as the catalythic convertor. Driving the car in these conditions may not be a good idea.
Willy

[BLUEH20]

Your are right, Aviator--What could I know?

The loss of vaccum in the evaporative purge system can be from the purge motor, the cap or any of the rubber vaccunm lines or metal tubes or any of teh connections between any of them. The loss of vaccum can also affect other systems that use any vaccum for actuation or control.

Getting all the easy and inexpensive things done yourself both financial and personally rewarding. Since all events happend directly after the refueling and one of the easiest things to do is directly related to accessing and securing the fuel system--I would still get that one out of the way first as there is no indication of any running issue mentioned in any of the post.

Yes, the vaccumn system will set a MIL (malfunction indication lamp). It may be the CEL or dependent on the level of granularity that the vehicle's system will discriminate, a lose gas cap light. And yes, the steady MIL is an indicator or a system out of paramater or out of tolerance--soft, a one time event that will clear on it own after a "given" number of cycles--eg spark plug misfire under heavy acceleration with oxygenated fuel. It may be a hard code, eg--leave the gas cap off--won't clear until corrected. In both cases, the MIL is illuminated and steady and there is no effect on runability nor driveability.

Some things are "dowing gripes" and some are "it flies, you can fix it later". Before we piss on anybody or their food--lets see how this shakes out. I still hope it can be done easily with minimum expense. I do remember how customers hated to have to pay me and my compentent technicians to put their gas cap back on--they did pay and we gladly accepted it.