Bevel Gear Bypass - Pics/Instructions

[8pack]

I have removed and bypassed the bevel gear after doing a bunch of research and talking to folks on here. I have only driven about 25 miles so far, but looks good. Here are some pics/instructions:

I am not going to go through the details of removing the right axle, but simply, remove wheel, brake caliper and hang on spring out of the way, disconnect spindle from strut (some people disconnect control arm from the spindle, I prefer from the strut), Pull hub free, disconnect bearing retainer cap (you don't need to remove the whole bearing retainer from the frame), pull axle from transmission.

Disconnect and remove propshaft-Undo 6 allen bolts at each end of the prop shaft, Remove 2 Screws holding center bearing/carrier, loosen all 4 bolts on exhaust hangar plate, remove screws on passenger side of plate and let it hand down, pull prop shaft free. It may require some taps from a hammer at end end of the propshaft to get it free from bevel gear and Viscous Coupler.

Remove Bevel Gear-5 bolts, 3 are easy, the one on the top closest to the front can be reached with a socket and long extension, the one closest to the rear can be reached with a standard socket and reaching up and around from behind. takes some experimenting but it is actually pretty easy....Bevel gear then needs to be wggled free...put an oil pan under the transmission as fluid will drip out from the seal once the coupler is removed.

You will now have a clear view up to the Turbo return line. I recommend changing the gasket and seal as everything is wide open. Remove 2 tork bots holding the line to the turbo, gently pry other lines aside while pulling return line free, then twist back and forth and pull up to free from the block, replace green seal with orange one and replace paper gasket using some gasket tack to hold it in place.

Reinstall coupler/collar onto tranmission output shaft.

Reinstall axle

NOW put 2 hose clamps coupled together end to end around the axle. See Pic. Make sure the worm gears are as close to exactly opposite each other as possible. I counted the little slots. Tighten to light friction fit, take metal shears and trim off excess metal. now slide clamps up against the coupler. and finish tightening. The hose clamps will keep the couple from sliding off the output shaft. The axle turns about 25% faster than the collar/Transmission output shaft with the collar on it. I have noticed no substantial rubbing so far.

NEXT, if you want to potentially reinstall a bevel gear at a later date you need to ensure the surfaces on the axle and coupler that axle seals spin on are protected from the elements. I wrappped them in a vinyl tape (see link) that sticks to itself and is water proof. See picture. I used F4 self fusing tape. I HIGHLY recommend this stuff, it has tons of uses do some googling on it. I used it as an emergency repair for a torn CV boot and it lasted about 500 miles....
http://www.amazon.com/F4-Tape-Self-f.../dp/B001HETINI

Thats it...If you have questions shoot me a note.....

[cattlecar]

The coupler and drive axle go the same speed if both axles are turning the same speed. With wheels off the ground the axles often don't go same speed so watching it off the ground will produce odd results.

When you remove AWD capability you need to not get too sporty on low traction surfaces as the axle gears and spider gears (AKA as differential pinion gears) have plastic thrust washers on AWD 4 speed gearboxes. The weaker design of thrust washers is due to the AWD never allowing great wheel speed differences. FWD gearboxes have perforated metal thrust washers behind those gears.

[Lokimer]

The coupler and drive axle go the same speed if both axles are turning the same speed. With wheels off the ground the axles often don't go same speed so watching it off the ground will produce odd results.

When you remove AWD capability you need to not get too sporty on low traction surfaces as the axle gears and spider gears (AKA as differential pinion gears) have plastic thrust washers on AWD 4 speed gearboxes. The weaker design of thrust washers is due to the AWD never allowing great wheel speed differences. FWD gearboxes have perforated metal thrust washers behind those gears.

Is it possible then to install said perforated metal thrust washers in the place of the plastic ones?

And well done 8pack.

[cattlecar]

1/2 yes. The pinion gears are curved back on both diffs so the pinion gear thrust washers would be usable but the axle gears on FWD are flat on thrust face but round on AWD.
I guess the bigger problem is the lack of sourcing for the parts as Volvo doesn't sell them.
I have to make thrust washers for my AWD gearbox when I dismantled it and found the plastic thrust washer has broken and some pieces were shredded into plastic particles.

[JRL]

AKA as differential pinion gears) have plastic thrust washers on AWD 4 speed gearboxes.
The weaker design of thrust washers is due to the AWD never allowing great wheel speed differences. FWD gearboxes have perforated metal thrust washers behind those gears.

Really?
You learn something every day. I find this interesting.

One would think they would just use the heavier duty pieces in both trannies, why go cheaper for a 50c part!

[mesaAZ2000XC]

You got it 8pack! good photos!

[bg2128506]

Another retrospect of the same procedure
Angle gear modification

[Stammon]

I read this and go huh?
My 2000 XC70 ruined it's AWD with a rusted spline out of the tranni at 90K. I was stunned. Volvo didn't seal the tranni to right angle drive. No gasket, nothing. I measured the output splines and took a chance. I ordered a NEW right angle drive from Volvo. When my wife got home with it, it had leaked gear fluid all over the back of her Subaru. The box, the bag, the whole thing was a stinky mess. Volvo of Louisville, apologized and sent another pint (?) of fluid for free. Yes, I speak German, I know what "Ohne Oel" means. I installed the drive with the new fluid, replaced the drive shaft bolts in their order, torqued everything, and went on our way. For 28 thousand miles. Then the new gearbox got noisy. I called volvo, and they said no warranty after a year. It was 18 months. I finally got a regional service tech. First he accused me of not using volvo fluid. When I produced the empty bottle, he then said I must have done the job wrong. He refused to believe that my gearbox leaked all over my subaru until i faced him with the empty bottle of oil. He never explained the oil in the unit. I now think Volvo sold me a used part. He "offered" to allow us to bring the car to their Louisville KY dealership, and they would take it apart. If they found I did the job correctly, they might give me some allowance on the new part and labor. Might. FU Louisville Volvo. I was a Mercedes, Volvo mechanic and Shop Manager for over 10 years in the '70's. You do not want to take responsibility for a bad design and a used part. This is Volvo's fault. Period.
I have since learned that the drive gear can loosen and travel, leaving way too much tooth clearance on the drive. I did not take the drive apart, I just pulled the driveshaft, figuring that the crap gearbox could take the no-load conditions and left it. It's been 15 K so far, with no noise or trouble.
I love the car, but would like to hurt volvo, deeply, so they understand they need to be honest, and take care of the older volvo owners, not shine us on in pursuit of new sales. By the way, Volvo, if you read this, understand that most of the mechanics I know wonder why I ever bought one of your cars. You are getting the name of Lemon across the land. Cross Country Lemon. Still love the car, but it is NOT a Mercedes. And I no longer know what a MBZ is anyway, my last MBZ, and the one I drive now is a 1966. Oh I want a '66 volvo. You were a good company then.

[Jeph430]

Any updates on this? Still running with no angle gear installed? It it really necessary to use the hose clamps on the axle? Does this just keep the sleeve from coming off?

[8pack]

I am still running this set up. No problems. You must retain the the sleeve. If you don't, it will slide out and the transmission will leak fluid and be exposed to the elements where the output spline exits.....