How much play in your top motor mount?

[gibbons]

When chasing a clunk in the front end of my car, I replaced all 5 motor mount with genuine Volvo parts. That was 10k miles ago. And after all the work to do the mounts, the problem persisted.

Anyhooo... I've replaced the top mount a couple of times. This "new" one seems to have LOT of back/forth travel. I am wondering if I got bad one? Check out the travel I'm getting, and I do not drive this car aggressively. Look OK? Thanks for opinions!

[8pack]

Is it supposed to be a video?

I also have a clunk in the front end I can't identify and it has been there awhile and makes me crazy. I replaced all my shocks, seats, springs etc. about 10k miles ago as I thought it was something related there, but it has nor gone away. My endlinks etc. seem to be fine. My top mount has quite a bit of play and I replaced it awhile ago and it has a lot of play then...I think it is defective as the earlier round version did not have that much play even when worn. I have been toying with strapping in a piece of fuel line to take up some of the slack and see if that gets rid of it....

[Rabid Koala]

I think that I am now on top mount #3 in 40,000 miles. They just don't last very long. My first replacement was a Hutchinson, followed by a $20 cheapie on Rock Auto. They both lasted about the same time/mileage. This time I bought a Hutchinson, also a urethane insert that was on sale for $10. That insert didn't stay on my car for more than an hour, good thing I bought the Hutchinson with it. The combination of a new top and bottom torque mount have got it running pretty nice right now. My other mounts are fairly recent, too.

[howardc64]

On those square top mounts, the cross shaped rubber rubs against the alloy frame. The constant rubbing eats away at the rubber and gap increases with more play. Here are some pics

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...4715#post84715

Instead of getting a new mount, I jammed an ~ 1/8" piece of industrial duty rubber in the gap and it never popped out.

The gap and movement tolerance on this mount design is clearly not very precise so inserting something to take up the slack is probably fine.

[Xfingers]

In my round upper mount (old style), the rubber insert was worn and had broken away from the metal. I filled the gaps with a few strips of cut up bicycle tire. I never got around to ordering a new mount. Everything's held together fine with no adverse affects and no clunks when decelerating. I also used the dorman's fix for the trans mount. Anytime anyone's looked in my engine bay they point to my mcgivered upper mount and say "What's that?"

[gibbons]

Thanks everyone! Based on feedback, I'm going to stuff (compress) fuel line in the gaps unless I can find some good high durometer rubber rod at McMaster.

[sjonnie]

I think that I am now on top mount #3 in 40,000 miles. They just don't last very long. My first replacement was a Hutchinson, followed by a $20 cheapie on Rock Auto. They both lasted about the same time/mileage. This time I bought a Hutchinson, also a urethane insert that was on sale for $10. That insert didn't stay on my car for more than an hour, good thing I bought the Hutchinson with it. The combination of a new top and bottom torque mount have got it running pretty nice right now. My other mounts are fairly recent, too.

The only good top mount is the poly mount from IPD, installed mine over 6 years ago and haven't touched it since.

[Astro14]

The only good top mount is the poly mount from IPD, installed mine over 6 years ago and haven't touched it since.

While it’s durable, I removed the poly top mount from my T5. It created a very noticeable increase in vibration.

Now, perhaps the lower mounts were tired at the time, and that made the NVH worse, but I didn’t like it. I’ve gone with regular mounts since. And no, they don’t last.

It’s still in my garage. Gibbons, I’ll send it to you if you want it. Seriously. PM me.

I really like the poly lower mount from IPD, they’ve held up well and I can’t feel any NVH.