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Thread: Aw55/50sn.l need some advice please help?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Virginia Beach
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    Quote Originally Posted by dejanaleksov View Post
    So my Vb should be early type A letter or no letter right?there are many Gm dealerships,and I have some friends, in them.I'll ask for Pn 24228787 thats the gm oe number I suppose and ac Delco is making the part for them?
    You're correct. Should be either an A letter or no letter. 2001 was a no letter. Both my 2002 are an A letter.
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    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  2. #22

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    What do you guys think about the life span on this transmission,am I by the end of the life of the box,in terms of clutch wear/burned, internal wear,etc...??? 135k miles first d&f, 3 d&f in total and after that one flush from cooler return line in 140k miles? Has the damage been done?

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Northeast
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    Quote Originally Posted by dejanaleksov View Post
    Can u please explain what mistakes you have done, so I dont make the same mistakes?
    I bought a new GM valvebody. I believe it was a type B, my original VB was a type A or maybe blank. As Astro has indicated, to make a B valvebody compatible with a trans which had an original A valvebody, the S5 solenoid has to be swapped over and a spring needs to be removed from the back cover of the new valve body. Also, your existing wiring will have to be spliced/lengthened to reach the location of one or more of the solenoid connections on the new VB, which are in a slightly different location.

    The irreversible mistake for me was that after the install, I still had low pressure. The car was taking a few seconds to engage after shifting into Drive and still going into Limp Mode so I adjusted the pressure on the SLT solenoid. After driving for about 10 minutes, I lost the Reverse gear! Reinstalled valvebody a few times, put old VB back in, replaced clutch packs...nothing worked. If you're installing a NEW replacement valve body, there's probly no reason to be making adjustments to the pressure solenoids. I'm guessing everything is adjusted correctly at the factory.

    The reason I had low pressure after the install was because one of the washers at the back of the transmission case had fallen out while mating up the new valve body. You're absolutely supposed to lube these in place (petroleum jelly) before installing the VB, which I did, but then I removed the new VB to lengthen the wiring. (Actually, you can splice the wires with the VB in place, no need to take it out). I didn't think to re-lube the washers and one of them must have gotten knocked out when re-installing the VB the second time. For me, mating the new VB with all the holes for the screws was a little tricky. I jiggled and shifted it around a bit and that probly knocked out the washer.

    I suspected my low pressure situation was because either my SLT solenoid needed adjustment or one of the washers in the back of the trans case had fallen out. Well, since it was a little less effort to pop off the transmission cover and rotate the SLT six clicks than to lift the whole valve body out to see if a washer was missing, I figured I'd try adjusting the SLT first. This was the "irreversible mistake".

    I've probably done the procedure for r&r the valve body as much as anyone but I'm hesitant to give too much advice because I f*'d the repair.
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  4. #24

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    Wow.i get the picture:-( . Thanks for sharing your experience.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Yeah, those O-rings are tricky! I removed the new VB just to check that the jelly is able to keep them in place during installation. The VB is attached to the transmission's case under such an angle that you have to keep it firmly with one hand while trying to secure it with bolts the with the other hand. And the VB is not lightweight. Make sure all the bolts and tools are in reach before you place the VB into transmission.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  6. #26
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    Mar 2005
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    In my experience (did this job 2x following Astro14's directions), 2 people to reinstall the VB helps greatly. One person to orient parts from the bottom while the other secure connectors/bolts from the top. For example, VB cover will have anaerobic sealant on it during reinstall and want to avoid smearing it. This job was a lot easier with someone supporting the cover from the bottom while a person on top guiding it in around the extruded VB.

    I had no problem with the o-rings. Perhaps 2 people was helpful here as well. Person on top can see the o-ring until the very last second before the VB covers it. Person below can hold the VB firmly while top person secure it with a few bolts.
    Past Volvos : 01 V70 T5, 01/02 V70XC, 02 V70 NA, 00 V70XC
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  7. #27

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    Howard nice to meet you, I learned a lot from your freeweb howardsvolvos,greetings. �� Do u guys think that the damage is alredy done by your opinion... 135 k miles first D&F after 300 miles another and after 300 another d&f 3 in total... Drove it for 5k miles and a complete flush with 13-14litres of Mobil 3309? I'm now driving the same Mobil atf for 5k miles and its starting to shift weird when hot only?should I invest in sonnax (probably my choice) Vb or the damage is done on the transmission?
    Last edited by dejanaleksov; 07-22-2019 at 11:46 AM.

  8. #28
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    Feb 2013
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    Boston, MA
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    Quote Originally Posted by howardc64 View Post
    In my experience (did this job 2x following Astro14's directions), 2 people to reinstall the VB helps greatly. One person to orient parts from the bottom while the other secure connectors/bolts from the top. For example, VB cover will have anaerobic sealant on it during reinstall and want to avoid smearing it. This job was a lot easier with someone supporting the cover from the bottom while a person on top guiding it in around the extruded VB.

    I had no problem with the o-rings. Perhaps 2 people was helpful here as well. Person on top can see the o-ring until the very last second before the VB covers it. Person below can hold the VB firmly while top person secure it with a few bolts.
    Ugh... We get drunk quicker than able to finish the work that requires two pair of hands =)

    Also Nissan uses a regular gasket for AF23/33 vs sealant in Volvo's AW55. I got a Transtec B11548 gasket and it worked fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by dejanaleksov View Post
    Howard nice to meet you, I learned a lot from your freeweb howardsvolvos,greetings. �� Do u guys think that the damage is alredy done by your opinion... 135 k miles first D&F after 300 miles another and after 300 another d&f... Drove it for 5k miles and a complete flush with 13-14litres of Mobil 3309? I'm now driving this Mobil atf for 5k miles and its starting to shift weird when hot only?should I invest in sonnax (probably my choice) Vb or the damage is done on the transmission?
    From mechanical point of view, late AW55 is nearly perfect automatic transmission built for many years and miles to come. Valve body has wear points, though. This is what a transmission rebuilder with 20+ years of experience says whom I know personally.

    Volvo's AW55 often (most of time?) has harsh shifts when flushed with Mobil. Volvo's 1161540/640 has a higher viscosity and more friction modifiers than Mobil has.

    1-3 oz of Lubegard HFM may be your remedy.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
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    Posts
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    I would add HFM, external ATF cooler and Magnefine filter or some other reputable magnetic inline filter first. Maybe flush it once again, now with Toyota Type-IV or Idemitsu Type-TLS.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    I bought a new GM valvebody. I believe it was a type B, my original VB was a type A or maybe blank. As Astro has indicated, to make a B valvebody compatible with a trans which had an original A valvebody, the S5 solenoid has to be swapped over and a spring needs to be removed from the back cover of the new valve body. Also, your existing wiring will have to be spliced/lengthened to reach the location of one or more of the solenoid connections on the new VB, which are in a slightly different location.

    The irreversible mistake for me was that after the install, I still had low pressure. The car was taking a few seconds to engage after shifting into Drive and still going into Limp Mode so I adjusted the pressure on the SLT solenoid. After driving for about 10 minutes, I lost the Reverse gear! Reinstalled valvebody a few times, put old VB back in, replaced clutch packs...nothing worked. If you're installing a NEW replacement valve body, there's probly no reason to be making adjustments to the pressure solenoids. I'm guessing everything is adjusted correctly at the factory.

    The reason I had low pressure after the install was because one of the washers at the back of the transmission case had fallen out while mating up the new valve body. You're absolutely supposed to lube these in place (petroleum jelly) before installing the VB, which I did, but then I removed the new VB to lengthen the wiring. (Actually, you can splice the wires with the VB in place, no need to take it out). I didn't think to re-lube the washers and one of them must have gotten knocked out when re-installing the VB the second time. For me, mating the new VB with all the holes for the screws was a little tricky. I jiggled and shifted it around a bit and that probly knocked out the washer.

    I suspected my low pressure situation was because either my SLT solenoid needed adjustment or one of the washers in the back of the trans case had fallen out. Well, since it was a little less effort to pop off the transmission cover and rotate the SLT six clicks than to lift the whole valve body out to see if a washer was missing, I figured I'd try adjusting the SLT first. This was the "irreversible mistake".

    I've probably done the procedure for r&r the valve body as much as anyone but I'm hesitant to give too much advice because I f*'d the repair.
    I thought I get the picture,but after reading your thread I finally got the picture. Awesome thread,beautifully explained about every step,plus the astro tutorial should be doable, but its quite a job,and it requires (special) skills and $, and I still dont know where I'm at...even the Hfm lubegard isn't available in this ****y country of mine.i will order the HFM lubegard and wait for delivery about a month.in the meantime I'll install the magnefine filtet and the external cooler, which I should measure the amount of atf it collects,an add the measured amount with the filter,cooler and hosses...for now...and try collect more info on vb costs and options. Anyway thanks guys really thanks
    Last edited by dejanaleksov; 07-25-2019 at 03:23 PM.

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