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Thread: Aw55/50sn.l need some advice please help?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Landenberg, PA
    Posts
    208

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    Quote Originally Posted by dejanaleksov View Post
    Astro14 u r the main reason why I didn't sell the car 3 years ago when I bought it...you and oragex,vti, made In Japan,abstracte,Howard and many others helped me on maintaining this car and getting her in order. And the order list for parts was long...Immediately after buying I changed the atf and all was good with the box,so I decided to change every part thats faulty and bringing her in order... And she worked flawless.until this hot summer here in Europe +40c.And now my biggest nightmare came true the gearbox/ valve body... When I saw the gearbox and valve body complexity on you tube I was white like a ghost:-) to me it looked like an open heart surgery,and the guy dismantled the transmission only with one screwdriver :-) I removed the splashguard yesterday and the bolts on the box valve body pan were rusted and looked like I cant even make them loose ( never tried to unbolt them) dont have vida btw... I go to dealership for the vida they dont charge me they are my friends,but not very helpful friends, because they dont know the gearbox never worked on transmissions.So again astro u are giving me the courage to do a complex valve body maintenance but I'm not too sure in my self doing it...thank you very much guys for the help,but I dont know what to do? This weekend im planing to d&f once again and put a in-line magnefine and atf cooler and see from there on? Wtf ???
    If that's your garage, you can do it!!


    2005 XC70 - 50/35 Tint, Yakima Rack

  2. #12

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    That's a MOT station thats were I work,as an MOT tehnician I have the knowledge for cars but only theoretical, I dont have mechanical experience... And that valve body its not mehanics its more like robotics to me...so I'm really scared even touching it...no spare parts for volvo in my country, nobody drives a volvo and nobody goes to the dealership.there are only five xc70 in my country/almost 2 milion cars

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,769

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    I had your same problem nearly 10 years ago. The Volvo dealer quoted me $6,200.00 to replace the transmission. I couldn't afford that. So, I bought the ATRA rebuilder's manual for the transmission, researched valve body rebuilders, called around, subscribed to an on-line service information vendor, and dived in.

    When I got done, I realized that lots of folks were likely to have this problem, and I wrote up that guide.

    It's still under the resources section. Procedure hasn't changed, but the availability of parts and rebuilders certainly has. Please take a look. Seriously. IF you're having trouble downloading it, PM me your email address, and I will send it to you directly.

    Simply: drain the fluid, raise the engine about 50mm, pull down the subframe, remove the cover (9 bolts), remove the body (about 10 bolts, and 8 electrical connectors) and installation is the reverse of removal. It's not hard. It's time consuming. You'll need a transverse engine lift, or some way to raise the engine a bit to get enough clearance to get the cover off.

    I forgot to add the new sealing rings in my cost list. Add $6 from your dealer or favorite on-line genuine parts supplier.

    I've done this three times: on the XC, then on the '02 T5, and then on the '01 T5 that is now my son's car. The first two I had rebuilt. Easy, peasy. No modifications needed.

    IF you get yours rebuilt, it's not crazy expensive, at least, not in North America.

    The third time, I bought a new body on Amazon, and made the changes (S5 solenoid swap, wiring mod, spring removal) and, honestly, it shifts great.

    Swapping the solenoid over is simple: one bolt. Removing the B5 spring is easy, two bolts. Lengthening the wire is easy, a couple of crimp connectors (make certain that they're oil-resistant). There are a couple of threads on this.

    Now, when you're done, you'll have to drive the adaption cycle. This requires a VIDA unit to put the transmission in adapt mode. I describe this in the guide. First two times, I had the dealer do it for me, so add $75 for that (my dealer has now raised his prices on that kind of thing to ridiculous, and I have my own VIDA, so...).

    Given the other stuff you've done on your car, I think that this is well within your capabilities.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Rugby UK
    Posts
    366

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    Give it a go and dont be so b**** pessimistic.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,118

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    VB is certainly doable. It looks scary and lengthy when reading Astro14's step by step manual, but you can do it in one weekend even with no prior experience. I put a Sonnax valve body, they fixed all the design problems with the original VB and give a lifetime warranty. New GM VB is also a good choice, however keep in mind it will develop a wear in the same spots in 100-150k miles. But it is $200-300 cheaper.

    Honestly, those rusted torx bolts will be the hardest part...
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60

  6. #16

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    Astro14 can you please confirm if this is your tutorial for the valve body...?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20190718_204235.JPG  

  7. #17

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    Thanks vtl for the honesty on the rusted bolts:-) so my options are new sonax valve body.or new gm valve body and swapping the solenoids from mine to the gm body?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,769

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    That looks like my write-up. I sent you the whole document via e-mail.

    Only ONE solenoid needs to be swapped from a GM body - the S5. There are five gear solenoids, and three big solenoids. On the GM (and Nissan, too, I think) the S5 is normally on, and on the Volvo, the S5 is normally off. The top of the solenoid is different, so that ONE solenoid has to be swapped. It's not a big deal. The rest of the new solenoids from your new GM body stay installed.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (76K)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  9. #19

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    So my Vb should be early type A letter or no letter right?there are many Gm dealerships,and I have some friends, in them.I'll ask for Pn 24228787 thats the gm oe number I suppose and ac Delco is making the part for them?

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    My 02 transmission shifted fine until the ATF warmed up to around 60C as read by my VIDA/DiCE unit. Then I would get terrible bangs making the car undriveable.
    The problem in my case was a worn valve body. I made a couple of irreversible mistakes trying to replace it with a new one but many members have done the repair successfully.

    There's a good tutorial by Astro14 in the Resources section of this site. I'd provide the link but for some reason it doesn't want to open for me. (Is this a problem that the moderators should investigate?)
    Can u please explain what mistakes you have done, so I dont make the same mistakes?

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