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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    513

    Default

    Ramps leave the work area clear to do the work, jack stands get Volvo's nervous and they might refuse to let you crawl under them, LOL! Really?
    Last edited by AKAMick; 05-01-2019 at 04:29 PM.
    Current Junk: Couple of worthless rusty old clapped out Volvo bricks, XC70's 02, 04 & Countless P.O.S's, Rust buckets, Junk cars,( 50W Oily cesspool Sludge) Stolen and other assorted rubbish cars, 1928 Jed Clampett Tourer, (8 hole cast iron lump, original rust and decay, 40W Straight Bacon Grease),

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    35

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    So I did it all as prescribed, and weird **** is going on ! Firstly I think this job had been done before. I don't think the old o rings were 18 years old and I didn't come across a single seized bolt. The oil pick up screen had a couple of bits of debris but wasn't clogged. However the oil light still flashes at me. The symptoms are a bit more consistent. The oil light and message flick on for less than a second when i do a low speed sharp right turn, pulling into a side street or parking lot. Any ideas WTF can cause that ?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    584

    Default

    It may or may not be related but I did a quick review of the posts on this thread and a little surprised none of us thought to mention this:
    Do you know the condition of your PCV system?
    You can get a basic idea by removing the cap and putting a rubber glove over the oil filler on the crankcase. When you start the engine, you should get a little suction. If the glove inflates, you've got a plug somewhere and will need to replace PCV asap to avoid blowing cam seals and losing your oil. For some, doing the PCV service includes dropping the oil pan and cleaning out engine block passages!
    What is the mileage on your car? If it's 120k or more and the PCV hasn't been replaced...
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,118

    Default

    First - since you say the sump is now clean, and o-rings are in good shape, I’m going to presume that the pickup is OK.

    The next guess: is the light accurate? Since it happens in sharp turns, I’m going to, again, presume, that the light is accurate. Ordinarily, I would say to put a good gauge on it (this is still a prudent check, but I think a gauge will reveal normal idle pressure).

    What I think is happening: oil quantity in the sump is low when the engine is running. Hard turns slosh the oil away fro the pickup, starving the pump. You are doing damage every time this light comes on.

    You say the oil level is good. What’s the difference between level immediately after shut down, and after sitting for five minutes? Plugged/sludged oil passages and returns could cause oil to be trapped in the head while running and the level to be low in the sump.

    I generally advise against additives and flushes.

    However, in your case, I would check that level immediately after shutdown, and if it’s very low initially, but comes up eventually, you may have plugged oil returns. In which case, I would try something like this:

    https://products.liqui-moly.com/engi...sh-plus-3.html

    Available on Amazon. Follow the directions on the can.

    Use a good quality synthetic afterwards, change it more often to continue cleaning up this engine internally.

    For more discussion on oil see this from a few years back: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...19629-Oil-Rant

    And yes, do a complete PCV system replacement.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Cumbria, UK. Maine USA.
    Posts
    513

    Default

    Since you think the pan has been dropped before, are the pan baffles still in place and complete?, was the pickup sealed and tight to the crankcase?.Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by AKAMick; 05-07-2019 at 11:55 AM.
    Current Junk: Couple of worthless rusty old clapped out Volvo bricks, XC70's 02, 04 & Countless P.O.S's, Rust buckets, Junk cars,( 50W Oily cesspool Sludge) Stolen and other assorted rubbish cars, 1928 Jed Clampett Tourer, (8 hole cast iron lump, original rust and decay, 40W Straight Bacon Grease),

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AKAMick View Post
    Since you think the pan has been dropped before, are the pan baffles still in place and complete?, was the pickup sealed and tight to the crankcase?.
    I THINK so, the pick up wasn't loose, apart from that I didn't look at it that closely ( kicking self )

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    It may or may not be related but I did a quick review of the posts on this thread and a little surprised none of us thought to mention this:
    Do you know the condition of your PCV system?
    You can get a basic idea by removing the cap and putting a rubber glove over the oil filler on the crankcase. When you start the engine, you should get a little suction. If the glove inflates, you've got a plug somewhere and will need to replace PCV asap to avoid blowing cam seals and losing your oil. For some, doing the PCV service includes dropping the oil pan and cleaning out engine block passages!
    What is the mileage on your car? If it's 120k or more and the PCV hasn't been replaced...
    Did the rubber glove test all good !

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    It may or may not be related but I did a quick review of the posts on this thread and a little surprised none of us thought to mention this:
    Do you know the condition of your PCV system?
    You can get a basic idea by removing the cap and putting a rubber glove over the oil filler on the crankcase. When you start the engine, you should get a little suction. If the glove inflates, you've got a plug somewhere and will need to replace PCV asap to avoid blowing cam seals and losing your oil. For some, doing the PCV service includes dropping the oil pan and cleaning out engine block passages!
    What is the mileage on your car? If it's 120k or more and the PCV hasn't been replaced...
    Did the rubber glove test all good ! Car has 97K.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    First - since you say the sump is now clean, and o-rings are in good shape, I’m going to presume that the pickup is OK.

    The next guess: is the light accurate? Since it happens in sharp turns, I’m going to, again, presume, that the light is accurate. Ordinarily, I would say to put a good gauge on it (this is still a prudent check, but I think a gauge will reveal normal idle pressure).

    What I think is happening: oil quantity in the sump is low when the engine is running. Hard turns slosh the oil away fro the pickup, starving the pump. You are doing damage every time this light comes on.

    You say the oil level is good. What’s the difference between level immediately after shut down, and after sitting for five minutes? Plugged/sludged oil passages and returns could cause oil to be trapped in the head while running and the level to be low in the sump.

    I generally advise against additives and flushes.

    However, in your case, I would check that level immediately after shutdown, and if it’s very low initially, but comes up eventually, you may have plugged oil returns. In which case, I would try something like this:

    https://products.liqui-moly.com/engi...sh-plus-3.html

    Available on Amazon. Follow the directions on the can.

    Use a good quality synthetic afterwards, change it more often to continue cleaning up this engine internally.

    For more discussion on oil see this from a few years back: http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showth...19629-Oil-Rant

    And yes, do a complete PCV system replacement.
    Thanks, the oil level check right after shut down sounds like a great idea, I hadn't thought of that. I'm getting a new sensor tomorrow. My gut says it won't make a difference, and I don't usually like to randomly replace parts, but this is less than $10.

    I will keep you all posted. Thank you all so much.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,420

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BenF View Post
    So I did it all as prescribed, and weird **** is going on ! The oil pick up screen had a couple of bits of debris but wasn't clogged. However the oil light still flashes at me. The symptoms are a bit more consistent. The oil light and message flick on for less than a second when i do a low speed sharp right turn, pulling into a side street or parking lot.
    Was the oil pickup tube plastic or metal? I learned after a couple of neverlefts, where we would clean the sludge out of the pan and reinstall the original metal pickup tube - the light would still flash - replacing the tube with the new style plastic pickup tube fixed the flashing oil pressure light. After that every car we de-sludged got a new pickup tube also.

    Or if the light flashes in a sharp right turn - are you sure you put 6.5 quarts of oil back in? And is the oil level still ok?

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