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Thread: Drivers side axle shaft stuck in place

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    224

    Default Drivers side axle shaft stuck in place

    The inner CV on my 01 after 210K split. Trying to get to get it out has not been fun. Pry bars, cold chisels, turn and try again... rented the CV puller and slide hammer from Autozone (does not fit in between the CV and transmission). Any advice on what to attempt next?

  2. #2

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    Seriously though - I've run into this before and it turned into a pry bar battle to the death.
    Try spraying some PB Blaster etc in there and keep at it.
    Maybe someone will have some insight more technical but............

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Virginia Beach
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    PB’laster is garbage. First, best change you can make to your garage is throw it in the trash. That’s where it belongs. The best is Kroil. From Kano Labs. Buy it direct from them, or on Amazon.

    That said, no penetrant is going to help because there is a seal in between the outside and the rusty guts where the snap ring is stuck. Don’t bother. The seal works. Spray all you like, whatever you like and it will still be dry and rusty where the snap ring sits.

    I just did this job three weeks ago on a 240,000 mile car.

    Hit it harder.

    Seriously.

    Cold chisel has the right angle. None of the commercial tools worked. My cold chisel didn’t fit as well as I would’ve like, so I bought a wood chisel and ground the edge off. You can try prying. I had no luck with prying. If you DO pry, pry so that the fulcrum is towards the outside of the seal, where the casing is thicker and away from the seal.

    I spent two hours trying to get mine out. Had I a bigger hammer, it would’ve gone more quickly, but I was constrained by the amount of room and the ability to get in a good, hard swing.

    The new one will go in so easily, you’ll think it’s not working right...
    Last edited by Astro14; 03-14-2019 at 08:27 AM.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Contis, Mobil 1 0W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  4. #4

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    So yeah - thats not entirely true - but personal perception can mean more than reality sometimes -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

    Real world test with real results and PB returned results almost identical to your Kroil

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Maine USA. Cumbria UK
    Posts
    437

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by AutosDirectFlorida View Post
    So yeah - thats not entirely true - but personal perception can mean more than reality sometimes -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

    Real world test with real results and PB returned results almost identical to your Kroil
    My personal experience is any lubricant is better than no lubricant, tried them all at one time or another, the last brand used gets the credit, but did the first brand start the process? those test results show the good old "Liquid Wrench" to be the most cost effective, thanks for that link.
    Last edited by AKAMick; 03-14-2019 at 07:04 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Virginia Beach
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    3,709

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    Quote Originally Posted by AutosDirectFlorida View Post
    So yeah - thats not entirely true - but personal perception can mean more than reality sometimes -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs

    Real world test with real results and PB returned results almost identical to your Kroil
    I work on cars in the real world. Very poor experience with PBílaster.

    Iíve seen this guyís videos before. I like his methodology. Interesting. But he is doing two applications over three hours, and I rarely have that much time. I wonder if the time allowed made a difference.

    I buy Kroil in the metal can, not aerosol, so itís much less.

    Also, Iíve had good luck with Liquid wrench, starting over 40 years ago...so, I understand that result.

    But the bottom line, it wonít do any good on an axle. So, it doesnít help the OP.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Contis, Mobil 1 0W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,082

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    I've had great luck with Deep Creep. Seems the only penetrant that will work here in this salt air.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-119K mi to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-290K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '98 V70-gone @390k kms
    '91 744GL-killed by son @ 220K kms
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    '90 744T w/Turbo Plus-killed by son @260K mi
    '78 245-killed by wife @166K mi
    '76 265-gas hog gone
    And other misc. Euro stuff

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Northern CA
    Posts
    224

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    Cold chisel has the right angle. None of the commercial tools worked. My cold chisel didn’t fit as well as I would’ve like, so I bought a wood chisel and ground the edge off. You can try prying. I had no luck with prying. If you DO pry, pry so that the fulcrum is towards the outside of the seal, where the casing is thicker and away from the seal.

    The new one will go in so easily, you’ll think it’s not working right...
    It is finally out! I ended up using 3 Irwin cold chisels. Taking your advice at one point had all three so far in it was a real fight to get them out. They way I was pounding went against my better senses.... Then turned the axle 90% and still the same. Did it again. They way I was pounding went against my better senses.... This time drove only the 7/8" and got it stuck real good. Trying to get it out I was beating on it transversely (in line with crank), I was hitting it pretty hard with a 5 lb sledge when all of a sudden "ping" it let loose. I was so scared I had cracked the transmission case..... I still could not pull it 100% by hand due to the rust, but now had the space to get the pickle fork Autozone slide hammer where it needed to be. This job really should not be as difficult as it was. So, glad it is out and the new one slid right in!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,709

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    Scared me too.

    But a few years ago, after an experience like yours, only without success, I gave up on the driver side axle on my FWD V70 and took it in to our local Volvo dealer.

    Talked with the mechanic who did the work. He said, “Cold chisel. Nothing else works. You have to hit it REALLY hard”. When I asked about breaking the case, he said, “haven’t broken one yet”
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Contis, Mobil 1 0W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Levittown, PA, USA
    Posts
    134

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    Going on memory here. Had the same thing happen with ours. Rented the slide hammer and it didn't fit between case and CV. Ended up welding 2 large nuts to the CV, then welded a piece of flat stock with a hole to the nuts, threaded the slide hammer into another nut behind flat stock and after about 5 firm slides it came off. Lucky I have a little mig welder that works decently.
    "01" XC70, Light Blue, Saddle Leather, no 3rd seat, wife's ride.
    "99" Dodge Ram 2500 P/U, QC, 4X4, 8' bed, Cummins, Auto, tweaked a wee bit-522rwhp/998rwtq - my toy.

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