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Thread: Timing belt question

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Default Timing belt question

    I know the timing belt replacement interval is 105k from Volvo, IPDís website was recommending every 70k. I also saw the a trusted member here recommended doing one at around 7 years if you havenít hit the mileage requirement yet. I had mine replaced at 90-95k miles on our car quite a few years ago, (trying to find the date but I bet is was at least 7). Iíve now got 175k miles on the car and sheís starting to show some wear under the hood and I feel like the timing belt replacement should be one item on the list. Any thought or suggestions?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrsurfguy View Post
    Iíve now got 175k miles on the car and sheís starting to show some wear under the hood and I feel like the timing belt replacement should be one item on the list. Any thought or suggestions?
    For an engine with that many miles you would want to do a bunch of extra stuff during the belt replacement if you planned to drive it for a long time. Personally if the belt is in good condition and tensioned properly (take the cover off and look) no leaks, bearings are all good (hopefully replaced @ 95k), and water pump not noisy/leaking - I would wait until the 90+105k mark to replace the belt. - At that time I would replace the water pump (factory brand only) and of critical importance - the PCV system needs to breathe properly - in fact if you are looking for something to do I would bet the PCV system is clogged or partially so. 100% of the engines I have seen with that many miles have at least a partially obstructed PCV system. And I'm in the SE where the PCV systems don't seem to clog up as easily. (maybe lack of cold weather)

  3. #3
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    Thanks, we did the PCV system last year. I'm thinking of just pulling the trigger on the timing belt as there is an oil leak somewhere down in the area of the water pump. My mechanic was saying he was just going to get the NAPA timing belt kit as that's what he's used in the past. Hoonk your saying that might not be the best idea? I usually use IPD but since someone else was going to do the work I was going to let him get the parts.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by xrsurfguy View Post
    there is an oil leak somewhere down in the area of the water pump.
    get the NAPA timing belt kit
    Oil leaks in the area of the water pump usually come from exhaust cam seal or VVT gear. Unless oil is leaking from the oil cap seal, filling the top of the head and leaking down the front of the engine. Front seal leaks are usually because the PCV system is not breathing properly. Sometimes people don't replace the banjo bolt or the warming tube under the intake manifold that gets clogged during pcv cleaning/replacement. And sometimes the oil drain to the pan gets clogged (and not noticed when pcv box is off) which requires oil pan removal to clean that out.

    The factory brand water pump (aisin) is available aftermarket and is the only brand i would use. I have seen many other brands of aftermarket water pump bearings fail, seize, and cause bent valves.
    Last edited by hoonk; 11-29-2018 at 08:34 AM.

  5. #5
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    May 2015
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    I had that leak at the exhaust VVT pulley, too much in and out play. I agree about the Aisin brand water pump, mine had the Volvo name ground of of it and was approximately half the price. This is no place to put an inferior product.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabid Koala View Post
    I had that leak at the exhaust VVT pulley, too much in and out play. I agree about the Aisin brand water pump, mine had the Volvo name ground of of it and was approximately half the price. This is no place to put an inferior product.
    Just an additional warning on water pumps. DO NOT use any that have composite impellers. OEM-spec pumps, as is Aisin, have metal impellers.

    The reason I mention it is that this past summer I lost the impeller on the pump in my R. Apparently the PO had had the pump replaced early (80K miles) when he had a timing belt replacement done by a local shop. They had gotten the parts from NAPA and the pump was a NAPA-labelled pump that was stated to be OEM spec. Not sure how it occurred, high revs maybe, but it looked like one blade might have come off and then took the others with it. Car would indicate an overheat condition, boil out the coolant, but otherwise run great (within a mile or so). Took me a bit to figure out because at 120K I figured the car still had the original pump and after 9 Volvos over the years I had never had an OEM-spec pump fail. Additionally, the car had no other indications of a catastrophic engine failure that would cause it to overheat.

    Anyway, use ONLY OEM-spec pumps with metal impellers.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-119K mi to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-290K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '98 V70-gone @390k kms
    '91 744GL-killed by son @ 220K kms
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    '90 744T w/Turbo Plus-killed by son @260K mi
    '78 245-killed by wife @166K mi
    '76 265-gas hog gone
    And other misc. Euro stuff

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoonk View Post
    The factory brand water pump (aisin) is available aftermarket and is the only brand i would use. I have seen many other brands of aftermarket water pump bearings fail, seize, and cause bent valves.
    Just pulled the timing belt off to find the source of a leak on the front of the engine and it's the damm water pump. It's an Aisin WPV-800 that I installed 60K miles ago. Bearing is shot.

  8. #8
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    Feb 2005
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    maryland, usa
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    my 04 had exhaust cam leak back in 150k (it has 190k now), while I was replacing the VVT gear, I should have replaced the intake VVT gear at the same time. it turn out both were leaking. The original leak was caused by the infamous PCV...

    With the oil leak, it ruin the lower control arm bushing and engine mount rubber as well. So you probably want to fix those sooner than later...

    Even my XC70 gave me good opportunity to learn to fix things up, it just has had too much problems... I am done with Volvo brand for now ;-)
    '03 Volvo V70 (totaled by rear ended)
    '04 Volvo XC70 (brought off Ebay for replacement)
    '02 BMW 325i (fun drive)
    '98 BMW F650 (funride)
    '08 Toyota Sienna (family cruiser)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjonnie View Post
    Just pulled the timing belt off to find the source of a leak on the front of the engine and it's the damm water pump. It's an Aisin WPV-800 that I installed 60K miles ago. Bearing is shot.
    Surprising.

    I've got a couple of Aisin pumps on my cars and have had zero issues.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Contis, Mobil 1 0W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjonnie View Post
    Just pulled the timing belt off to find the source of a leak on the front of the engine and it's the damm water pump. It's an Aisin WPV-800 that I installed 60K miles ago. Bearing is shot.

    When you remove it can you upload a picture with it? I'd like to see if it's stamped Aisin with the date inside the small circle. It is not impossible for an Aisin to go bad - although rare. Another thing that can happen is it wasn't a real Aisin but placed in an Aisin box (may happen with some sellers off Internet). But if it was a real one that is a good warning for us.

    For the original poster, replacing the belt is not that a big expense on these cars, it all comes to whether you're thinking at keeping it for another 2-3 years or not. The original timing belt could last easily 100000+ miles but the aftermarket ones may have weaker components and I would check them at 60000 miles then every 20000 miles or so. Just don't go with cheaper kits, Continental is the best bet, then Gates may or may not be good at some components (perhaps check the reviews on Amazon on several of their kits and look for the 1 start reviews)

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