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Thread: Wandering steering

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,034

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    Astro, any difficultly removing the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckle? I wanted to check the condition of my inner/outer tie rods on my 2002 but couldn't break them loose.
    I use my impact wrench after squirting the area with Deep Creep and have never had the upright end of the tie rod not release. Getting the inners out of the rack has also not been much of an issue using a smallish pipe wrench. Where I have issues typically is getting the outer and inners separated at the adjustment thread as that connection nearly always seizes despite liberal uses of Cu-based anti-seize.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-118K mi to-date
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    '78 245-killed by wife @166K mi
    '76 265-gas hog gone
    And other misc. Euro stuff

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    414

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    Thanks, Bill. I'm debating whether I should get an impact wrench. I need to change the haldex oil in my 07 but the 13mm bolt won't break loose with an 18" breaker bar. I used PB Blaster AND acetone+ATF. These impact wrenches can deliver a lot more torque? I gotta do some research.
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,034

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    Thanks, Bill. I'm debating whether I should get an impact wrench. I need to change the haldex oil in my 07 but the 13mm bolt won't break loose with an 18" breaker bar. I used PB Blaster AND acetone+ATF. These impact wrenches can deliver a lot more torque? I gotta do some research.
    Not sure I'd take my 1/2 drive impact to the Haldex but for suspension fittings they work pretty good. Especially in my salt air heavy environment when even anti-seize only works so far. Mine is spec'd to go to 400 ft/lbs on tightening not sure what kind of force it puts on in reverse. Now with all of that, I also have to recommend Deep Creep (made by the same folks as SeaFoam). It far outperforms PB or Liquid Wrench. Not sure what it is made of but it works nearly 100% of the time regardless of how gnarly the rust has become. I'd be screwed here without it.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-118K mi to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-270K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '98 V70-gone @390k kms
    '91 744GL-killed by son @ 220K kms
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    '90 744T w/Turbo Plus-killed by son @260K mi
    '78 245-killed by wife @166K mi
    '76 265-gas hog gone
    And other misc. Euro stuff

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,639

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    My best air impact (I've got four) is an Ingersoll Rand titanium 2135. Cost me about $350. Has up to 780 ft lbs.

    I bought it specifically for breaking loose something that my IR 231 (a classic, and my recommendation as a first air tool) couldn't loosen.

    I've also got a compact Air Cat, 3/8". Fits anywhere. Goes to 400 ft lbs.

    I don't know how I lived without air tools. If you go the air tool route, get some decent impact sockets, both deep and regular (there are places where you need one or the other) and some impact extensions. You're going to break a regular socket with those tools. Even an air ratchet needs impact sockets.

    Always, always, always wear eye protection. Stuff breaks under impact and sometimes bits of metal flying under tremendous force. At my age, I have safety glasses with a 2.0 reader insert. So helpful.

    That said, I wouldn't just use an impact on your 13mm bolt. You'll break it off if you hammer it. Then, you've got the bolt fragment stuck in the housing. At which point, you'll probably just have to replace the whole Haldex...

    Heat, penetrating oil, shock cooling, a bit of impact. Then repeat.

    Once it loosens, stop, tighten it a bit, loosen again. More oil. More heat.

    Good luck.

    If you do Tie Rod ends, get an inner tie rod end tool. It basically clamps onto the inner Tie Rod like a pipe wrench. Then you use a socket extension and long handle. The threaded fitting of the inner Rod is right next to the rack, where a pipe wrench won't fit very well

    You could use a pipe wrench, I think, if you turn the steering completely, but you're going to put a ton of torque on the rack, so I prefer to have the rack closer to the middle, so it's better supported.
    Last edited by Astro14; 10-15-2018 at 05:32 PM.
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  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    414

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    Once again I have to thank you guys for great advice.
    The Deep Creep won't cost me much so I'll give that a try first. There is electrical circuitry around the Haldex unit so I guess I better be careful if I decide to apply heat. I like the idea of trying to break the bolt free thru expansion/contraction with hot/cold treatment.
    I was thinking of trying an indy Volvo garage and having them change the Haldex oil but it sounds like they're gonna have the same issue with the rusted bolt. According to you guys, it's not a matter of just applying enough brute force. That could result in breaking off the head of the bolt. Thanks!
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

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