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Thread: Wandering steering

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    5

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    The Indy didn't focus on the loose steering, they just focused on the torque steer and fixed the AWD. I didn't bother going back to them because I am suspicious of them, as they initially told me only the angle gear sleeve needed to be fixed.

    I have booked an appointment at the dealership tomorrow for a diagnosis, I don't have a hoist or the mechanical know-how to do the things you guys are suggesting, such as checking the rack or u-joints.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    780

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    Purchasing a car out-of-warranty is only recommended if you know cars, but owning one with more than 100,000 miles is best if you are a DYI guy. Else...

    How are the engine mounts at the subframe -- subframe bushing? Is the bracket properly fastened -- bolts etc.?
    2001 V70XC - Nautic Blue/ 2-tone Sand/ Premium/ Instant MPG 12 - 63/ Pirelli P4 12/32" - 740/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Zimmerman Z-coated/ Akebono/ 190K-mi/ Great Lakes

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    3,691

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    Quote Originally Posted by billr99 View Post
    That's interesting. The roads are pretty much crap up here (claimed to be the worst in Canada) and on all my P2s, I've only ever had to replace one set of outers (and only one of those was all that bad). But I go thru inners on a fairly routine basis usually replacing at least one per year. Always use Lemforder but I also run 0 toe. Wonder if that has an effect on the life of the inners?

    Cheers,

    Bill
    I had so many inners and outers replaced during our annual inspection that I have absolutely no idea what brands were used. Probably NAPA. Every year the car gets safety inspected. And it seemed that every year, I was throwing a new tie rod on it.

    I finally gave up, and during the last suspension refresh, replaced all 4 tie rods. Then got it aligned. I should be good for a couple of years now...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (100K, Michelin AS3+, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (238K, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Contis, Mobil 1 0W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    5

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    Update 3:
    Took to dealership, they said the inner tie rods were installed in a way where they were unequal length. So they said this was causing the steering rack to be off center, and causing looseness in the steering.
    They took out the inner tie rods, centered the steering rack and reinstalled them and then re-did the 4 wheel alignment.
    Results : steering is much better. It is ACCEPTABLE but not even close to the nice tightness compared to my 2003 e class. I guess I will have to make do with this. I have spent $2000 now on just front end suspension parts and labour. This all feels terribly bittersweet.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,069

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    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    I had so many inners and outers replaced during our annual inspection that I have absolutely no idea what brands were used. Probably NAPA. Every year the car gets safety inspected. And it seemed that every year, I was throwing a new tie rod on it.

    I finally gave up, and during the last suspension refresh, replaced all 4 tie rods. Then got it aligned. I should be good for a couple of years now...
    I hear you! Of all the cars I've had including 200, 700, 800 series and S/V Volvos, P2s seem to have a weakness in the design of the tierods, specifically in the ball-and-socket in the inners. Since I've had P2s, I've replaced more tierods, again mostly inners, then all the other 40+ cars I've had combined. And that includes a couple of modified street cars that I also used to stage rally back in the day. Don't know if the ball-and-socket is undersized for the load or if the specified metallurgy is just not the right hardness. Its nuts considering the reputation of the marque, but I guess we have to live with it as long as we have these things.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-119K mi to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-290K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '98 V70-gone @390k kms
    '91 744GL-killed by son @ 220K kms
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    '90 744T w/Turbo Plus-killed by son @260K mi
    '78 245-killed by wife @166K mi
    '76 265-gas hog gone
    And other misc. Euro stuff

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Portugal
    Posts
    8

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    Quote Originally Posted by billr99 View Post
    I hear you! Of all the cars I've had including 200, 700, 800 series and S/V Volvos, P2s seem to have a weakness in the design of the tierods, specifically in the ball-and-socket in the inners. Since I've had P2s, I've replaced more tierods, again mostly inners, then all the other 40+ cars I've had combined. And that includes a couple of modified street cars that I also used to stage rally back in the day. Don't know if the ball-and-socket is undersized for the load or if the specified metallurgy is just not the right hardness. Its nuts considering the reputation of the marque, but I guess we have to live with it as long as we have these things.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    The trouble, with mass produced parts is heat treatment, most are case hardened, or carburised, and that leaves only a relatively thin hard case/surface.
    That case/surface then wear over a "known" rate, once that is exceeded, the part will wear faster until it fails.

    To change the design, is possible, but it's going to be very expensive, and the resultant new parts will be significantly more expensive for the end user.

    Most ties rods are drop forged, which produces a pretty tough part, but it's cheap, compared to machined parts.
    It's perfectly possible to produce a machined tie rod, which exceeds the original spec, but the question is... Is it cost effective to do so?
    Unless it is no one will make anything better...

    At the end of the day, the only people who are happy, are the bean counters...
    2003, Volvo XC70, 2.4 D5
    2011, Volvo S40, 1.6 D
    1989, Toyota Landcruiser HJ60, 4.0 D
    1980, Honda CM200T, 200cc Parallel twin...

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