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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    Astro, any difficultly removing the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckle? I wanted to check the condition of my inner/outer tie rods on my 2002 but couldn't break them loose.
    I use my impact wrench after squirting the area with Deep Creep and have never had the upright end of the tie rod not release. Getting the inners out of the rack has also not been much of an issue using a smallish pipe wrench. Where I have issues typically is getting the outer and inners separated at the adjustment thread as that connection nearly always seizes despite liberal uses of Cu-based anti-seize.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    584

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    Thanks, Bill. I'm debating whether I should get an impact wrench. I need to change the haldex oil in my 07 but the 13mm bolt won't break loose with an 18" breaker bar. I used PB Blaster AND acetone+ATF. These impact wrenches can deliver a lot more torque? I gotta do some research.
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

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    Quote Originally Posted by Xfingers View Post
    Thanks, Bill. I'm debating whether I should get an impact wrench. I need to change the haldex oil in my 07 but the 13mm bolt won't break loose with an 18" breaker bar. I used PB Blaster AND acetone+ATF. These impact wrenches can deliver a lot more torque? I gotta do some research.
    Not sure I'd take my 1/2 drive impact to the Haldex but for suspension fittings they work pretty good. Especially in my salt air heavy environment when even anti-seize only works so far. Mine is spec'd to go to 400 ft/lbs on tightening not sure what kind of force it puts on in reverse. Now with all of that, I also have to recommend Deep Creep (made by the same folks as SeaFoam). It far outperforms PB or Liquid Wrench. Not sure what it is made of but it works nearly 100% of the time regardless of how gnarly the rust has become. I'd be screwed here without it.

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    My best air impact (I've got four) is an Ingersoll Rand titanium 2135. Cost me about $350. Has up to 780 ft lbs.

    I bought it specifically for breaking loose something that my IR 231 (a classic, and my recommendation as a first air tool) couldn't loosen.

    I've also got a compact Air Cat, 3/8". Fits anywhere. Goes to 400 ft lbs.

    I don't know how I lived without air tools. If you go the air tool route, get some decent impact sockets, both deep and regular (there are places where you need one or the other) and some impact extensions. You're going to break a regular socket with those tools. Even an air ratchet needs impact sockets.

    Always, always, always wear eye protection. Stuff breaks under impact and sometimes bits of metal flying under tremendous force. At my age, I have safety glasses with a 2.0 reader insert. So helpful.

    That said, I wouldn't just use an impact on your 13mm bolt. You'll break it off if you hammer it. Then, you've got the bolt fragment stuck in the housing. At which point, you'll probably just have to replace the whole Haldex...

    Heat, penetrating oil, shock cooling, a bit of impact. Then repeat.

    Once it loosens, stop, tighten it a bit, loosen again. More oil. More heat.

    Good luck.

    If you do Tie Rod ends, get an inner tie rod end tool. It basically clamps onto the inner Tie Rod like a pipe wrench. Then you use a socket extension and long handle. The threaded fitting of the inner Rod is right next to the rack, where a pipe wrench won't fit very well

    You could use a pipe wrench, I think, if you turn the steering completely, but you're going to put a ton of torque on the rack, so I prefer to have the rack closer to the middle, so it's better supported.
    Last edited by Astro14; 10-15-2018 at 05:32 PM.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    584

    Default

    Once again I have to thank you guys for great advice.
    The Deep Creep won't cost me much so I'll give that a try first. There is electrical circuitry around the Haldex unit so I guess I better be careful if I decide to apply heat. I like the idea of trying to break the bolt free thru expansion/contraction with hot/cold treatment.
    I was thinking of trying an indy Volvo garage and having them change the Haldex oil but it sounds like they're gonna have the same issue with the rusted bolt. According to you guys, it's not a matter of just applying enough brute force. That could result in breaking off the head of the bolt. Thanks!
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Update re: loose steering 2007 xc70 170k
    1) got the AWD system fixed, cost me $1200 at an Indy (angle gear sleeve, aoc pump, a sensor, awd oil)
    2) got both inner tie rods changed and 4 wheel alignment

    Results: So, drive did improve with AWD (no more torque steer) but the steering is still loose despite changing the inner tie rods!!!!
    What am I missing guys? I have had the lower control arms, ball joints done 2 weeks ago too but no improvement despite all of these.
    In addition, work by previous owner:
    Strut seats were changed 30k ago
    Outer tie rods were done 90k ago
    Power steering rack was replaced 100k ago

    Please help!!! What else am I missing???

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Boston, MA
    Posts
    1,196

    Default

    Raise the front, get under the car, ask somebody to slowly turn the steering wheel left-right. Do you hear anything? You may have bad u-joint in steering wheel shaft, or play in rack itself. For latter there's a 17 mm nut on the rack where it connects with the shaft, you can tighten a bit, 4 marks maximum. Pretty easy to do, just cut 1/2" 17 mm socket from both ends so it would fit under the sway bar.
    2002 V70 (sold)
    2005 XC70 (Telos Road took it. Did a chassis swap)
    2016 XC60 (sold, P.O.S.)

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Northeast
    Posts
    584

    Default

    The indy shop where you got your AWD fixed. Why do they think the steering's loose? Did they check it out?
    2007 XC70, 206,000 miles
    2002 V70XC, 130,000 miles, parts car

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ahsan1 View Post
    Update re: loose steering 2007 xc70 170k
    1) got the AWD system fixed, cost me $1200 at an Indy (angle gear sleeve, aoc pump, a sensor, awd oil)
    2) got both inner tie rods changed and 4 wheel alignment

    Results: So, drive did improve with AWD (no more torque steer) but the steering is still loose despite changing the inner tie rods!!!!
    What am I missing guys? I have had the lower control arms, ball joints done 2 weeks ago too but no improvement despite all of these.
    In addition, work by previous owner:
    Strut seats were changed 30k ago
    Outer tie rods were done 90k ago
    Power steering rack was replaced 100k ago

    Please help!!! What else am I missing???
    90K is a long time for outer tie rods. I’ve gone through two or three sets of outer tie rods on the XC...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Western Head, Nova Scotia
    Posts
    3,089

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Astro14 View Post
    90K is a long time for outer tie rods. I’ve gone through two or three sets of outer tie rods on the XC...
    That's interesting. The roads are pretty much crap up here (claimed to be the worst in Canada) and on all my P2s, I've only ever had to replace one set of outers (and only one of those was all that bad). But I go thru inners on a fairly routine basis usually replacing at least one per year. Always use Lemforder but I also run 0 toe. Wonder if that has an effect on the life of the inners?

    Cheers,

    Bill
    Western Head, NS CDN

    '08 BMW 750i (Black Sapphire)-204K kms to-date
    '05 XC70 (Lava Sand)-296K kms to-date
    '02 V70XC-gone @393K kms
    '05 V70R (Magic Blue)-120K mi to-date - gone
    '96 854R (Red)-real CDN-spec 5-speed R - gone @270k kms
    And other Volvos and misc. Euro stuff

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