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Thread: Hard shifting into drive

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Seattle, Washington
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    6

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    all of the above for shifting into drive. Most often after the car has just started, but ill shift into drive, it will hesitate for 2-3 seconds, and then there will be a harsh engagement and the car will jerk forward. only does this in drive, and is most prominent when the car has just been turned on.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by sumner_nick View Post
    Both front axles have been replaced over the past 50k miles (car only has 131k). these repairs were not done while I had the car.
    Understood - just know that if they didnt use OEM or otherwise highly recommended substitutes, axles still should be considered. I've used generic axles on Subarus etc that have the same symptoms without issue, but this freaking Volvo just doesnt like cheap axles

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Seattle, Washington
    Posts
    6

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    Quote Originally Posted by AKAMick View Post
    Check for a broken spring on the low side, tip breaks at the spring seat area, not always easy to see it. ATF over the hot fill line is too much,
    I will drain the ATF and refill to the correct level sometime in the next few days and report back.

    I did not see/feel any broken areas of the spring. Any other problems areas I could look for? Thanks for the help.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    Getting the level correct isn't easy. It's about 200ml between the low and high on the dipstick and there are two ranges (cold and hot). Far more accurate when read hot. So, dead-level ground, idling, after a twenty minute drive is best.

    But, if you're going to change the fluid (and I would, it's just good PM), then use a JWS-3309 fluid. Lots of choices, Toyota T-IV, Mobil 3309. I've had good results with Valvoline Import Multivehicle synthetic. It says it meets all the specs, and the transmission has been shifting smooth.

    If you do a drain and fill, and add 3.5 qts, you will be close to the correct level. It might take a few hundred ml to bring it up to correct level, but you won't be overfilled.

    So, that's my recommendation: drain it, add 3.5, and see where you are in both level and shift quality.

    Once you get the transmission figured out, we can go on to the other questions...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (96K, Michelin AS3, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (233K, AltiMax RT43, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Contis, Mobil 1 0W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  5. #15

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    Out of curiosity - I have a mitivac and was considering trying to drain it that way then refilling vs removing the line and flushing 2qts at a time - Have you ever done it this way?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
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    3,633

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    Quote Originally Posted by AutosDirectFlorida View Post
    Out of curiosity - I have a mitivac and was considering trying to drain it that way then refilling vs removing the line and flushing 2qts at a time - Have you ever done it this way?
    No. I wouldn't.

    Easier to simply drain and fill.

    The trans holds about 8 quarts. When you flush it, which is really just pumping old fluid out with the transmission pump, you use 12-14 quarts and get 100% of the fluid.

    New fluid goes into the dipstick tube, and fills the pan where the pickup for the pump is located. It moves new fluid through the whole trans. You can't do more than 2 quarts at a time because the pump pickup sucks air at about 2.5 quarts.

    That's not good for the pump.

    When you drain it, via the drain plug, you remove about 3.75 quarts, at the low point in the transmission. When you then fill it, you're getting about half the fluid changed.

    Your mityvac down the dipstick tube is going to get maybe 2 quarts before it sucks air. So, you've done, what, maybe 1/4?

    Why bother...
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (96K, Michelin AS3, M1 0W40)
    2002 V70-XC (233K, AltiMax RT43, Castrol Edge 0W40)
    2002 V70-T5 (195K, IPD bars, Bilsteins, Contis, Mobil 1 0W30)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  7. #17

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    Excellent point and thank you for the detailed response.......

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