POP from front end

[daver1100rt]

03 XC70, I'm hearing a sharp "POP" sound when I start from a stop with the wheel turned. Not every time, but often. I think it makes the same sound whether I'm turning left or right. I've had other cars with worn out axles (driveshafts) seems like it's more of a grinding kinda noise and not a "POP". Does that sound like an axle problem?

I don't have the bucks to buy a factory Volvo axle, I could buy an aftermarket axle or a used OEM (with no boot tears). Which would be better I wonder. Dave

[Astro14]

Outer CV joint. Absolutely the symptoms of impending failure.

Aftermarket axles are all cheap and not worth the money. They are all rebuilds and they all suck.

A GKN axle from a company like FCP Euro, AutohausAZ, or Pelican will be considerably more than the aftermarket, yet about half of the cost of new Volvo axles and they are first-rate quality.

Get a GKN and put it in right away. If the joint is popping, it's about to break, which will leave you stranded...

[daver1100rt]

Ok, got it. Do you have any links to a diy replacement procedure? How do i determine which side is the problem? I think its the passenger side but not sure. Dave

[Astro14]

From the resources section:

http://www.volvoxc.com/wp-content/up...XCFrontEnd.pdf

http://www.volvoxc.com/0/resources/h...-replacing.pdf

Usually, you can hear the pop as coming from one side or the other. Once the car is up - look for a torn boot. The joints usually last until the boot cracks and the grease gets out. IF your boots are intact, then it's time to inspect the steering rack and tie rod ends as there is a chance that your pop is a loose suspension or steering, not drivetrain, component.

Simply: Jack and support the car, remove the wheel(s). Unbolt the axle bolt. To remove the driveshaft (axle), you'll have to unbolt the knuckle from the front control arm. That gains you enough clearance to pull the axle splines out of the hub. Pull it from the hub, pull it from the transmission, put the new one in...Volvo charges an hour labor to do the job...

I would break the axle bolt free while the car is on the ground (but you can hold the brake disc easily enough), because it's on there pretty tight...

VIDA has you unbolt the balljoint, because the balljoint will seat back into the control arm precisely, no chance of alignment issues. However, to pry the control arm down to release the balljoint stud from the control arm takes considerable force. VIDA recommends a ratcheting strap, I use a 4 foot crowbar. Others have had success with unbolting the strut/knuckle bolts. Easy to reach, easy to move the knuckle free, but you're messing with the alignment, so it has to go back on EXACTLY as it came off, or your alignment will be off. Some have recommended unbolting the balljoint from the bottom of the knuckle, and I really can't condone that - they're a press fit, with very high torque on the bolts and I would leave that critically important junction alone.

To free the axle from the transmission will probably be easy on the passenger side: undo the two bolts that hold the bearing to the back of the engine block and slide it free from the angle gear. Be careful not to damage the oil seal on the angle gear.

On the driver side, it will likely be a serious PITA. You're going to use a wedge to pop the axle free from the transmission. It's complicated by years of rust and an internal snap ring that has become bonded to the transmission splines. I've tried the "axle removal tool" sold by various vendors. They don't work. A big cold chisel is what the Volvo mechanics use (I've been successful once, and once, I took it to the dealer). Big chisel, big hammer, fingers crossed.

With the axle out, put your new one in. I grease the splines, particularly the hub splines, for the future. Reconnect the knuckle to the suspension (depending on method used to disconnect).

When you tighten the axle bolt, do that with the wheel back on and the car on the ground. You need a good torque wrench and a NEW axle bolt. Tighten the bolt to 35NM, then tighten another 90 degrees. It's going to feel like it's about to snap...what you're doing is stretching that bolt so that the axle will stay engaged with the hub splines under all conditions. That's why you need a new bolt...

Read more here:
https://www.ipdusa.com/techtips/1018...h-it-s-a-thing

[daver1100rt]

Astro- thanks for the assistance. I just went out and gave it a look, The driver's side inner boot looks kinda dirty- like old fashioned blow-by, but doesnt look greasy drivers outer looks fine, no grease. The passenger side outer joint looks dry, but the inner joint looks like there's grease gooped around the engine mount. Have only owned the car since last September, 155k miles, I dont know if either of the axles are originals or not.

Seems to me if the inner joint has dried up and failed, I wouldnt just hear that "pop" when turning..... Dave

[v70+xc70]

You definitely want to fix that. Otherwise the pop will be joined by snap and crackle..... then that sickening crunching sound.....