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Thread: Noise from power steering pump/water pump/???

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
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    Massachusetts
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    Default Noise from power steering pump/water pump/???

    Our relatively new-to-us 2010 XC70 T6 with 104k miles has developed a noise coming from the drive belt area and I'm trying to determine its exact cause. It sounds like a bad bearing and I just replaced the tensioner and idler pulley since they appeared to have some wobble in them when I started investigating the noise, but this did not help. My next thought is either the water pump or the power steering pump but I'd like to figure out which one is most likely making the noise before I blindly replace both of them. Is there a way to determine which one (or neither) is making the noise? I tried listening to both closely with a tube up to my ear and the other end near each component but with no luck. When I had everything out of the way for the idler pulley I turned the power steering pump by hand and it seemed like there was an unusual noise but I can't be certain it is the cause of the noise I am hearing when the car is running.

    If it does indeed need a new power steering pump, water pump, or both, what are the best options in terms of cost and reliability? I see genuine Volvo remanufactured power steering pumps going for over $500 online and Cardone remanufactured for significantly less.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    GA
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    Have seen many bad water pumps on the 3.2 engines. Either just leaking, leaking with bad (noisy) bearings, and seized water pumps. Cars with as little as 64000 miles, Thank you FOMOCO! Power steering pumps are a rare failure in all cars - maybe because all their moving parts are soaked in oil all the time.

  3. #3
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    May 2012
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    Calgary, Alberta
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    Use a mechanics stethoscope on the suspect components or a longer screw driver/solid metal rod held on the component and solidly to your ear. This will give you a better idea of the noise source.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
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    Ontario, Canada
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    I was faced with the same noise last winter and prepared to have it serviced, but the noise disappeared. Figuring that it would definitely return, I found an original Volvo water pump on eBay, bought a generic serpentine belt, then following a high pressure power steering leak, decided to replace the power steering pump and the idler mechanism. The power steering pump is identical (FoMoCo) as used on the Land Rover so I bought a new pump through eBay significantly less than what you're found.

    I am preparing to install all of these components over the next few weeks. Last year, when sourcing a new water pump at a non-Volvo shop, I was totally surprised to hear they wanted to charge me $1,500 Canadian, plus labour and fluids. Let us know how you make out.

  5. #5
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    Sep 2009
    Location
    Massachusetts
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    It was the water pump. It started leaking a few days ago and I just finished replacing it today with a Volvo pump from the dealer. Not a difficult job but there are a few hard to reach bolts that slowed things down. VIDA shows to take off the accessory belt but that procedure involves taking off more than is needed unless you're actually changing the belt along with the water pump. I did have to take off the high pressure tube to the power steering pump in order to move it enough to gain access. VIDA was unclear about whether that tube gets removed since it doesn't show it removed but during reassembly it does give a torque spec for tightening the nut.

    Thanks everyone for your input!

  6. #6
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    Jan 2013
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    Ontario, Canada
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    Thank you for the update. I did get delayed, but have just started to do essentially the same procedure. I did respond to your PM but don't know if you received my further questions. Just in case, or if anyone can respond:

    1. Do I need to loosen the AC compressor to install the serpentine belt?

    2. Is the tensioner attached to the bottom of the AC pump frame? Can it be easily removed?

    3. On my 2008, the hood release cable runs through the battery box. Can this cable be easily removed? Otherwise I've tried to move the battery box out of the way.

    As an observation, the placement of these components does not seem to have considered the DIY mechanic. Was this done deliberately or is this symptomatic of FoMoCo designs? I'll be replacing the high pressure power steering hose, running parallel to the oil pan, just close enough to the splash pan to be affected by winter road salt - another FoMoCo annoyance.

  7. #7
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    Sep 2009
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    Massachusetts
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    Thanks for the note here in the forum. I have to take a look at my settings because I get an email when someone replies to this thread but not when I have a PM. Based on my experience, limited as it is, I'll answer best I can.

    1. Although I didn't replace the serpentine belt (I probably should have but figured I had another 44k miles until it was due) I did have to loosen the AC compressor in order to reach the tensioner. It comes off fairly easily and you can swing it out of the way to give you more room. Just be careful to remove the clamp/clip that attaches the two AC hoses to the engine before you swing it out of the way.

    2. The tensioner is indeed attached to the AC pump frame under where the pump sits. Once the AC pump is out of the way it is very easy to access and remove the bolt.

    3. On my 2010, the battery box front comes off and the hood release cable runs through a rubber grommet that is attached to the body of the battery box right where the front is attached. If you pop off the front of the box the rubber piece comes right off. When putting it back together, I found it easier to put the body of the battery box on first and then attach the front, making sure it snaps into place onto the body of the box.

    As for your observation about the placement of things - I'm not sure because I haven't done similar work on my 1998 V70 so it's hard to compare. To me, it seems easier to work on my later model Volvos as I find some of the things that were hard on my 98 are much easier on my 2006 S40 and 2010 XC70. I think it might be an artifact of the small sample size I have to work with!

    Good luck with your work, and I'll be sure to check more often for PMs. EDIT - Just found and changed my settings so I receive an email when I get a PM.

  8. #8
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    Jan 2013
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    Ontario, Canada
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    Thanks for confirming the tensioner removal since I did note you had replaced it prior to doing the water pump. I just went out to the garage and you are absolutely correct - there are tabs on the front of my battery box, so now that it's removed, I have more working space for today's work.

    My previous XCs were 1999, 2001 and 2004 that were all on lease and never required the same amount of service as on this purchased car. My mechanical comparisons include a '53 PV444. '60 Amazon-S, including daily drivers (544, 122, 140, 240, 740) and a yet to be restored '71 1800-E Coupe. Due to the large number of FoMoCo stampings on our XC's parts, I maybe unfairly blame that era on these peculiar designs that I sometimes think were deliberately made to thwart us?

    I spent most of yesterday afternoon just getting the screws off the battery box. Battery acid, mixed with our winter road salt actually started to corrode the 8mm bolt heads on the 3 rearmost bolts, forcing me to find an Imperial sized socket smaller than 8mm & larger than 7mm. Needless to say, I'll replace them with stainless steel bolts and use anti seize compound. I think the acid/salt mixture also dripped onto the body of the power steering pump as you can see.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks again and if this snow subsides and I get the garage warmed up, I'll start to tackle the rest.
    Last edited by CVOLVO; 12-17-2016 at 06:20 AM. Reason: confirmed tabs on battery box

  9. #9
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    Jan 2013
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    Ontario, Canada
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    Default Power Steering Removal Question

    I have a disassembly question if anyone can help.

    Do I need to remove those T25 screws from the power steering pulley before pulling it off the water pump? I slacked off the serpentine belt and have all the screws removed from the power steering pump - the 2 bottom ones are loose. Will this pull off the spring mechanism without breaking anything?

    Thank you.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
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    Massachusetts
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    I don't know if it is required, but I did remove those screws. They come off very easily and you just have to rotate the pulley to get to each one. I imagine you could pull the pump off without undoing those screws and without breaking anything but it might be difficult to maneuver the pump out of the way if you want to change the water pump.

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