So posted about a flat tow earlier and wanted to say thank you for all the information. Also I recently lost the teeth on the bevel gear inside the transfer case :-( . On a brighter note the job was easier than expected. There are some tricks to getting out the angle gear that might help. On the top two bolts mounting the transfer case to the transmission whichch are 12mm with a 10" extension and a wobble or universal it will do the trick just have patience. The cv axel nut was the hardest to get loose. Used an electric MAKITA 1" impact can buy one for about 125$ used online, it works great! Removed the ball joint collar with a jack under the ball joint with slight pressure pull the bolt out before they will separate! Move the jack to the wheel hub and raise it till it's even with the driveline. Small sledge to knock it loose and a pry bar for the rest. Lower the jack and pull the cv out and move the hub assembly out of the way. Don't forget the two 12mm bolts holding on the cv bearing. I just pulled the transfer case by hand it was light enough if you can lift 50 lbs under a car. Separated the case and removed the rear worm gear or angle gear correct me if I have these backwards im new to awd. Used a vice and impacted the nut loose, small sledge to knock off the u joint connection, a punch to knock out the bearing race and bearing. I didn't want to block off any passages so I used a 3" hole saw on 1/4 aluminum plate and beveled it to match as close to the opening in the rear as possible. I welded it with a MILLER MATIC heat 2 wire speed 50 and cleaned up with a grinder it looks like it was built that way. Filled the case with 2 quarts standard SAE80w-90 CAR QUEST gear lube checked for leaks and reinstalled in reverse torqued to HAYNES MANUAL spec. WILL LET YOU KNOW IF ANYTHING IS OFF BALANCE IN THE DRIVELINE OR ANY OTHER PROBLEMS OCCUR. NOTE WHEN THE TRANSFERCASE IS OUT THE TURBO AND ALL THE LINES ARE EASIEST TO GET TO! REPLACE IF THEY LEAK!!!!!