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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    SC
    Posts
    144

    Default

    Picked it up today and he did not mention a code. Probably did not check I guess. Anyway, it is running great. He did say there was another plug loose so I suspect the dealership did not properly
    install the new plugs when the coils were changed a while back. The ticking noise I've been hearing for months was due to the loose plugs. I've never heard of plugs doing this so lesson learned.
    Could have possibly saved almost $700 if I had checked them earlier.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    Threads were pretty loaded up with carbon on the T5 when I first did the plugs at 90K....bought the car with 72K... Made getting them accurately tight a challenge. I spent the few extra minutes per cylinder to run a tap through the threads to clean them. It was a bit challenging because the plug wells are so deep, but it really made a difference. Prior to the tap, I could barely hand turn the plugs in...and they felt gritty while doing it. After the tap, smooth and easy, just like they should be. I doubt a professional mechanic would take the time for that extra step, they're on the clock, but my time is my own....
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    91

    Default

    Astro14, how did you clean out the particles from the cylinders when you were done?

    QUOTE=Astro14;172562]Threads were pretty loaded up with carbon on the T5 when I first did the plugs at 90K....bought the car with 72K... Made getting them accurately tight a challenge. I spent the few extra minutes per cylinder to run a tap through the threads to clean them. It was a bit challenging because the plug wells are so deep, but it really made a difference. Prior to the tap, I could barely hand turn the plugs in...and they felt gritty while doing it. After the tap, smooth and easy, just like they should be. I doubt a professional mechanic would take the time for that extra step, they're on the clock, but my time is my own....[/QUOTE]

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    GA
    Posts
    1,420

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by men2be View Post
    Astro14, how did you clean out the particles from the cylinders when you were done?
    Can't answer for him but I put grease on the tap and sometimes have to clean and regrease the tap several times for each hole. That catches most of the shavings. Compressed air and a prayer after that.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Northshore - Great Lakes
    Posts
    813

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hoonk View Post
    Can't answer for him but I put grease on the tap and sometimes have to clean and regrease the tap several times for each hole. That catches most of the shavings. Compressed air and a prayer after that.
    I replaced the spark-plugs around the holidays. All were hard to turn, but #2 gave me the sweat. Nervous, I slowly unscrewed it all.
    I suspected the black stuff were crumbled/melted wire-loom. Each thread was coated with black stuff.

    Nonetheless, after throughly cleaning one spark-plug's thread, used this spark-plug to thread and unthread till most were cleared and off using light-coat of engine oil while continuously running the shop-vac. Finally sucking it all up with a narrow-long fitting over the shop-vac hose.

    I have replaced all wire looms under the cover and engine with 1/4" and 3/8" since. I am running on original set of coil, but, will replace this Fall.
    Last edited by Xheart; 04-28-2014 at 06:32 AM.
    2001 V70XC +204k miles/ XeMODeX/ Pirelli 12/32"/ Duracell 48/ MOBIL-3309/ Pennzoil EURO 5W-40/ Great Lakes

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Pretoria, South Africa
    Posts
    318

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by atbspinner View Post
    Found out from the mechanic today that the #4 spark plug got blown out and stripped the threads.
    The question of course is why it did this? I would not be comfortable to just fix the "symptom" without also understanding and fixing the root cause ...
    Pierre

    2016 V40 D4 AT
    2010 XC60 3.0T AT
    2004 Mazda Miata 1.8 - My new toy and restoration project ... Not everything you do in life has to be rational!

    Gone: 2015 V40 D3 AT, 2002 V70XC 2.4T AT, 2007 S60 2.5T Manual, 2004 S60 2.0T Manual, 1996 850 GLT Manual

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    4,116

    Default

    I used a tap to clean the carbon from the threads. Screwing a plug in will simply compress the carbon onto the threads. I hit each cylinder with the shop vac to pull out as much loose material as possible. I specifically avoided grease so I wouldn't contaminate the threads with it, but a bit of carbon in the cylinder isn't going to hurt anything...

    Now, if I was drilling metal, or creating metal shavings, I would absolutely use the old grease trick!
    Last edited by Astro14; 04-28-2014 at 06:36 AM.
    Current Fleet:
    2016 Tundra Crewmax 4WD 1794
    2005 MB S600 (126K, Michelin AS4, HPL 0W40)
    2005 MB SL600 (55K Michelin AS4, Mobil 1 0W40)
    2004 V70R (143K, six speed M66, HPL 5W40)
    2004 XC90 (235K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-XC (295K, HPL 0W30 Euro)
    2002 V70-T5 (225K, IPD bars, Bilsteins)
    2001 V70-T5 (125K, IPD downpipe, cat back and other mods)
    1932 Packard Sedan (straight 8, dual sidemounts, original paint and interior, Shell Rotella 15W40)

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